"Have you ever seen flying Samoilov? That's heart-breaking show..." Kazakhs were met by 1 level hurricane during their summit push. They have survived after the night at 7400 m, spent it in the half of the tent, set on tiny site. They're sitting in shelter tent without sleep. In the morning they managed to go further only 400 m in three hours, and reached 7500 m. The huragan wind lifted climbers in air and then threw on a snow. The summit was so close... The way down was awful.
Expedition sponsor - ASTANA MOTORS (Almaty, Kazakhstan)
Expedition clothes for Urubko, Shutov, Durov - SIVERA (Rjazan, Russia)
Expedition clothes for Samoilov - RED FOX (S.Petersburg, Russia)
Denis Urubko - expedition leader. He has already climbed Everest (in 2000), Lhotse (2001), Gasherbrum I (2001), Gasherbrum II (speed ascent, 7h30 min from BC, record time, 4 hours way down to BC) (2001), Kangchenjunga (2002) Shishapangma Main (2002), Nanga Parbat (2003), Broad peak (nornal route, 2003), Annapurna (2004), Broad peak (SW Face, first climb, 2005), Manaslu (normal route and then NE Face, first climb, 2006), Dhaulagiri (2007), K2 (from North, Japanese route, 2007). All ascents without supplementary oxygen.
"...There's not so much snow, but the winds are very hard... We are brave enough, but need the luck..."
January, 5 Kazakhs team has started from Almaty. The team consisted of four members:
January, 6 they had a brifing in Kathmandu together with Italians Nives Meroi, Romano Benet and Luka Vuerich, who are also going to Makalu. Photo Nives Meroi.
Romano, Nives, Luka
After the brifing
January, 8 The team is in Lukla. Tomorrow they'll fly to Makaly BC.
10 January, 2008 SMS from Denis Urubko ( 11-06 a.m., Almaty time): "Yesterday we arrived o BC (4800) but our phone doesn't work there. Today we are walking at 5400. Greetings to all!"
14 January, 2008 Denis Urubko, SMS (8-30 a.m. Moscow time): "We have made the deposit at 6000 m. during the acclimatization push. Makalu La seems very problematic. we're waiting the rest of members in ABC. Yesterday 4 porters came, left loads here and went down. All things here are covered by hoarfrost - it's as we had arrived here straight from K2."
15 January, 2008 Denis Urubko, SMS (8-27 a.m. Moscow time): "Porters and Italians came here yesterday. Today we had puja and open our BC. Probably, we'll go up tomorrow, to 6300".
Photo Nives Meroi
18 January, 2008 Denis Urubko, SMS (16-06 Moscow time):"We had to go against the wild winds with our "4DW" as Astana Motors cars (Astana Motors is the expedition's sponsor). We descended to BC with a lot of trubbles. Now all's OK".
Denis Urubko, SMS (12-05 a.m. Moscow time):"Three of us have spent the night at 6800. And then ascended to 7000 m. The route is in very good condition, there's snow. We returned to BC due to bad weather. Gennady is here, he feels not so well. Greetings to all!"
19 January, 2008 Denis Urubko, SMS (13-05 Moscow time): "The wild wind has banished clouds. There is the sun and hurricane on Makalu. We have no chance for the climb now. I hope for the weather improvement - and we'll go up just after it. Gennady is better. He's treating by the starvation".
20 January, 2008 Denis Urubko, SMS (7-00 a.m. Moscow time): "The hurricane will here be until Jan, 23, with wind speed 200 km/h, according to Italian forecast. We have to wait. I've never seen such quick running clouds..."
21 January, 2008 Denis Urubko, SMS (17-15 Moscow time): "I'm already like crazy due to this awful wind. It seems that the wind becames stronger and stronger from day to day".
23 January, 2008 Denis Urubko, SMS (12-20 Moscow time): "Three of us - me, Serguey and Eugeny - have descended to 4800, slept in warm and calmness. Then we returned to 5650. The snowfall began in HImalaya, the wind is weaker. We're waiting the good conditions".
