next project of the Russian climbers "The first climb of K2
West Face (8611 m)" will begin in June, 2005
July, 2005 The team began their trek back
July, 2005 Victor
Kozlov (2-20 p.m.): spent night at 5600, our team went up till 6100
to the left of West Face and made photo- and video -report.
July, 2005 Victor
Kozlov (1-20 p.m.): we set the tent at 5600, and went up to 5800
to take photoes. Tomorrow we'll try to make pictures of the West
July, 2005 Victor
Kozlov called (7-40 p.m.) from the base camp:
The weather has stabilized today
morning. There're clouds, but it doesn't snow. Guys left BC and
reached Japanese camp where they've left the deposit. They set tent
and went up further after the midday. They found very good place
just under West Face - there'll be our ABC next year, at 5600 m.
The place's safe - ice, snow, but no stones from the wall. The distance
to the Face foot - 500-600 m. Then guys went back to 5300 (Japanese
camp) for night, tomorrow the'll move the tent to 5600 and begin
to seach the West Face conditions. The first impression - it's
very good! It's the pass to the left from the Face, and China
behind it. We have 5-6 days to seach the West Face detailes. Denis
Urubko visited me here in BC today.
July, 2005 Victor Kozlov called (11 a.m.):
The weather's abso;utely bad. All of us stay in BC. I'll call in
July, 2005 Victor Kozlov called (7 p.m.):
days of bad weather. Today it's snowing but in morning the window
opened, and guys went again up to Japanese camp to deposit some
more gear. The crevasses at the glacier aren't too deep but threre
are a lot of them... Tomorrow Piotr, Pavel and Vassily will go up
to the bottom of the West Face for 6 days.
It's the same long to the West
Face bottom from Japanese camp as from us till that camp... I'll
stay here in BC. Hope to visit Urubko and the team.
1 , 2005 Pavel Shabalin (6-40 p.m.):
We'll have rest day tomorrow. Today we went
up - till the place where Japanese camp was. There are a lot of
crevasses at the glacier. We marked our trek and deposited the part
of our loads. Our way was only 3 km (if look at staight line) but
it took us 6 hours. The other expeditions climbers have the forecast
- it promises snow - tomorrow or day after.
30, 2005 Victor
Kozlov (4-15 p.m.): We're in the classic Base Camp. In all days
we have gone 92 km. Thre're few climbers in BC. We set our camp
more West from them. Set dinning and kitchen tents. The weather's
worsening. Sometimwes it's snpwing. K2 is just front of us, in clouds,
pity. Today we we saw
Broad peak - there're two expeditions now, but more are waiting.
We need to ... Angel peak to reach K2 West Face. Our porters came
down, and we'll take another porters who can to go by glacier -
for special fee. During our way we saw Masherbrum face which was
choosen by Odintsov - the upper bastion was impressive.
Victor Kozlov called (7-40 p.m.):all four of us are sitting in the
tent with the view of K2, Broad peak and Gasherbrums, in Concordia
at 4500 m. It remains only one day trekking (about 5 hours) to K2
classic base camp. We'll rest there or will the same day go further.
Clouds appeared after the midday. (Piotr wanted to say something
by the sat phone, but he's out of voice - as a rule for him in the
Kozlov called (7 p.m.):we reached 4000 m today, went along the Baltoro
glacier. There are 6000-7000-m tops everywhere around us - beautiful!
The seventh day the weather's fine, but here's not so heat. Tomorrow
we're planning to start at 6 a.m. and go 20 km, rising 5000 vertical
meters. We met Odintsov and Ruchkin at the glacier - they went down.
Greetings to all!
Kozlov called (6-40 p.m.):We
have gone next 20 km today. It was the same heat - like a mountain
desert... No cloud at the sky. Now we are in Paju, 3400 m. THis's
a beautiful green oasis at the river bank. Very good place. We had
already seen ë2 during the way - the upper part. Are going to reach
ÅÒÕ glacier and continue our trekking tomorrow. Stay in touch.
(6-30 p.m.): We
left Askole today only - it took us 2 days to organize porters.
There were no porters in that village, and we ordered them from
the below place. There is extremely heat in Pakistan - here at 3000
m the temperature is 45 C. Too much snow as predicted and it melts
too fast. It couldn't came through some places after the midday
- small streams became the strong mountain rivers and we had some
difficulties crossing them. We have gone 20 km today and reach Jula.
Tomorrow we've to start at 4 a.m., go next 20 km and reach Paju
untill 2 p.m. Greetings to all!
Kozlov's call: we are in Askole, are going to begin trekking tomorrow.
The weather's fine
treks to K2 (blue), Broad peak (yellow) and Masherbrum (green)
21, 2005 Victor Kozlov's call: we are in Skardu. Our
team left Islamabad June, 19. We went by car 12,5 hours, then spent
night in Chilas. Yesterday we went 9 hours.
is very pleasant place, here's beauttiful valley, which is transformed
here as the lake. We enjoyed this place - all here're clean and
accurate... We have bought equipment, and are preparing vegetables
for the trekking. We'll start tomorrow to Askole, spend the night
there (in tents already) and next day begin our trek to K2 West
Face base camp.
Four members of the K2 West Face reconnaissance
expedition fly today to Islamabad from Moscow: Victor Kozlov,
Vassily Yelagin, Piotr Kuznetsov and Pavel Shabaln.
main stage of the project will be in June- August 2006. 20
strongest climbers from different cities of Russia will go from
Moscow to Pakistan. Most of them had been awarded by ordens and
medals for the great achievements in mountaineering.
film group will work in the expedition - six videocameras will record
all stages of the climb. THis material will be a base for documentary
filmabout the first K2 West Face climb.
first stage of the expedition - June, 15 - July, 25 2005. The small
team will reach the bottom of K2 West Face (Pakistan side), set
the Base camp, and choose the route line for the future climb.
of climb and reconnaissance K2 West Face:
Russian and World companies would support this project in
reconnaissance chronicle will be published at the official
expedition site Russianclimb,com