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март 2020
Денис Урубко: мне не нравятся горы. Я потерял там слишком много друзей. / Денис Урубко: Мне стыдно поражений. И нет больше возможности исправить ошибку. Интервью об экспедиции на Броуд пик. Российские альпинистки, поднявшиеся на 8000 Памяти Виталия Горелика / Борису Николаевичу Кораблину 90 лет! Для альпинизма никогда не поздно(интервью с Борисом Дедешко).
февраль 2020
2 февраля 1990 первое зимнее восхождение на пик Победы совершили Валерий Хрищатый, Сергей Овчаренко, Геннадий Михайлов, Сергей Богомолов и Геннадий Богомолов. Рассказ Сергея Богомолова / Deja vu... / Новый маршрут в Патагонии . Alessandro Bau and Giovanni Zaccaria climbed Cerro PiergiorgioПатагония. Болгары Никола Леваков, Тако Младенов и Стоян Тодоров проши маршрут Суперканалета на Фиц Рой, 5-7 февраляЭверест 1980. Интервью Лешека Чихи. Аконкагуа. Гибель Нелли Салдеевой. "Достаточно" Денис Урубко завершил свою альпинистскую карьеруЭверест. Аттракцион под занавес зимы. Группа из четырех шерпов полетит завтра в базовый лагерь Эвереста, чтобы установить рекорд Гиннесса как самая быстрая зимняя экспедиция, поднявшись на Эверест за шесть дней Елена Лалетина: "Поляки могут обойтись и без Урубко, чтобы подняться на К2" интервью для ONet.pl
январь 2020
Эверест. Зимняя экспедиция. Йост Кобуш./ Зимняя экспедиция на Броуд пик K2 winter expedition 70 лет Кшиштофу Велицкому "Зимний снежный Барс" польская экспедиция на Батура Шар (7795 м). Лобуче - Ама Даблам. Гашербрум. / Погиб словенский альпинист Грега Лачен Amangeldy Race. Dee Molenaar , участник экспедиции на К2 в 1953, умер в возрасте 101 Сергею Маркину 60! /
декабрь 2019
Удостоится ли Урубко российской награды? / Зимняя экспедиция на Ама Даблам и Лобуче, Алекс Гольдфарб и Золтан Сланско / Первовосхождение на Tangra Tower удостоено Золотого Ледоруба России 2019 Зимняя экспедиция на Броуд пик / Ерванд Ильинский. Воспоминания. / Тянь-Шань, долина Уллу. Разведка Henry Bizot и Николая Тотмянина. / Третий Броуд. (третья для Дениса Урубко экспедиция на Броуд пик) часть 1 / В Федерации альпинизма Москвы президентом избран Дмитрий Москалев! / Grit&Rock 2020. / Алекс Чикон: штормит в проливе Дрейка. К команде на Ама Даблам присоединился Рамон Портилья / K2 winter expedition will start soon. / Третий Броуд. (третья для Дениса Урубко экспедиция на Броуд пик) часть 2
осень 2019
XVI International Elbrus Race / Адам Белецкий: «Я не сомневаюсь, что восхождение на К2 зимой возможно» Интервью для revistaoxigeno.es / 10ый Юбилейный фестиваль скалолазания в Демир Капия. / Eiger North Face. Master's story. Vladimir Stetsenko. / 100 лет со дня рождения ветерана советского альпинизма Льва Николаевича Филимонова / Марина Клочкова: К2. Как погиб отец. (Сергей Соколов) / Аннапурна III, ЮВ гребень. Попытка восхождения Балабанова, Фомина и Полежайко / Итоги Чемпионата России, класс-высотный икласс высотно-технический / Макс Бонно и Пьер Лаббре погибли на Эгюий-дю-план /В Италии в двенадцатый раз вручалась премия Марчелло Мерони / Владимир Михалко и Ирина Скрилева погибли в Татрах
лето 2019
Аннапурна 1950. "Советский спорт" 1950 о первовосхождении. / Нанда Деви Восточная. 1939 и 2019: успех польских экспедиций / К2. Интервью Миши Даничкина Себастьяну Альваро / Денис Урубко: Гашербрум II, новая линия
весна 2019
