Expedition chronicle

18.03.04

16.03.04

15.03.04

14.03.04

21.02.04

17.02.04

Photogallery

15 July, 2004 The route line and comments by Pavel Shabaline

7 June 2004 Victor Kozlov called from Kathmandu: two teams - Everest and Jannu met there. Today we have a meeting with Prime Minister of Nepal. We'll arrive to Moscow June, 9 at 14-15. Press conference will take place June,10 at 1 p.m. in RIA News

1 June 2004 Victor Kozlov called at 20-00 (Moscow time) : All climbers descended to the base camp. The expedition is over. The team'll leave base camp on June,4. Andrew Volkov, the President of the Russian Mountaineering Federation will arrive to Nepal June,6 - he'll take part in the press conference together with the teams. All Russians (Everest team and Jannu team will fly to Moscow June,8. The press conference in Moscow will be on June,10.

Today in 9-20 local time Victor Bobok and Victor Volodin reached the top of Everest!!! Congratulations!

The groups of Shabaline and Kuznetsov are continuing to descend via classic route and will come to base camp today. there are omly two Russian expeditions here, all other climbers have already left BC.

See NTV+ today - the President of Russian Mountaineering Federation Andrew Volkov will talk about the expedition.

31 May, 2004 at 9-15 (local time) Piotr Kuznetsov, Eugeny Vinogradsky and Gleb Sokolov summited! Congratulations!

Victor Volodin and Victor Bobok are going up to Camp 5. Shabaline's group spent night, have had breakfast and continue to descent to ABC via classic route. The expedition isn't over!

The tem greets RedFox - in down suits and oether clothes from that outdoor equipment company climbers are safe and sound after two nights at 8600!

30 May, 2004 at 10-00 Pavel Shabaline, Iljas Tukhvatullin and Andrew Mariev summited Everest via the new route - the center of the North Wall!

Congratulations!

The expedition isn't over - two groups are on their way to the top.

29 May, 2004 18-06 Victor Kozlov has just called and has informed the details:

May, 27 group Shabaline-Tukhvatullin-Mariev has left camp on 8300 and went upwards with the tent, ropes, gas and meal. Weight of backpacks was significant for such altitude. They ascended to 8600 m and reached there the extremely difficult step of "6-grade" rocks. They have tried to climb it, but, fixed 0,5 rope, were compelled to stop and spent the night there. Work at such altitude is very hard. Guys have set Camp 5 (8600 м) - the small tent, there are no sleeping bags, only the stove and a little meal. Guys spent the night in down suits. Today they have continued the work on rocks. It was possible to fix a rope more. Today they spend the night in the same place, on 8600!!! Guys have not enough oxygen, they have taken only 2 cylinders per person, they couldn't take more to carry up , anybody did not expect for such situation. Therefore they save oxygen, use it extremely seldom and work on the minimal charge when use. Tomorrow they will try to pass more to the left - this way seems to be easier.. .. They will reach the summit, or should go downwards - the fourth day at 8600 t is impossible.

The group " SIBERIA " (Kuznetsov, Vinogradsky and Sokolov) is now at 7800. Today they have made loads descention to camp 2 - to take ropes there, and then have ascended to 7800 again, and then went firther. They have left loads on 14-th rope after 7800. Tomorrow with all loads they will start to 8600 (directly to camp 5).

There were some changes in the third group: after it has spent 2 nights in Camp 2 at 7200, Yuri Koshelenko without the special reasons has left downwards, and now he is in АВС. Bobok and Volodin have remained in Camp 2. Tomorrow they will ascend to 7800.

Our congratulations to Jannu team!

Hope, God won't leave us!

Victor Kozlov :

Shabaline's group has gone upwards yesterday. They took the small tent with them. Climbers fixed one rope, reached 8600 m and spent night there without sleeping bags, only in down suits. There're the difficult rocks above 8600, and it's need to fix minimum one more rope. "Siberia" group is at 7800.

