"7
Summits Club" EVEREST expedition
May,
27
At
12.30 Chinese time rescue team of 10 Sherpa and expedition doctor
Andrey Selivanov descended from the North Col. They delivered Lincoln
Hall to ABC. Lincoln was able to walk on his own. During the whole
previous night Lincoln was sleeping on oxygen on the North Col.
As
soon as he arrived in ABC Lincoln was given new portion of medical
care. Brain edaema is practically gone now. He regained adequate
perception of reality. Lincoln made a telephone call to his wife
Barbara. He told her that he has bad frostbites of his fingers.
Barbara answered that she would love him all the same even if he
would loose all his fingers. In two days Lincoln is planning to
go down to BC and then depart for Katmandu
and Australia.
Big
thanks to Sherpas of 7 Summits Club and expedition doctor Andrey
Selivanov, who at risk for their own lives conducted unique rescue
operation on Everest. During several last years there was no team
able to descend an unmoving body from the altitude of 8800m.
The
Leader of expedition 7 Summits Club on Everest
Alexander Abramov
And the responsible secretary
Lyudmila Korobeshko
May,
26
7-00
p.m. Moscow time.
Linkoln
is safe and sound on the North Col!
On
10 p.m. Linkoln and all rescue group arrived at the North Col (7000
m). All the way from 7500 Linkoln walked on his legs! The doctor
Andrew Selivanov met him in Camp 1.
Now
Linkoln is at warm tent. Tomorrow morning when it'll be warm, he
will begin to descent to ABC.
4-00
p.m. Moscow time.
Unique
rescue operation of Lincoln Hall goes on.....
At
16:45 on local time the group of rescuers has informed, that they
have begun
descent of Lincoln Hall on a rocky belt and soon hope to be in camp
8300.
At
18 hours (local time) communication was already from camp 8300.
Expeditions Sirdar Mingma Gelu has come here from camp ABC. He has
brought plastic stokes basket which has given for rescue operations
by Jamie MacGinness (Everest Peace Project). Lincoln
has a rest, drinks tea. He in consciousness, however not completely
understands
what happens. The group prepares for descent on the following difficult
part, a
rocky crest. From height approximately 7500 meters, the way will
pass already on a
snow crest and Sherpas hope to lower Lincoln in camp on North Col
until night.
There the doctor of expedition Andrey Selivanov prepares for the
victim.
Now
13 Sherpas under management of Mingma are occupied in rescue operation.
They
hope to have a rest and a sleep a pair of hours in camp on North
Col. Descent to ÀÂÑ is supposed to be begun with dawn, May, 27-th.
In advanced base camp a new team of Sherpas prepares for the further
transportation. They are from the expedition of Russell Brice. Thanks
him, MacGinness, Mazur and all help in unique rescue operations.
The
Leader of expedition 7 Summits Club on Everest
Alexander Abramov
And the responsible secretary
Lyudmila Korobeshko
11:00
Moscow time. Alexander Abramov by the phone from camp ABC.
News
about Lincoln Hall.
May,
25 at 19:20 Sherpas have stopped the rescue operation proceeding
more of 9
hours at height about 8700 meters. They have verified the fact of
death of Lincoln
Hall, on the basis of that from 17:00 till 19:20 he did not submit
any attributes
of life. Five Sherpas, completely exhausted, have gone down in darkness
in camp
8300.
In
the morning May, 26 at 7 in the morning, Dan Mazur , which was climbing
with
group of clients, has informed, he is near Lincoln Hall. Lincoln
was motionless,
but submitted weak attributes of life. Immediately 13 Sherpas, spending
night on
North Col (7000 meters) were sent for realization of rescue operations
on height
of 8700 meters. The same task was put to five Sherpas which stay
in camp 8300 .
Unfortunately, two of them have lost sight yesterday and required
help. Thus,
approximately by 11 a.m. three Sherpas with tea, oxygen and medicines
have
reached Lincoln. After plentiful drink and reception of medicines,
Lincoln
started to talk, though speech of him was untied and he could not
move
independently . Not waiting arrival of the basic group, three Sherpas
have started
to move him on a crest. Now they could move him on 50 meters on
a difficult rocky
site. Now the second group of eight Sherpas with all necessary came
for help. If
weather will allow, rescue oper
ations will proceed all night.
Thank
for the help and support to Dan Mazur, Russell Brice and Jemmi MacCinnes.
The
Leader of expedition 7 Summits Club on Everest
Alexander Abramov
And the responsible secretary
Lyudmila Korobeshko
May,
25
18:30
Moscow time. Alexander Abramov by the phone from camp ABC.
21
v 25th of May good weather kept on Everest, the wind was very weak.
May, 25
in midnight a team of Lincoln Hall (Australia), Òhomas Weber (Germany),
guide
Harry Kikstra (Holland) in support of 5 high-altitude porters has
left camp of
8300 m for a summit attempt. The group was well provided with oxygen
as about 20
superfluous cylinders were in camp 8300. At 9:00 Lincoln Hall and
three Sherpas
has reached the top. He went in good rate and has joyfully informed
about his
success on a portable radio set.
At
9:15 Harry Kikstra has informed, that Òhomas Weber, a climber with
weakened
sight, has completely lost sight. For this reason, traverse on rocks
to the top at
height of 8800 meters he considered practically impossible. Having
conferred,
Òhomas, Harry and two Sherpas have begun descent at 9:30 a.m., only
50 meters
from the summit on height. At 10:00 Lincoln Hall has reached on
descent a snow
triangle, at height of 8800 meters. And at this moment Sherpas have
transferred,
that Lincoln started to move downwards very bad, coordination was
lost. At 10:30
Lincoln has lain on snow and could not go down independently any
more. Sherpas
have begun rescue works. To the aid we have sent two more Sherpas
from camp ABC
with oxygen. They should bring additional oxygen, drink etc -.
Unexpectedly
at 12:20, Harry Kikstra has informed that he is with Òhomas and
to
two Sherpas at a level of the Second step, height of 8700 meters.
And that Òhomas
has a collapse, Òîìàñ has told only: L I have died ¦ and have lost
consciousness.
At 12:40 the death was verified . Harry has sent one of Sherpas
upward to the aid
of transportation of Lincoln. Then he has gone downwards with the
second Sherpas.
From 9:30 till 19:20 , almost 9 hours, four øåðïîâ tried to get
Lincoln lower. A
crest here is very complicated technically and in condition of Lincoln
it was
possible to lower him for 9 hours on 300-400 meters on a crest.
Sherpas could
lower him from the Second step on height of 8700 meters. During
descent Lincoln
two times talked on a portable radio set to friends. Conversations
were addle,
there was an obvious loss of orientation in time and space. After
5 p.m. Lincoln
has ceased to reply. Movements have got chaotic character. Sherpas
continued
attempts to move Linc
oln along a crest, but at 19:20 the death was verified. The probable
reason:
brain cerebral edema, pulmonary edema . Now 21:30, Sherpas have
gone down from a
crest in camp 8300ì, they are outside of danger though have got
awfully tired.
Harry Kikstra is in camp on 7000 m on North Col.
Conclusions:
in season of 2006 on Everest the record amount of climbers, under
our information - 15 person was lost. Strangely enough, the reason
of it became
extremely good, windless weather. This unnatural weather for Everest
proceeded
from May, 10 till May, 25. This weather has allowed a plenty of
climbers to reach
the summit. In more severe conditions, they, probably, would stop
climb at lower
heights. The summit became a trap for climbers with the latent problems
of health
The
Leader of expedition 7 Summits Club on Everest
Alexander Abramov
And the responsible secretary
Lyudmila Korobeshko
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