Константин Клецко. Итальянские гастроли. / Хуан Пабло Мор (Juan Pablo Mohr): бескислородный гималайский дубль Лхоцзе и Эверест. /«Фрирайд в зоне смерти»: старт в июне-2019. / Аннапурна. О недавних спасах. / презентация книги Дениса Урубко "Погоня за Снежным Барсом" на итальянском. / Кубок Украины по технике альпинизма памяти Игоря Свергуна. / Эверест, Дхаулагири, Аннапурна, Лхоцзе, Khambachen
winter 2019
Winter K2 International Expedition chronicle / Jacek Teler about two teams aiming K2 climb this winter. /Winter K2 International Expedition will start in January
winter- spring 2018
K2. Bogumil Slama - interview for Polskie.Radio.pl / Anna Czerwinska awarded by Super Kolos/ Анна Червинская получила Колосса / K2 Winter. Denis Urubko The normal tropical winter.K2 Winter. Denis Urubko interview "While here I didn't encounter such a terrible wind. There is an opportunity to work". /K2 Winter. Denis Urubko and Adam Bielecki returned to BC after 7400 and 2 njghts at 7200. Interview Adam Bielecki / K2 Winter. Denis Urubko: Ooops! / K2 Winter. Denis Urubko: Bright February / K2 Winter. Denis Urubko: no perspektives on Basques route. / K2 Winter. Adam Bielecki had an accident. He was hit by a stone. Injuries of the nose and forehead. / K2 Winter. The letter from Denis, just after the descent to BC tonight. / Elizabeth Revol told the story about Nanga climb/ / To save means to save. All rescue operations on 8000+, in which Urubko took part 2001-2018 / Nanga Parbat rescue. '
Winter K2 Polish National Expedition/Зимняя польская экспедиция на К2:
Winter Snow Leopard. The team summited Korzhenevskaya peak via new route today!
spring/summer/fall 2017
Yuri Koshelenko, Alexey Lonchinsky first climb of Fangi peak (6538) in Nepal - SE face direct.
XII International Elbrus Race Gasherbrum I. Czeh mountaineers Marek Holecek and Zdrnek Hak climbed new route on SW face. Two interesting climbs in Cordillera Annapurna . Bielecki, Berg, Allen / Dhaulagiri tragedy Marek Raganovicz: two new routes on Baffin Island / Nives Meroi and Romano Benet summited the 14th 8000-er - Annapurna! / Lhotse- Everest Polish Expedition 2017
winter 2017 All winter climbs of 7000-meters peaks belong to Snow leopard program / Semion Dvornichenko . Expedition 2017. Or from 13 till 13. (about duble winter climb Khan Tengri - Pobeda.
Lenin peak Winter. Expedition chronicle /Pobeda peak Winter. Serguey Seliverstov, Mikhail Danichkin, Semion Dvornichenko (Kyrgyzia) and Alexey Usatykh (Russia) summited / Victor Pastukh was borned 60 years ago Khan Tengri Winter Expedition
Fall 2016:
Amangeldy Race 2016 in Memory of Anatoly Boukreev. / XI International Elbrus Race. Oxana Stefanishina set new record: 4 hrs 9 min 39 sec
spring/summer 2016
Snow Leopards in one season 5x7000 m and ski descents / All Piolets D'Or in 2016
winter2015/16
First winter ascent on Nanga Parbat! Alex Txikon, Muhammad Ali Sadpara, Simone Moro (Italy)
2015 Golden Pitons, Mountaineering: NIKITA BALABANOV AND MIKHAIL FOMIN / All winter climbs to Lenin peak Peak Lenin Winter climb. Sergey Seliverstov, Mihkail Danichkin, Roman Abildaev, Alexey Usatyh reached the summit!
Denis Urubko: Elbrus winter, Dec, 2015 Piolet D'Or Russia 2015 awarded to Sergei Nilov, Dmitry Golovchenko, Dmitry Grigorjev for climb to Sedoy Strazh (5481, Tien Shan) / Talung climb by Mikhail Fomin & Nikita Balabanov awarded yesterday as the best Ukrainian climb in 2015 / The party in honour of Anatoli Boukreev took place in Moscow .