28 May, 2004 Victor Kozlov :

The weather's very bad, it's snowing. Shabaline's group ascended to 8300. The three-men team led by Kuznetsov is at Camp 3 (7800). The forecast is changing continuously. Guys will go up tomorrow if weather will be normal. May,27

24 May, 2004 Victor Kozlov :

The weather began to be restored, within the next few days the forecast favorable. Shabaline's group (Shabaline, Tukhvatullin, Mariev) left today from ABC to the wall .-they have ascended to С1 and will spend the night there. Nikolay Zhilin goes with them up to С2 or С3, helps to bring equipment. The day after tomorrow, May, 26 the group " Siberia " - Kuznetsov, Cokolov and Vinogradsky is going upward. Vladimir Arhipov will have a rest in ВС. On May, 27, the group Koshelenko-Bobok - Volodin will go upward too.

As you understand, these pushes are the final. The team will not have an other opportunity. A fixed ropes ended at 8400 m. The highest camp is at 8300 m. Shabaline's group should fix 3-4 pitches more above 8400, and then they will go to the summit without ropes. If for any reasons it will be not possible to them, the following groups should execute this task.

It is a lot of snow. Shabaline has gone up to 7200, and he had to dig out ropes from the snow on a route, and it is very heavy work as you know...

Many climbers was lost this year on Everest...

22 May, 2004 Victor Kozlov :

The weather's very bad after May, 19. "Siberia" group descended, they couldn't work in such conditions. The visibility is about 40 meters, and it snowing continuously. The forecast promises iprovement from tomorrow, if that's right, Shabaline's group'll go upwards.

21 May, 2004 Victor Kozlov :

Today it was snowing all the day long above, and visibility was maximum 40-50 meters at 8400m . All the wall stays white. Because of the bad weather the guys did not work as we intended, the group led by Petr Kuznetsov will spend the night at 7800m again. We hope, that tomorrow weather will allow to climb above 8400m. Pavel Shabaline's group (Shabaline - Ilias Tukhvatullin and Andrew Mariev) returned to the base camp from the hotel after having a rest and at evening radiosession we will decide what to do further.

20 May, 2004 Victor Kozlov :

May, 19. Today weather was unstable: it was clouded and snowing slightly. The group led by Petr Kuznetsov (Kuznetsov - Arhipov - Sokolov - Vinogradsky) descended to spend the night in camp III at 7800m. Today they accomplished a great work: they climbed some pitches and reached the bastion altitude of 8400m. On the previous point - 8270m - they made a place for the tent and hauled there the tent and a part of gear.
Tomorrow Kuznetsov's group leaves upward to continue fixing, and to spend the night already at 8270m.

19 May, 2004

Happy birthday to Piotr Kuznetsov! Good health, good luck and a reliable friendly shoulder - always! And now - especially!

17 May, 2004 Victor Kozlov:

Shabaline's group descended to BC. Kuznetsov's group (Kuznetsov- Sokolov - Vinogradsky- Arkhipov) goes up now. Yesterday we have an unpleasant incident: at 4 p.m. (local time) the unknown climber has dumped an empty oxygen cylinder which has flown near to guys, fortunately nobody having touched. Today at 6 a.m. the history has repeated - one more cylinder has flown by absolutely near to guys working on a wall. I do not know, who has made it, but it is obvious, that it is people which are close to the summit. It would be desirable to address to all climbers: please, do not dump empty oxygen cylinders downwards. There're people working at the Wall!

15 May, 2004 (evening) today the team has reached 8270 m.

(morning) Victor Kozlov:

The trio - Shabaline-Tukhvatullin-Mariev have fixed five pitches more at the bastion yesterday, and today they've fixed three pitches more at the difficult rocks. They'll continue to work at the route 3 days more, then Kuznetsov's group'll change them. If Shabaline's group will be successful in fixing ropes furthe and will set the tent at 8400, Kuznetsov's group will make the summit bid if the weather allows. Shabaline's group works without supplementary oxygen. Bukinitch won't work at the wall - the doctor doesn't let him - he's too yoing for the high altitude. The weather's fine, but the forecast promises high winds soon.

