HIMALAISTS ATTACK K2 IN WINTER
Two weeks after leaving Poland we should arrive at the K2 glacier.
From there, we will have to carry the equipment on our backs for
two days. A base at 5100 m will be our home for two months. Today
is bidding farewell.
Eve among camels
Monday, December 16, the very first winter expedition in history
will set out from Karakorum to reach K2 (8611 m) from its northern,
Chinese side. The international team of alpinists will be headed
by Krzysztof Wielicki. "Rzeczpospolita" will be reporting
on the course of the expedition.
expedition will be an exceptional one. K2 is called the Mountain
of Mountains not by accident. The 8000er, which is extremely hard
for climbing, is generally considered one of the hardest summits
in the world to defeat. The history of struggle for reaching it
has brought it the name of the Cruel of Merciless Mountain. The
adventure awaiting the expedition is to a large extent unpredictable,
despite careful planning. The trip to the foot of K2 alone can bring
along many surprises.
fly from Warsaw to Asia through London. At four a.m. next day we
are supposed to land in the capital of Kyrgyzstan - Bishkek, on
many maps still billed as Frunze, which comes from the name of a
Red Army leader. The former fortress of the Kokan Khanate bore this
name for a few dozen years, since the beginning of the Soviet reign
in 1926. In Bishkek, another four expedition participants will join
us: Gia Tortladze from Georgia, Denis Urubko and Vassiliy Pivtsov
from Kazakhstan and Ilias Thukvatulin from Uzbekistan. After loading
up the truck with equipment, we will be moving on the very same
will be driving through beautiful and interesting landscapes. They
were part of Chingis Khan's empire, China, Russia. We will pass
the huge Lake Issyk-Kul, situated at 1600 m, surrounded by a ring
of 4000er summits. We will have to claw our way through the huge
Tien-Shan Mountain Range (2500 km long). Maybe there will be a lot
of snow on the roads already. We are taking shovels with us - we
will be digging our way through.
are supposed to cross the border between Kyrgyzstan and China on
the Torugart pass (3752 m). Here we will repack the equipment to
local trucks, since the Chinese will no let foreign expedition personnel
onto their territory. We will drive down to the edge of the Takla
Makan Desert, to the ancient Kashgar Osasis, the famous bazaar on
the Silk Route. From there, we will go by trucks in the direction
of Karakorum, the Earth's second highest mountain range after the
Himalayas, which are 200 km away.
range's name is misleading: kara means black, korum means scree.
Magnificent glaciers are located there, taller than the ones in
the Himalayas, such as Hispar (61 km), or Baltoro (58 km) and Siachen
(75 km), both located near K2, the latter one being the longest
and roughest due to long-term fights over the Kashmir region between
Pakistan, India and China.
the tiny settlement of Mazdar we will change to camels and set off
south, higher and higher, repeatedly crossing the meandering Shaksgam
River, swift and dangerous in summer. At this time of year, however,
it is shallow and partly frozen, which we learned from the reconnaissance
carried out two years ago. We will probably spend Christmas Eve
in the caravan. Even earlier, we are going to try to send pictures
and reports from our journey. The day before Christmas Eve, we will
do everything in our power to be able to talk through the satellite
phone and share the Christmas wafer.
weeks after leaving Poland, we should arrive at the K2 glacier.
From there, we will have to carry the equipment on our backs for
two days. For the next two months, a base at 5100 m will be our
home, probably from New Year's Eve on. Weather permitting, one can
clearly see K2's northern slope from the base - one of the world's
most horrifying mountain precipices, with the clearly visible edge
of the Northern Pillar. The alpinists want to ascend this 4 km high
pillar to the summit which has never been reached yet in winter.
From the base, we should be sending everyday reports home and elsewhere.
The interest in the expedition is very strong. The struggle to reach
the virgin K2 summit in the summer season lasted 52 years. Americans
and Europeans competed with each other for the victor's palm - eventually
it was the Italians who reached the summit first. Alpinists will
use the way that has been marked out by the Japanese. We have received
requests from several countries on three continents to allow them
to reprint our reports.