Fall 2015:
Kilimanjaro: 86-years-old Russian woman has set Guinness record / Talung, 7439m, Nepal. Michail Fomin and Nikita Balabanov (Ukraine) made the first climb via northwest buttress. / Kyzyl Asker. Slovenian expedition to western Kookshal Too. Swiss trio climb three virgin summits in India's Kashmir Himalaya Lhotse 1990 Expedition - 25 anniversary! (Lhotse South Face climb) The story by Gennady KopeikaThulagi (7095 m) had been climbed by fourpersons team from Saint Petersburg 9 Alexander Gukov, valery Shamalo, Ivan Dozhdev and Ruslan Kirichenko) . / X International Elbrus Race. / Sasha DiGiulian and Carlo Traversi Climb the Eiger North Face
Huandoy Sur, Peru. Alexander Ruchkin and Vjacheslav Ivanov died on the descent on Huandoy Sur South face.
Summer 2015:
Snow Leopard with ski descents. Italian CarlAlberto Cimenti completed the program 2013 - Lenin Peak, Korzhenevskaya, Khan Tengri. 2014 -Pobeda peak (August, 13). 2015 -Communism peak(August, 19).X International Elbrus Race / Ushba. Mikhail Melnikov, 53, Snow Leopard, Everest and Nanga summiteer, lost yesterday on Ushba, Myshlyaev route, in Georgia . Gasherbrum II. Olek Ostrovski missed on ski descent... / Denis Urubko. The Wortex. The first ascent on Mt. Reaper in Alaska
Spring 2015:
Ushba, 1973. The retro film about the climb led by Vladimir Monogarov Dean Potter Killed in Wingsuit BASE Jumping Accident. ./Kazakhstan mountaineer, Ural Usenov (85), died yesterday in Almaty. /
The earthquake in Nepal. The Tragedy. Piolets D'Or were awarded to three teams: Americans Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold for Fitz Roy traverese, Russians Aleksander Gukow and Alexey Lonchinsky for the first climb of Shy Girl route on Thamserku (6618 m), and Slovenians Ales Cesen, Luka Lindic and Marko Prezelj for the first climb on Hagshu (6657 m). Piolet for the Life-time-achievement awarded to Sir Chris Bonington. Annapurna. 13 climbers summited/ Gennady Durov died yesterday during the climb . /Winter expedition to Pobeda peak is over .Nanga Parbat. Alex Txikon, Ali "Sadpara", Daniele Nardi & Muhammad Khan descended to BC. Successful rescue. Expedition is over. / Piolet D'Or 2015. / Denis Urubko: The true winter on 8000ers. Which climbs can be considered as "winter".
winter2014/15
Winter expedition to Pobeda peak, devoted to 70th anniversary of the Great Victory over the fasсizm in II WW, began yesterday. The leader of the project - Ervand Iljinsky (Almaty). The Kazakh team/Boris Korshunov , the unique 9-time Snow Leopard, who's about 80, did his 83rd Elbrus climb Jan, 8, when the temperature was -50C. /American climber Lonnie Dupre became the first to climb solo McKinley in January. /Elbrus. Denis Urubko reached the West top Jan, 8 /Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition. Piolet D'Or Russia: Alexey Lonchinsky and Alexander Gukov awarded for Tamserku climb
Fall 2014:
Denis Urubko: interview for ExWEb before the start of K2 Winter Expedition / India, Kashmir. Kopteva & Chibitok climbed virgin North-West Face of Golden Sentinel (5200 м). The route named as "Samurai's daughter". Gasherbrum V. The first ascent by Korean team Shishapangma Avalanche: Andrea Zambaldi and Sebastian Haag disappear, Martin Maier survives Manaslu. Today Polish alpinist Andrzej Bargiel set new record: he reached the top in 14 hrs 5 min from the base camp. Congrats! Ararat. Sep, 12, Russian-Ukrainian mini-expedition reached the top of holy Ararat (5137 m).
Summer 2014:
Shafat fortress. India, Kashmir. Kopteva & Chibitok are heading to the first climb./ K2. A lot of summits! /K2 Base Camp – the highest meteorological climate monitoring station/ Yosemity National Park celebtates 150th birthday/ The first Nepali women team climbed Denali, Chunu Shrestha, Pema Diki Sherpa, Asha Kumari Singh, Niomdoma Sherpa/Pakistan K2 Expedition Kilian Jornet set Denali record: ascent +descent 11 hrs 48 min!