13 May, 2004

Photogallery:

12 May, 2004 Victor Kozlov: Pavel Shabaline wishes his daughter Masha happy birthday and all the team joins his congratulations.
The 3-rd tent set at 7800. Today Yuri Koshelenko and Victor Bobok spent the night there. Probably Alexey Bukinitch will leave the expedition. He is still young and cannot work at such altitude.
The three climbers (Shabaline, Tukhvatullin, Mariev) left 7200 upward with a load. Today the high-altitude sherpas spend the night at 7200. They will help to carry loads till 7800 for 2 days. In 2 days if the weather allows (and we have the forecast good in the meanwhile) Shabaline's group will start fixing the difficult bottom part of the bastion from 8000m. Our success mostly depends on Shabaline's group working.
Then Kuznetsov's group " Siberia " will replace them: tomorrow they will finish their rest and come back from the chic hotel.
We continue our ascent. We still have a small stock of time. The health is normal.

11 May, 2004 The team's working at the key part of the route - the climb of it will definite the expedition's success. The key is the rock bastion between 7900 and 8500 m. Two parties include such technical stars as Pavel Shabaline, Iljas Tukhvatullin, Yuri Koshelenko and Andrew Mariev and Victor Bobok, are going to fix ropes at the bastion.

Yuri Ermachek's group left base camp May 7 to set camp at 7900.

5 May, 2004 Victor Kozlov: May 1-2-3 nobody worked at the route - hurricane was so strong. The weather is so-so today, and "Siberia" group (Piotr Kuznetsov, Gleb Sokolov, Eugeny Vinogradsky and Vladimir Arkhipov) climbed up till 7200, put off the ropes from the snow, rebuilt the tent and spent night there. Today they went upwards till the end of fixed ropes, 7750 m, where Shabaline's group have brought the next tent. Siberia group prepared the place for the tent 200 m below, at 7550. Now they're descending to 7200 to rest there, but tomorrow they ascend again, and one party will finish the tent's place and other party will work further. The wether's improoving. That's our news.

Nickolay Cherny :
Shabaline's group has descended to BC, other groups are at the Wall. Tomorrow I with Sherpas will o upwards, hope they'll work there. So unstable weather inspires an unpredictable situation. In short, all's OK yet, all members are health...(I'm knocking at the wood...)

4 May, 2004 Eugeny Vinogradsky called: The weather became better. Our group's going to work at the Wall this morning, so don't wait my calls for 4 days. During past days winds have destroyed three tents and the mess-tent. Our goal is to set one more camp. The team has reached 7600-7800 m altitude (in the different estimate) We need the camp at 8500m!

From the history: such high-altitude camp was set on Everest slopes only in 1997 (Indonezian expedition). Climbers usually set highest camps at 8000-8300 m and reach the top from there, trying to spend as less time in the "mortal zone" as they can. The North Wall has technicaly difficult rocks between 7900 and 8500 meters, and only overcome this part climbers can try summit bid. (www.alpclub.ur.ru)

1 May, 2004 Nickolay Zhilin from BC: all members are back in BC. There are hurricane winds on the Wall. Out tents are OK yet. According to the forecast, winds'll blow two days more...

29 April, 2004 Eugeny Vinogradsky called from BC (4 p.m. local time):

We've just radioed with Iljas Tukhvatullin - Shabaline's group has fixed 4 ropes along the rocks above the snow field. They are climbing very quikly, I think, there're not too difficult rocks. So, we have 15 ropes above 7200. Guys are going to prepare the place fot the tent.

Ermachek, Zhilin and Volodin are resting in BC. Koshelenko and Bobok are descending there. The coach of the team Nickolay Cherny coordinates team members from ABC at 6200, he lives there a week already.

The weather became better, it's frozen, the wind has changed it's direction. Our high-altitude sherpas began to carry loads till 7200. They're great! We congratulate all our friends with the International Day May,1 ! www.alpclub.ur.ru

18 April, 2004 Victor Kozlov called from the Base Camp at 23-00 (local time):

Shabaline's group has fixed two difficult ropes more through the first bastion above Camp1. Kuznetsov's group is at 6200 now.