24 January, 2008 Denis Urubko, SMS (7-45 Moscow time): "Good morning! The sun rised above Makalu, the wind weakens, Eugeny, Serguey and me will start to the summit bid tomorrow, and Italians too, probably. I has shaved, I shall put on all clean clothes, and is ready for the fight".
25 January, 2008 Denis Urubko, SMS (14-45 Moscow time): "We reached 6400 despite the very strong wind. The weather stiill to be incredible - storm from the West. We'll hope for tomorrow".
26 January, 2008 Denis Urubko, SMS (12-00 Moscow time): "Eugeny felt bad in the morning, but the descent attempt was failed due to the hurricane. It became better in midday, so we managed to descend to the icefall. Eugeny is coninuing to BC, I have returned to 6400. We're waiting..."
27 January, 2008Denis Urubko, SMS (17-25 Moscow time): "Me and SErguey have reached 7200 m, fixed ropes in some difficult places, and I have already imagined ourselves in the sturm camp... but Serguey felt bad (Probably, there're consequences of quinsy), so we began to descend. I'm in BC, Serguey stayed in camp 6300".
28 January, 2008 Denis Urubko, SMS (18-45 Moscow time): "We're in BC. Today here's extreme bad weather. We're planning next push in 2-3 days".
photo Nives Meroi
31 January, 2008 Denis Urubko, SMS (15-20 Moscow time): "We reached 6700. Serguey, Gennady and me. All as predicted - the WIND...It's as if we had set our tent on a railroad track, with a new train arriving every minute; passing us by just one meter at the last moment...".
1 February, 2008 Denis Urubko, SMS (18-56 Moscow time): "We are at 7400 m, We set the half of the tent on the tiny site, sit without sleep, ready for the emergency evacuation. The wind is incredible here. I hope for the morning :) ".
SMS (16-35 Moscow time): "We are at 7400 m, alive".
2 February, 2008 Denis Urubko, SMS (16-10 Moscow time): "Hi! We couldn't survive there. The wind threw us, we managed to go 400 m only in 3 hours. The way back was awful, but all of us are safe and sound. We've just returned to BC. Italians say that the weather was "good", but the next forecast promises some worse days... I have a lot of emotions. the summit was so close - you can touch it... Maybe, it's not my destiny... "
Denis Urubko, SMS (5-30 Moscow time): "We have spent the night. Now we'll drink as much as possible and go up to 7800. Guys are well"
Karl Gabl (meteorologist from Innsbruck) confirmed that the wind was hurricane force (135 km/h average) and the temperature was -36 °C. Also, the forecast for the upcoming week looks bad. The Italians chime in, "The wind is very strong," they dispatched, "in these conditions survival is impossible."
According to Karl, the jet stream is not about to move in the next week, and the hurricane is expected to last until Thursday.
3 February, 2008 Denis Urubko, SMS (7-15 Moscow time): "We are in crisis - have been virtually blew off by the wind. Have you ever seen flying Samoilov? That's heart-breaking show. We've got some frostbites. But are alive. Though we had a chance. Tomorrow we'll begin our way to home".
4 February 2008 Denis Urubko, SMS (18-15 Moscow time):"There're waist-deep snow in the valley. Sirdar Mingma is very sad. We have to walk 8 days beside od 5 days. But we're going to do our best".
7 February 2008 Denis Urubko, SMS (17-08 Moscow time):"We left Barun valley. Are in Tashigaon village. All's OK, but we are very tired. Hope to reach Kathmandu in 3 days. Don't worry ".
8 February 2008 Denis Urubko, SMS (11-00 Moscow time):"We're in Sedoa village, between bamboo and bananas. WE have called to Italians - they're in BC, the wind's strong, has blew out the tent in CAmp 1. Guys are thinking about the abortion the expedition".