Spring 2014:
Jing Wang summited Everest from South side! / Kangchenjunga, normal route. Jorge Egocheaga and Martin Ramos summited without bottled oxygen, at 10-00 May, 18/ Cho Oyu (8201) MAI team summited: Yuri Kruglov, Mikhail Volkov, Nick Sinjushin, Anna Frankevich, Anna Tsvetova and Pavel Tsvetov./ Kangchenjunga NW Face.
Thamserku (6623 m) SW Face Alexey Lonchinsky and Alexander Gukov did the first climb on the SW Face. /Ukrainian expedition (Odessa alpclub) . Yuri Kilichenko wrote, that the team climbed new route on Lobuche.
Everest. The huge avalanche struck at about 6:45am local time at an altitude of about 5,800 metres.13 Sherpas deaths and 3 Sherpas missing. All climbing activities are shut down on the Nepalese/South side of Everest/
The Piolets d'Or 2014 was awarded to two ascents: the NW Face of K6 (Canadians Raphael Slawinsky and Ian Welsted) and the South Face of Annapurna solo (Swiss Ueli Steck). The South Face of Annapurna ascent (Stephane Benoist and Yannick Graziani) received a Special Mention, while Lifetime Achievement award was given to John Roskelley. /Winter Climbing Nanga Parbat | An Unfinished Anecdote Jing Wang: 7 summits +2 poles program
Winter 2014:
February, 16, Chad Kellogg killed by rockfall in Patagonia./ Nanga Parbat Winter
Fall 2013:
Russsian Piolet D'Or awarded to Alexander Ruchkin and Vjacheslav Ivanov for Kusum Kanguru climb (new route "Falling into the Void").
Tengmoche (Tengkangpoche). Nepal. Women trio for the new route. Marina Kopteva, Galina Chibitok and Anastasia Petrova /Ueli Steck summits Annapurna, alone up South Face.
VIII International Elbrus Race. Results. Kilian Jornet and Vitaly Shkel reached the finish line at 5000 m simultaneously: 2 hrs 37 min 06 sec VIII International Elbrus Race. Press release
Summer 2013:
Cerro Torre climbed in winter. Stephan Siegrist, Dani Arnold, Thomas Huber and Matias Villavicencio has made an outstanding and extremely rare winter ascent by climbing Via dei Ragni and summiting on 30 July.Tengmoche. Nepal. Women trio for the new route. Marina Kopteva, Galina Chibitok and Anastasia Petrova! Khan Tengri. Aug, 19 Krasnoyarsk team (Pugovkin, Yanushevich, Kalita, Zhigalov) climbed Sviridenko route / Kilian Jornet has now run up the Matterhorn Lion ridge, from Cervinia centre in 2hrs 52mins/ Vladimir Suviga 60! Elbrus records: Andrzej Bargiel , Svetlana Sharipova , Anton Proshenko ./Denis Urubko is 40! The jubilee interwiev (on Russian)
К2. Marty Schmidt and his son, Denali, have been killed by an avalanche at Camp 3. have found their tent, damaged by the avalanche. /Gasherbrum I. Spanish climbers Xevi Gomez, Alvaro Paredes and Abel Alonso reached the top. Guys were officially announced died.
Peak Pogrebetskogo. Kazakhs Gennady Durov and Murat Otepbaev climbed the new route.
Nanga Parbat. Romanians summited Marius Gane, Teo Vlad, Zsolt Torok and Aurel Salasan
Gasherbrum I. Artur Hajzer missed. / the awful tragedy happened in Nanga Parbat BC (Diamir Face) June, 22. Taliban gunmen murdered ten foreign mountaineers and a Pakistani cook. The list of victims: Ukrainians Igor Svergun, Kashaev Badawi, Konyaev Dmitry, Chineses Rao Jianfeng, Yang Chunfeng, Honglu Chen, Lithuanian, Ernestas Marksaitis, Nepali Sona Sherpa, Pakistani Ali Hussain, Slovaks Anton Dobes и Peter Sperka... My deepest condolences...
Spring 2013: Denis Urubko wrote the detailes of Alex Bolotov's death 15 May, 2013 Alexey Bolotov died on Everest at 5600.
Lhotse. Trio from S. Petersburg
Everest SW Face in alpine style. /Kyajo Ri: Marina Kopteva and Vladimir Belousov climbed new route on East ridge.
Denis Urubko "Khumbu Wars" /Andrey Verkhovod: Denis Urubko and Alexei Bolotov: The Everest new route Game Plan
Controversially, the Jury of the 2013 Piolets d'Or has awarded all six nominated ascents a Piolet D'Or
Piolet D'Or 2013. the 5th Piolets dOr Lifetime Achievement awarded to Kurt Diemberger.
English winter attempt of Russian route on Eiger North Face / First complete traverse of the Torres del Paine
The last surviving Everest 1st ascent team member George Lowe has passed away in England aged 89yr
XXI Piolet D'Or nominees. /Simone Moro about the drama on Broad Peak and winter mountaineering in the Himalaya
Winter 2013: Broad peak winter climb / Nanga Parbat winter attempt / Chhurim Sherpa Guinness Record / Denis Urubko
Fall 2012: VII International Elbrus Race. Results and photogallery from the summit and award ceremony. / Annapurna avlanche
Summer 2012: BASK company jubilee - 20! / Andy Houseman and Nick Bullock climb Slovak Direct on Denali Karl Unterkircher Award won by women Great Trango Tower expedition / Denis Urubko welcomed the athletes of VII International Elbrus Race /
Spring 2012: Gasherbrum I Winter expedition / Simone Moro found the body of Russian climber Alexey Gorbatenkov on TengKampoche Face.
Winter 2012: K2 Winter Russian expedition. / Nanga Parbat winter expedition. /
Fall 2011: K2 Winter Russian expedition. /The women Piolet D'Or team interview: Marina Kopteva, Galina Chibitok and Anna Yasinskaya. 38 days in the Parallel World.
Gennady Durov about p. Pobeda climb (August, 2011): "I tried not to look up only in front of me..."
Summer 2011: Denis Urubko about the new route on Pobeda peak K2 from the China: International team /Latok III. / Nanga Parbat. Kyrgyz-Russian team / Elbrus lady-champions became the Ternua Female Team - Gasherbrums 2011.
Spring 2011: Greenland. The dream of virgin walls. Alexander Ruchkin and Mikhail Mikhailov / Kangchenjunga. Russian expedition
Tulagi, Bielorussian Himalaya Expedition. / Alexander Ruchkin: "Search bold, and you will find many magical peaks ...."
Winter 2011: Gasherbrum II Winter expedition.
November 2010: International Mountain Summit (IMS),
September 2010: The top results 2005-2010.
VI International Elbrus Race. The results on Extreme and Classic routes./ New hut on the col between Elbrus tops
August 2010: Elbrus Race - the gate to the real altitude VI International Elbrus Race: Girls will run for the first time in "Extreme" class!
Artur Hajzer interview: I want to build the team for Himalaya Winter climbs. Interview with Israfil Ashurly.
June - July 2010: Karakorum, Amin Brakk, Women expedition. Sivera supports VI International ELBRUS RACE.
April - May 2010: Lhotse, Russian expedition.
1-st Everest Sherpa wall climbing competition. Annapurna 2010 / New Route on Matterhorn. Father-and-son
March 2010: Lhotse, Russian expedition. Makalu, Ukraine expedition. SW Face new route attepmt.
January 2010: Kwangde Lho, David Falt and Vassily Pivtsov. New route isn't real, they'll try Russian route.
Cerro Torre. Italian Fabio Giacomelli died in an avalanche January 1 at the base of Cerro Torre.
October - December 2009: 8 nominees for Piolet D'Or Russia 2009. The ceremony will be Dec, 5 in Moscow ??????? ???????, ??????, 2009. ?????????? ????? ??????? ??????????
"The fourth girl" - Russians climbed new route on Siguniang, 6250 m, / Gleb Sokolov: New route to Pobeda.
Film about K2 West Face expedition (2007) awarded by Gold Alpine Camera om mountain film festival in Graz. ????? "??????? ????? ?2" ??????? ???? "??????? ?????? 2009" ?? ????????????? ????????????? ? ?????
Denis Urubko and Boris Dedeshko awarded Piolet D'Or Asia 2009 for their climb (Cho Oyu, SE Face) in alpine style! ????? ?????? ? ????? ??????? ???????? ??????? ??????? ???? ?? ??????????? ?? ?? ???