17 April, 2004 Victor Kozlov called from the Base Camp at 23-00 (local time):

The group led by Pavel Shabaline (Iljas Tukhvatullin and Andrew Mariev) said in 6 p.m. radio relation, that they were lucky to organize the small place for the tent of Camp 1 at 7000 m. Camp1 was planned at 6900, but there's very hard stownfalls danger. It's snow in BC now. The visibility is poor, and I can't see what's at 7000 - if there's snow too, or no. We hope no, and our guys would fix some more ropes at the wall. Now we have 3 ropes above Camp 1 fixed. If the snow falls there, avalanches will be able, so we'll have to wait. Next group working at the route will be Kuznetsov's one (Sokolov, Vinogradsky, Arkhipov). All are healthy.

Victor Kozlov, April, 17

14 April, 2004 Base Camp, 21-30 local time.
E. Vinogradsky called - his voice was hoarse - guys are resting in the Base, at the altitude like at Elbrus, the highest point of Europe:

- Today our group (Kuznetsov's) and Ermachek's group are resting here. Shabaline's group - at 6200, Koshelenko's group - at the end of fixed ropes. Tomorrow we'll ascend to ABC-1 at 5600. We work, replacing each other.

- Eugeny, is your team trying to climb via the center of the North Face or you are looking for the more logical and simple variant of the route?

- Our route - via the center of the Wall, little left from the hang icefall. One of the problem - we need to set Camp 1 about 6900, but there's not absolutely the place for it. Other problem - strong winds and dust snow avalanches. And the stones are falling, when the sun shines in the midday.

There's the big snow field just above our route, and it would become the avalanche source if snowfalls. So, the winds made our route more safety in spite they aren't comfortable.

- What do you use for the safe?

- Wt use ice screws mostly, and firn hooks. There're very few cracks in the rocks, so we used pickets.
- And what about your high-altitude Sherpas, who are choosen for the work at the Wall?

- They are carrying loads from the beginning of the glacier till 6200, that loads what had been left by porters. We hope to involve Sherpas to work above, at the fixed ropes which we are preparing now.
- Some words about member's health?

- About all of us have cough, but it's normal at such altitude. The air's very dry, breath is forcing, and it's no dangerous - it's usual moments.
- Where's your notebooks and Internet dispatches?

- Notebooks are in the Base Camp. And we are mostly at the route. I think that relations aren't possible every day. We have one sat phone - I use it today.
- Thank you for yuor call! Good luck for you! What are your impressions from Mt. Everest this time?

- As Piotr Kuznetsov said, the Wall appeares more serious than we proposed...

Sat relation has been interrupted. Alexey Mjasnikov, the editor of Ural Mountaineering site talked with E. Vinogradsky. The source is:http://www.alpclub.ur.ru/alp/2004/Everest/chron.html

13 April, 2004 Vladimir Arkhipov called: we fixed totally 18 ropes. There's difficulties with the place for Camp1 - we couldn't find it. Kuznetsov's group is in ABC-1 at 5600. (www.stolby.ru)

Eugeny Vinogradsky called: there're strong winds, with the sand, and some of us cough... (alpclub.ur.ru)

12 April, 2004 Victor Kozlov from the base camp:
Four groups led by Shabaline, Koshelenko, Kuznetsov and Ermachek have already fixed the rope. Starting from the bergschrund there are 18 ropes fixed. We climbed up to 6900m and lifted upward the tent. There is the opportunity that Koshelenko's group will climb to set the camp 1, because now it is far to descend.
Yesterday under Nikolay Zhilin's initiative in АВС-1 we organized baths, all the guys remained pleased, and today we arranged the baths in the base camp for Shabaline's group.
Pavel Shabaline informs: АВС-2 is settled on the plateau, at 6200m. It takes about 40 minutes to get from АВС-1 up to the bergschrund. The first pitch "stand on end", and it seems for this reason we will have the problems with high-altitude porters soon. The Group of Koshelenko has left upwards: the guys will try to settle tents there. We are planning to lead a curriculum of high-altitude porters and to fix the rope through the bergschrund to help the porters to carry further the cargoes.
We have to work on the Wall quickly and to move running, stones fly like shrapnel: for this reason we have to take a break after 16.00. It is cold enough: at 6200m the temperature is about -13-15С, but at 6900m it is already -19С. There is a wind 6-8m/sec today. The weather pleases to us. But approximately once in four days a strong wind blows, we have even to hold the tent.
From Ermachek group we have the message, that they have rested against hard rocks, and they are searching the right place for spending the night. The impressions from the Wall: there are slate steps on the contrary, smooth, slippery and it is impossible, unreliab and unpleasant to organize the right belay. We leave to continue fixing on an hour earlier, in seven, instead of in eight, trying not to get under rockfalls.
The main thing: our health is all right.

