Gia
Tortladze - on the ice wall at ABC. K2 - on the background. Photo
by ©
Monika
Rogozinska
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Each
day brings the alpinists closer to the summit of K2. Within two
days, they have secured 600 meters of the 4 km high Northern Pillar
with fixed ropes
Yesterday's
team that was working at the Pillar, consisting of Denis Urubko
and Vassilij Pivtsov, has been replaced today by Dariusz Zaluski/Maciej
Pawlikowski and Piotr Morawski/Marcin Kaczkan. They mounted another
100 meters of lines.
"We
will be securing the route with fixed ropes up to a height of
7900 m", says Krzysztof Wielicki, head of the expedition.
"It's going to take us around a month. Then we can think
of attacking the summit. At this time of year, when it isn't covered
with fresh snow, the mountain looks particularly threatening and
bleak. The sun hardly ever reaches the upper base. It's only here
that we see what we risk. An important task is also moving up
all bases and connecting them into one, common base. We'll try
to carry out such a shipping action in one week's time."
The
last days in the lower base (3900 m) were exceptionally beautiful,
warm and quiet, considering it is winter. It was only yesterday
that the weather changed. The wind, though stirring up dust, also
provides us with energy - Bogdan Jankowski fixed a fan that is
charging the accumulators essential for keeping phone and computer
communications with the world.
Monika
Rogozinska,
01.02.03
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