WINTER POLISH EXPEDITION
up to the challenge
need you very much¦ - says Krzysztof Wielicki to Vassiliy Pivtsov.
Photo by ©
Pivtsov , the alpinist from Kazakhstan, has left the expedition
today for family reasons. His climbing partner and fellow countryman
Denis Urubko has set off in the opposite direction - to set himself
against the slope of K2. Together with Piotr Morawski and Marcin
Kaczkan, they will try to reach the destroyed camp II.
day before, Gia Tortladze and his companion Ilias Tukhvatullin
from Uzbekistan left the expedition. Krzysztof Wielicki, the head
of the expedition, commented on this as follows: "I think
that the decision to escape was caused by a lack of winter experience.
After 20 days during which he could not climb above camp I, Tortladze
noticed that there was no place for him here and simply gave up.
This surprised me all the more, because the alpinists from the
East were usually very obliging, they would help others, almost
selflessly identifying themselves with the expedition.
this case, his own interest turned out to be the most important
factor. His ambition did not allow Gia to come to me and talk. He'd
rather burden the team with his individual problem. He manipulated
the people. It's most unusual to leave in the middle of an expedition
to which you have been invited. It seems to me that it was better
for him to leave, though, since during such a difficult expedition
it's easy to antagonize others with defeatism, to stress the impossibility
of the undertaking, to frighten. Winter in the highest mountains
requires patience. Gia and his companion were simply not up to the
farewell. Gia Tortladze and Ilias Tukhvatullin are ready to
leave the base. Photo by ©
Pawlikowski is trying to fix the tent at camp II (6600 m). The
tent has been destroyed badly by the wind.
Photo - Dariusz Zaluski.
head of the expedition asked Gia Tortladze, who was at the intermediate
base, through the radiotelephone to leave two down suits for the
young Polish mountaineers, who until now have been busy transporting
the expedition's equipment to the main base and are now taking over
some of the work on the slope. The Georgian refused to return the
suits, which he had received along with other equipment from the
K2 Winter Expedition, explaining that he is going to need them for...
the next expedition in Tien-Shan, where he is just about to go.
He will try to reach the summit of the 7000er Peak Pobieda, and
right afterwards in the spring Manaslu, an 8000er, in an expedition
led by the Polish alpinist Piotr Pustelnik.
weather forecasts we keep receiving from Pakistan are coming true,
but are unfortunately very unfavorable. The strong winds, the
clouds and the snowstorms that plague us constantly are still
to be part of our everyday life. At present, we are able to see
K2 once a week. Usually, it is shrouded in mist. It was visible
yesterday. Denis Urubko, Piotr Morawski and Marcin Kaczkan have
set out to camp I. The young Poles can take advantage of Denis'
knowledge and experience, and he is going to be supported by a
strong and determined team. Weather permitting, they will try
to permanently establish camp II.
Pawlikowski from Zakopane, Poland, has already adjusted to the
altitude. He is a member of the TOPR ("Tatra Voluntary Rescue
Team") and has already participated in a dozen or so big
expeditions to the Himalayas and to Karakorum, including the K2
winter expedition from the Pakistani side. He has been neither
concerned with his head injury caused by ice slivers, nor with
frostbites or his temporary blindness. He awaits his turn to set
himself against K2's Northern Pillar once again.
bad weather, Piotr Morawski, Denis Urubko and Marcin Kaczkan
are getting ready to leave the base and begin climbing the slope
of K2 by preparing the ropes. Photo by ©
base under K2.
- English translation: "Scrivanek")