7 April , 2004 Victor Kozlov called from the Everest Base Camp: the team is working at the Wall. The first group (led by Koshelenko) returned to the Base Camp (5600), the second group (led by Pavel Shabaline) works at the route. They spent night at 6200. There are very cold on the route. The weather holds without changes - since the morning the sun is shining, and it is snowing in the evening. But the equipment given by RedFox, helps to overcome all difficulties and any cold. Our high-altitude porters look at the Wall from the bottom and say that Russians are crazy... The temperature in the Base at the midday may be about 10C when there are no wind...Some expeditions has arrived here, all are going to the normal route.

6 April , 2004 Victor Kozlov, the head of the expedition, reports from the Base Camp:
"We settled the first advanced base camp (АВС-1) at 5600m and made the full carry of 5200 kg cargo with the help of 120 yaks. Further the yaks refused to go. We settled АВС-2 at 6200m right under the Wall, and set some tents. 110 porters within two days helped to lift a cargo. At 6000m we have a serious problem: porters work at the altitude from 5600 up to 6000 meters, up to the beginning of the glacier, and refuse to go further. We cut down steps for them, Pavel Shabaline stands in running shoes on the glacier, showing the safety of the route, but these people arrange revolution, throw things and leave downwards. Thus, at 6000 meters there are accumulated 2500kg of cargo. Now we try to solve this problem (which many expeditions collide with) including the help of additional money.
Despite of all complexities, we began fixing the bottom part of the route: it's has fixed about 250m of the rope. The group headed by Koshelenko descended today and Shabalin's group will leave tomorrow and the day after tomorrow Kuznetsov's group will work. Everything goes under the plan.
The weather since morning is usually good, it is snowing in the evening. At the base camp, 5200m, participants of military Indian expedition arrived".

(translated by Anna Piunova)

2.04.2004
The head of the expedition Victor Kozlov reports:
Everything goes right way, the two groups began upwards... The two groups leaded by Koshelenko and Shabalin are at 5600m now. Tomorrow the first 50 yaks will do the first full carry up to 5600m. Also for tomorrow the other two groups leaded by Ermachek and Kuznetsov are planning to ascend 5600m and stay there to settle a Camp, and Koshelenko's and Shabalin's groups will enter the Wall. The weather lasts tolerable.

Photogallery:

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31.03.2004
Victor Kozlov, the head of the expedition, reports:
Yesterday we arrived to the Base Camp and settled the tents. Then we celebrated Victor Kozlov's birthday. Today there is puja ceremony in Base camp, and tomorrow we are waiting for the visit of the Llama. We complete a cargo for lifting it in the advanced base camp, which we are planning to set at 5600m. Tomorrow we will send forward the first part of 50 yaks. One day before that the first two groups will go to fix the ropes and mark the route. Everything is OK, the weather is excellent, but a wind amplifying after afternoon prevents a little.

(translated by Anna Piunova)


30.03.2004
Victor Kozlov reports (by the phone. March, 29): We are in Shugar at 4200m now. Tomorrow we are planning to make our way further by jeeps (three loaded trucks follow us) and arrive in Everest Base Camp. The arrangement there could potentionally take two or three days but the advanced group might make their first trip pushing the route earlier.

(translated by Anna Piunova)


24.03.2004

Victor Kozlov: 0n March, 20 the team has arrived in Kathmandu and is planning to make its way to Everest North Face on March, 26. Acclimatization process has completed now. The guys are a little bit tired after Ama Dablam ascent and languiding with the Kathmandu's heat but they feel very positive about the expedition.

(translated by Anna Piunova)

Photogallery: