WINTER POLISH EXPEDITION
bad weather, Denis Urubko and Marcin Kaczkan reached 7630 m. They found
camp IV there destroyed by the wind. The entire equipment has been blown
away by the gale.
The night at camp III was cold and windy. Rumbling of the tent's walls
did not allow them to sleep. They were very cold. In the morning they
tried to warm themselves up using the camp burner. The wind did not
stop banging against the tent. According to the weather forecast the
afternoon should be better. You could see the blue sky from the base
camp from time to time. Denis and Marcin decided to head out for camp
IV around noon.
The head of the expedition Krzysztof Wielicki had even a worse night
at camp II (6780 m). "I couldn't even shut my eyes. I struggled
so that the wind would not blow me away together with the tent - he
said in the morning. - Now the wind has eased up a bit. I will try to
get some sleep and I'll head out for camp III. I will not make it any
higher in these conditions". After spending a night in camp I,
Maciej Pawlikowski and Dariusz Zaluski decided to return to base camp.
They are too exhausted physically and psychologically to go on. For
them the expedition is over.
We were plagued by a blizzard all day at base camp. The expected weather
clearing did not come. "The squalls are so loud that I can't hear
myself when I talk over the radio telephone! " - screamed Krzysztof
Wielicki already from camp III to the base camp. Denis Urubko reported
at 4 p.m. from where camp IV stood. The tent was destroyed. "We
put it up with Piotr Morawski haphazardly. It wasn't properly fastened"
- he explained. Marcin Kaczkan reached him already in darkness. He has
never been that high on K2 and hasn't got acclimatized yet. Denis put
up a small tent. They brought the minimum emergency equipment. They
have one sleeping bag and a stove for cooking. They don't have the mattresses.
They will sleep on a coil of rope.
During the evening communication session Wielicki reminded the guys
from camp IV: "Take preventively some medication against frost
bite which will dilate your blood vessels. They are in the first-aid
kit". But the first-aid kit was also blown away. Denis and Marcin
have to share one aspirin. We don't know what the temperature is at
that altitude. At camp III, half a kilometre below, it was -36C at 8
Late in the evening we received the current weather forecast from Pakistan.
It's very bad. Another cloudy front is approaching fast, the wind is
to gain in force in the next few days.
Rogozinska Feb. 25, 2003