Double: Dhaulagiri and Annapurna
by Kazakhstan Mountaineering Federation
guys summited about 4-00 p.m.
climbers Maxut Zhumayev & Vassily Pivtsov summited Annapurna
via French route today at 9-20 (Moscow time). They climb in Alpine
style in 5 days. Started at midnight, the weather was great! Too
much snow, they had to trail deep break to the summit. This's 10th
8000-er for Max and Vassily.
started at 5 a.m. from Camp 3. Climbed 1 pitch on the ice and began
to climb left upper icefall. At 7 a.m. strong wind began, then snow,
clouds and low (20 m) visibility. We set Camp 4 at 7315 m. Were
obliged to trail break. We're fine and hope for fine weather tomorrow.
3. SMS 14-45 Almaty. Crossed
icefall and set Camp 3 under the serak at 6650 m. A lot of dangerous
2. SMS 13-25 Almaty. We
managed a reconnaissance under the icefall. Crossed it early morning,
when it cold yet. Now we sit in the tent. There's hot outdoor. Set
Camp 2 at 5700 at the snow plateau.
1. Began to climb. Crossed the icefall. We're resting at 5050
m. We set Camp 1. There're a lot of crewasses at the firn field
we need to do the reconnaissance the way through the icefall to
Camp 1. Here're only we, nobody else.
We reached ABC (4154 m)
Maxut called from the BC: We descended to the Base Camp yesterday
evening, very tired. Our bagpacks were 25 kg, we had to fixed all
ropes from Camp 2 till the top. We carried many ropes, but it wasn't
enough - we had to dig out some old ropes from the snow, and to
bring them up and to fix in difficult sites. Now the whole route
at the West ridge is fixed.
2-nd 6600 m
3-rd 7200 m
4-th 7400 m
We left Camp 4 (7400) at 00-30 a.m. and reached the top of the West
ridge about 1-00 p.m. - there we catched the extremely bad weather
with very strong wind and a thunder-storm. At the top we were about
4-00 p.m. and descended to our tent at 7400 in 7-00 p.m. It appeared
that our tent is copletely burried by the snow, we had to dig it
out. Only about 9-00 p.m. we finished the work and could to enter
we are going to gp down to Marpha, and futher do the trekking to
Annapurna Base Camp. If the weather'll be good enough, we hope to
reach BC in 10 days. Greetings to all!
Maxut and Vassily descended to the Bace Camp. They catched the strongest
thunder-storm - lightnings beat directly on the summit. Thanks God,
all was OK. They're save and sound in the base, and going to continue