Flag no 162
expedition has been granted a special privilege. We will take the
Explorers Club flag with us, an international association that will
celebrate its centenary in two years' time. It was established in
New York to support and popularize the exploration of Earth, ocean
depths and outer space. It is also dedicated to "serve as a
meeting point and unifying force for explorers and scientists worldwide"
above all frontiers and divisions, as stated in the declaration
from the year 1904. Among its members were or still are, among others,
the first explorers of the Poles: Roald Amudsen and Robert Peary,
the astronauts Buzz Aldrin and Neil Armstrong, the sailor Thor Heyerdahl,
the ocean explorer Robert Ballard, the researcher of the life of
gorillas Diane Fossey, the head of the victorious Mount Everest
Expedition - Lord John Hunt and the conquerors of summits Tenzing
Norgay Sherpa and Sir Edmund Hillary - present Honorary Chairman
of the Club. The first honorary members were the polar explorer
Sir Ernest Shackleton, as well as president Theodore D. Roosevelt.
Today, The Explorers Club has around 3000 members gathered in 27
branches on several continents. Together with Krzysztof Wielicki,
we belong to the Polish branch. Among our members was also Andrzej
Zawada, who died two years ago - he was the initiator of winter
himalaism, to whose memory the present expedition to K2 is dedicated.
granted for important events are a significant element of The Explorers
Club's tradition. Each one of them has a number and its own story.
Each one is accompanied by a detailed report on the course and achievements
of the expedition. A flag accompanied people during their first
trip to the moon; one was on the space shuttle Columbia during its
maiden voyage, Ballard also had one when he reached the wreck of
the "Titanic". The one which we take along our K2 Winter
Expedition has the number 162. It was witness to scientific research
in the ice of the Arctic and the Antarctic, the Belize and the Amazon
Jungle, it climbed in the tropical mountains of Cambodia and traveled
the last corners of India. It is faded and worn through, for 42
years it has been accompanying generations of people with the desire
to get to know and describe the secrets of our world. After us,
others will take it over.
following people will participate in the Netia K2 Polish Winter
Expedition 2002/2003: Krzysztof Wielicki, head of the expedition,
Jacques Oles, deputy head of the expedition, Roman Mazik, physician,
Bogdan Jankowski, communications, Maciej Pawlikowski, Jacek Berbeka,
Jerzy Natkanski, Dariusz Zaluski, Jan Szulc, Marcin Kaczkan, Piotr
Morawski, Gia Tortladze, Denis Urubko, Vassiliy Pivtsov, Ilias Thukvatulin.
They will be assisted by a group of mountaineers essential for the
transport of equipment on the glacier: Bartosz Duda, Piotr Kubicki,
Jacek Teler, Jacek Jawien, Mikolaj Zielinski and the veteran of
many expeditions, Zbigniew Terlikowski, the head of the base. They
will be joined by five experienced porters from Pakistan: Aslam
Khan, Doulat Amin, Aman Ali Shah, Sarwar Khan, Rehmat Ali.
members of the expedition have already experienced winter in the
Himalayas and climbed 8000ers. Krzysztof Wielicki reached in winter
three of the four highest 8000ers first: Mount Everest, Kangchedzonga
and Lhotse. He stood on the latter alone in the night of New Year's
Eve. During summer seasons, he impressed with his style of conquering
the Crown of the Himalayas. He "ran up" to Broad Peak
alone in one day (which was the world's first climb on an 8000er
in a day). He climbed alone on Dhaulagiri (in 16 hours) and Shisha
Pangma, marking out new routs. Nobody accompanied him when he was
reaching the summits of Gasherbrum II and Nanga Parbat, either.
Wielicki knows K2 from all sides. He participated in four expeditions
to this mountain. In the summer of 1996, he reached the top through
the Northern Pillar with two Italian alpinists.
