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Expedition
"PAMIR 2005"
Cordadoppia
association (
www.cordadoppia.it), whose seat is in Val Vomano, Teramo (Italy),
has organized a climbing expedition to reach the top of Peak Lenin,
7134 mts, on the Zaalaysky range of north-western part of Pamir,
in Central Asia (Kyrkyzstan).
Pamir consists of a group of mountains which extends throughout
the territories of Kyrkyzstan and Tajikistan Republics (ex URSS);
this mountain chain is characterized by many peaks and eternal glaciers.
The
Zaalaysky range develops itself along the geographic parallels and
it is 150 kms long ; Peak Lenin is just in the middle.
The
Pamir exploration had already started in 1928 (under the power of
the URSS Science Accademy), but, only in 1934, three Sovietic climbers,
K. Cermukha, V. Abalakov and I. Lukin opened a route on the northern
side (along the Lipkin Rocks ) starting from A. Achik-Tash upland
plain, reaching in the end the summit at 7134 mts.
Today,
on the northern side, seven routes have been opened and nine on
the southern one.The chosen route to climb Peak Lenin is located
on the northern side and it is called V.Kovaliov.It was opened in
1954, going all over the eastern crest, after having reached Peak
Razdelnaya.The route is completely situated in Kyrkyzstan, since
this side is just on the boundary of Tadjikistan. According to the
Russian CIS scale, this route belongs to 5A,which,in the European
scale, corresponds to Td/-ED(very difficult).It is a very long,
binding route, as well as the extreme changements of weather, with
so low temperatures and strong winds.
The
expedition will be in "alpine style", light and fast.
The cordadoppia team is composed of Carlo Zuccarini, Tommaso Zuccarini
and Alfiero Calvarese. During the expedition, the group will be
able to send daily reports, containing photos and messages. In this
way you will be able to follow the group during the different and
numerous phases of the climbing, thanks to technological equipment,
such as Pc Compaq, satellite phone Turaya, solar pannels (Soco mod.
Oasi and Laccadive), digital photocamera Nicon etc-
A special thank to those(friends, sponsors and corporations)who,
through their help, have made all these things possible.
Carlo
Zuccarini
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