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Nanga Parbat (8126 m), Broad Peak (8046 m) and K2 (8611 m) Kazakhstan Expedition
Summer 2003

27 July, 2003 Information from Andalusian team (transmitted by ExplorersWeb):

This morning at 02.30 a.m. the International/Kazakh team left K2 Camp 4 (app. 7800 m) for a summit push in very hard winds. The weather forecasts didn-t look good and unfortunately they had to give up and return to C4 at K2-s shoulder. Monday and Tuesday the winds are expected to increase further, close to hurricane force.

Due to the stormy conditions the Andalusians also aborted their summit attempt and descended towards BC.

Simone Moro:

The bad weather stopped Denis Urubko and his team at 7800 mt. (C4). Now they are in the tend in the last camp waiting for better conditions and I spoke with them this morning at 8 a.m.

Wind and clouds reduced the visibilty at 20/30 mt and they had been obliged to wait in the tend since tomorrow. At Camp 3 7200 mt another team of Kazak climbers are in the same conditions...waiting.

If tomorrow nothing will change they have to take some decision.

Now I-m in Broad Peak base camp after slep in camp 3. I follow the advise of the weather report and this time I had been lucky.... In any case I hope that the weather will help my friends and members on K2 and could be wonderfulif they can come back with the summit....

Ciao Simone Moro


26 July, 2003 Information from Andalusian site:

Yesterday evening Urubko, Zhumayev, Pivtsov and Chumakov reached Camp 3. Today the're planning to set Camp 4, and summit bid - on Sunday. The second Kazakhstan group - Lavrov, Raspopov, Bogomolov and Tortladze (Georgia) reached Camp 2. They're planning to summit on Monday.

Earlier, yesterday morning, 6-00 (Pakistani time) Urubko, Simone, first Kazakhstan group, and czechs Minarik, Mazek and Jaros reached Camp 2, and second Kazakhstan group and two Andalusian climbers were following them.

Simone Moro:

After 2 days on the K2 face carrying to camp 3 all the climbing equipment to fix camp 4 and the bottle neck, I return back to Broad Peak base camp 4900 mt to take rest. Denis Uruko was with me till camp 3 and he remained there to wait a team of Kazakhstan and together go to camp 4 and if the weather will be good also to attempt the summit.

I will do my attempt to K2 around 4 august probably with Inaki Ochoa. After 2 month in Pakistan for Nanga Parbat and Broad peak we need to get all aur power to try safety K2. I saw too many slow people on the mountain and the danger of accident jump on you very easely if you are in that phisical conditions....

Simone, July 26

24 July, 2003 Ervand Iljinsky:

Today the K2 climb begins. The first group, which consists of two trios (Urubko - Moro- Ochoa and Zhumayev- Pivtsov - Chumakov) leaved Base Camp. The second group (Lavrov - Raspopov - Bogomolov - Tortladze) will begin to climb tomorrow The weather is fine, but begins become worse, but all members hope the success.

Vassily Litvinov has some problems with his eyes, and doctors didn't recommend him to continue the climb. It seems, that the expedition is over for Vassily.

Ervand Iljinsky, K2 Base Camp, July 23, 13-30 (Almaty time)