Pawlikowski has supported around a dozen expeditions into the highest
mountains. He has helped others to reach the top six times. He himself
has reached the summit of an 8000er only once - in the winter of
1985 on Cho Oyu, using an exceptionally difficult route, which has
not been repeated until now. He participated in the only winter
expedition to K2 from the Pakistani side, headed by Andrzej Zawada.
Dr Roman Mazik, a speleologist, was also a member of that expedition,
who in his every day life works as surgeon in Zakopane and rescuer
in the Voluntary Tatra Mountain Rescue Team. 8000er summits have
also been also reached by: Jerzy Natkanski (Gasherbrum II), Darek
Zaluski (Gasherbrum II, Cho Oyu, Lhotse), Jacek Berbeka (Alpine
style and solo: Gasherbrum I, Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma; only defeated
in this style on Gasherbrum II, accompanied by Krzysztof Wielicki,
Carlos Carsolio and Ed Viesturs).
Urubko has been the best alpinist from Kazakhstan for four years,
and is one of the most outstanding himalaists of present days. Without
oxygen, he has reached the summits of six 8000ers (Mount Everest,
Kangchedzonga, Lhotse, Gasherbrums I and II, Shisha Pangma), eleven
7000ers, although it is enough to conquer five of them in order
to get the title of a "Snow Leopard". He won that title
within 42 days. He is a professionals athlete, beating records concerning
the speed of climbing high summits without oxygen.
fellow countryman, Vassiliy Pivtsov, reached the summits of Kangchenjunga,
Shisha Pangma and both Gasherbrums without using supplementary oxygen.
The Khan-Tengri 7000er looks like his training field - he has climbed
it on numerous occasions from different sides.
second "Snow Leopard" in this team is the Georgian Gia
Tortladze, who also has stood six times on the top of 8000ers (Shisha
Pangma, Dhaulagiri, Cho Oyu, Mount Everest). He reached the highest
summit on Earth twice. The first time, he took pictures of 12 people
standing on top. After returning to the base, he found out that
his climb did not count, because he did not touch the top of the
mountain with his foot. So he went back there once again two years
Tukhvatulin from Uzbekistan climbed Mount Everest. He specializes
in climbing technically extremely difficult slopes, also in winter,
in Pamir and Tien-Shan. His achievements have received such wide
recognition that he has been invited by Russians to participate
in the Mount Everest expedition next year. The 50th Anniversary
of conquering Everest is to be celebrated by the attempt to climb
through a new route on the North Face.
manufacturer and cameras
Olek lives in Canada. Although he does not climb himself, it was
largely thanks to him and his friendship with Andrzej Zawada that
the only winter expedition to K2 so far took place - one of the
longest, biggest and most expensive ones (1 million dollars) - along
with a victorious one to Cho Oyu in winter. Those experiences have
changed his life - in order to pay back the debts incurred for the
undertaking, he became a businessman, supporting from this moment
on Polish expeditions.
winter expedition to K2 will be accompanied by a six-person TV team
from Telewizja Polska (Polish Television). From December 6, 2003
on, direct transmissions from Karakorum will be shown on TVP 1.
For the first time in the history of Polish himalaism, the expedition
has its producer. Similar to the way the French went about it half
a century ago, the Polish Alpinism Association entrusted a specialized
company with collecting funds and numerous organizational matters.
The company's name is Cosmos Entertainment. It's representative,
an alpinist himself, goes to the mountains, too.
who has been supporting the Polish program of winter exploration
of the highest mountains, considers this expedition also as an opportunity
to remind of the history of conquering the Himalayas and Karakorum.
Soon, a hitherto unknown interview with Andrzej Zawada about the
first winter expedition to K2 is going to be published, which for
five years had to be hidden in the drawer. We will also write on
the history of struggling with K2: the heroism, the meanness, the
bravery, expeditions ending up in front of the judge, triumphs and
tragedies. Climbing this beautiful, fascinating and cruel mountain
has always stirred up extreme emotions. -
Monika Rogozinska, the correspondent of "Rzeczpospolita"