Kazakh skyrunner Andrew Puchinin set Kilimandjaro speed climb record: 5 hrs 24 min 40 sec. ?????? ??????? (??????) ????????? ?????? ?? ????????????
Jasemba South Face first climb in Alpine Style
September 2009: Elbrus Race top results 2005-2009. Statistics by Rodrigo Granzotto Peron V International ELBRUS RACE results. New record on Classic route. Ukrainian young lady Maria Khitrikova, Italian Colli Tibaldi Luca, Czech Marhan Milan, Russian Roman Gubanov and others will try to win V International ELBRUS RACE... "Balyberdin" Elbrus races (1989-90). The story by American climber Kevin Cooney about the competition in 1990 "Balyberdin" Elbrus races (1989-90). The story how the idea of mountain speed ascent contest had occurred in USSR. XXIII Rock Master
June - July 2009: Austrian speedclimber Christian Stangl back to K2 this year - for the speed climb record on Abruzzi route.
The 8th Rock Junior will take place at Arco (Garda Trentino, Italy) on Saturday 6 and Sunday 7 June 2009.
April- May 2009: E-Gongga, 6618 ?. /Cho Oyu (8203 m), South-East Face. First climb in alpine style. Denis Urubko and Boris Dedeshko.
March 2009: Winter Himalaya climb. Denis Urubko interview about Makalu 2009 expedition.
Januar y 2009: Winter Makalu expedition.
Ueli Steck climbed Matterhorh in 2 hrs 56 min
December 2008: Eugeny Beletsky - the Russian mountaineering legend (1908 - 1979) Denis Urubko. Makalu rules. (Before the start Makalu winter expedition with Simone Moro) /????? ??????. ??????? ??????
September 2008: IV International Elbrus Race. Press release. International Elbrus Race 2008
July 2008: Denis Urubko. Annapurna days.
May 2008: Annapurna. Serguey Bogomolov Makalu (Urubko team) Annapurna. International Expedition. INCREDIBLE RESCUE ?????????, ?????? ?????????, ??????? ???????. ?????? ?????? ????. ??????, ??????? ??????????
March - April 2008: Annapurna. Serguey Bogomolov Makalu (Urubko team)
January - February 2008: Patagonia. Rolando Garibotti and Colin Haley did the first ever traverse of Torre Kazakh Makalu Winter attempt ?????? ??????????? ?? ??????: ??????? ??????? ?????????? Caucasus Women's cup Broad peak: Simone Moro's attempt.
November - December 2007:
Tomas Humar: New Alpine Solo Route on the South Face of Annapurna. ???? ?????? ?????? ?? ?????????
First Russian Piolet D'Or for 2007 best Russian climb ??????? ??????? ?????? 2007 ???????? ??????? ?? ??????????? ???????? ????? ?2
September - October 2007: Denis Urubko - Serguey Samoilov: K2 new route from the North. International Elbrus Race 2007.
August 2007 K2 NW ridge Kazakhstan expedition.K2 West Face expedition . Denis Urubko - Serguey Samoilov: K2 new route from the North.
July 2007: ?????????? ??????? ?????????? ?? ?2 ? ?????? K2 West Face expedition . ?????????? ??????? ??????? ?????? ?? ?2 ?? ???????? ????? Denis Urubko - Serguey Samoilov: K2 new route from the North. / ?????????? ?????? ?????? ? ?????? ????????? ?? ?2 (??????? ??????????? ?? ????????? ?????) http://www.russianclimb.com/russian/krasnoyarsk_broad.html ?????????? ??????? ??????????? ?? ??????
?????????? ?????? ?? ?2 ?? ????????
July 2005: ???????? ???????? ?? ???????? ????? ?2 / Reconnaissance K2 West Face route
2002: Meru Central Peak (6310m), Valery Babanov won
Piolet d'Or 2002 / / Khan
Tengri Winter climb KAZAKHSTAN KANGCHENJUNGA
EXPEDITION North
Face of Troll Wall Lhotse- Saint Petersburg - 2002 Expedition /film
"Russian 8000-peak"
???????????????? ?????? ??????????: САНТЕХНИЧЕСКИЕ РАБОТЫ В ПЕТЕРБУРГЕ
