February, 2004 in All Saints Church
in Moscow the Te Deum for the team success was managed.
the Expedition of the National combined team will start soon - February,
25 - to Himalaya for the first climb to Mt. Everest via the center
of the North Face. That'll be the third big Russian expedition after
the previous two - Everest in 82 and Kangchenjunga in 89.
press conference of team members took place February, 20 in Moscow.
All participants of the expedition, sponsors of the project, guests
of honour , veterans and
representatives of mass-media were there.
best high-altitude climbers will take part in the expedition. THe
heart of the team are climbers who were in Lhotse
Middle (8414 m) expedition in 2001. 9 climbers reached the top
of the last unclimbed 8000-er that year. It was the great event.
This climb was the nominee in Piolet D'Or 2001
events of that expedition showed in "Russian 8000-er"
film by VIctor Kozlov and Pawel Kadushin. Climbers filmed all process
up to the top - it was very difficult at such altitude. This film
became the finalist in BANFF Festival in 2002.
climbers were awarded by state awards for the LHotse Middle climb
- Ordens and Medals.
The project began been preparing since
the members list:
Kozlov (Moscow)- the head and the organizer of the expedition,
the head of the film group.
Cherny (Moscow)- the senior coach
Shakuro (Novokuznetsk)- cameraman
Borisenko (Moscow)- cameraman
Kuptsov (Moscow)- photocorrespondent
Bytchkovsky (Yekaterinburg)- doctor
ERmachek (Yekaterinburg)- climber
Zhilin (Yekaterinburg)- climber
Bobok (Moscow)- climber
Volodin (Moscow)- climber
Koshelenko (Rostov-Don)- climber
Shabaline (Kirov)- climber
Tukhvatullin (Podolsk)- climber
Sokolov (Novosibirsk)- climber
Kuznetsov (Кrasnojarsk)- climber
Arkhipov (Кrasnojarsk)- climber
Bukinitch (Sochi)- climber
Pjatnicyn (Rostov-Don)- coach
will be 6 videocameras in the expedition. THe Incoma company will
provide the TV bridge from the end of March. The Marsat company
provides terminals and traffic for the team information. Iridium
company also provides two terminals and traffic . THe company NTV+
provides the TV programs from the Base CAmp on TV.
clothes, sleeping bags, bagpacks are made by RedFox
company. (Saint Peterburg)
Cherny (the senior coach) about member's experience:
Vinogradsky climbed Everest 5 times, 4 times he stood at the top,
one time till 8300.
Pawel Shabaline and Iljas Tukhvatullin are well experiences technical
climbers, did 10 routes to Ak Su.
Kuznetsov, Vladimir Arkhipov and Gleb Sokolov together with Krasnojarsk
team realized the highest grade climb - the new route to Peak Pobeda
via Peak Armenia.
Yuri Ermachek climbed Khan Tengri last August (Kuzmin route).
Eugeny Vinogradsky climbed Cho Oyu this Autumn.
Koshelenko with Valery Babanov climbed Nuptse East. They were awarded
the Piolet D'or 2003 for that climb.
Alexey Bukinitch - the yongest member of the team. He's 22 years
old, he's the protegee of Yuri Koshelenko. Alexey is well technical
experienced climber, and has summited 7000-ers.
this team is well prepared to the such purpose. I wish them be carefully
the second recoinnaissance in the Spring 2003 I understood how serious
this rou te is. This is ice route. The Wall length - about 2,5 km.
Very difficult rocks in the lower partв of the route. The most difficult
- between 7900 and 8700. There are rocks which stopped all other
attempts. If we'll climb it, we'll reach the top, because the rest
part of the route isn't technical... only altitude... The first
group of our expedition will try to climb without supplementary
d'like to ask you to write us, because your letters will support
us, it's very important. - we'll be so far from you...
Kuznetsov (he climbed Mt. Everest twice - one time via
the classic route, and next time - the first climb of the new route):
altitude won't be the main difficult, but the rocks in the upper
part. All decisions about the route and tactics will be assumed
during the climb. Russian team managed the attempt of the first
climb of the new Everest route 8 years ago. There are 15 routes
on this Mount. We hope to climb one more - number 16. It'll be the
Vinogradsky (the legend of
Soviet and Russian Mountaineering):
main difficult - rocks at the altitude. When I saw this Wall for
the first time, I began to want to clmb it at once... The huge,
grandiose, beautiful Wall at the highest Mount. Our team is very
strong. We promise to do our best to climb the new Russian route
most of members are well experienced in technical climbs. Last summer
I and Pawel Shabaline climbed the North Face of Khan Tengri. That
wall had conditions close to the Everest North Wall. Sure, that
experience will be useful for us, and we 'll solve the problem of
the upper part of the Wall.
Edward Myslovsky (the
former President of Russian Mountaineering Federation, the member
of Everest Expedition in 1982):
team is realy national team of Russia. THis's our third big HImalaya
expedition - after two soviet expeditions in 1982 and 1989. I'm
very proud of Victor Kozlov - his efforts in organizing the expedition
are great! Sure, our climbers will reach their goal! We'll look
after the expedition events. Yes, the North Wall is very serious.
Very difficult rocks. It'll be the problem.
in Nepal Ambassy some Russian climbers were awarded the medals in
honour of the first Everest climb . THere are 66 RUssians who have
climbed Mt. Everest. We are very pleased to Nepal - this state permits
us to climb to Himalaya summits.
Pandey (the President of Nepal Tour companies Association):
happy to foward words with wishes of luck to Russian combined team
from Nepal Ambassador in Russia, and also to all Russian climbers!
We're proud og their achievements in Himalaya.
Volkov (The President of Russian Mountaineering Federation):
team is high experienced. I think we couldn't find the team better
than this one....
Kavunenko (Honoured Master of Sports, Honoured Rescuer
think these guys will climb this route - the center of the North
Face. Victor Kozlov's efforts are great! And I'm very pleased to
all sponsors who support this project.
Glushkovsky (The head of RedFox company (Outdoor equipment):
team is no less strong than soviet combined teams in 1982 and 1989
, and may be, stronger... God bless you!
Kuzmina (climber from 1949):
think about the first Russian Himalaya team, which was ready to
do the first climb to Everest from Tibet in 1959. They are really
ready, but the political situation didn't permit to realize that.
I'd like to wish our climbers to be safe and sound and to returne
back after th expedition.
Kozlova (the wife of the head of expedition):
We wish you fine weather! And we're waiting you return home and
will meet you in Sheremetevo in June!
combined team of Russian climbers supported by Russian Mountaineering
Federation is going to make the first ascent of Mt. Everest's North
Face via the center.
Expedition tflyes from Moscow on February, 25. The team consists
of 20 persons, 13 climbers among them. Somebody of them were the
members of the team successfully
summited the last world inclimbed "8-thousand" - Lhotse
Middle (8414 m) in 2001.
leader and the organizer of the expedition is Victor Kozlov, the
senior coach is Nikolay Cherny .
list of members of the expedition will be announced at the press
conference on February, 20, which will take place in World Trade
members will go to the press conference from the different cities
of Russia, and sponsors of the project, guests of honour and representatives
of mass-media will be also there.
special attention was given to the preliminary preparation of this
expedition. In May, 2002 the small group had made the reconnaissance
- they came to the bottom of the North Face, having planned a line
of the future route to the summit of Everest. In the spring of 2003
the second reconnaissance party had climbed via the center of the
North Face up to 6800 meters.
expedition dates: February, 25 - June, 9
unique ascent is possible!