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Nanga Parbat (8126 m), Broad Peak (8046 m) and K2 (8611 m) Kazakhstan Expedition
Summer 2003

30 July, 2003 Simone Moro:

Today all the members of Kazakhstan team came back to Base Camp. They said that they are quite tired and there is now new snow on the K2 .... In fact we get also big rain at 5000 meters this night and it means snowfall in higher altitude. Today is the birthday of Denis Urubko and he is now 30 years old. Tomorrow he will visit us at Broad Peak base camp and he'll spend here some days. Here's more relaxing situation and far of the "competitions" and strategies of K2 climb. Now we need to rest and not to be involved in the stress of the tactic theories. We will start to attempt K2 around August,4 if the weather will change. In case it'll remain like in the last days, I have to start to prepare my baggage because the August 9/10 I have to leave the base camp. The August 15 I will have the flight to Italy.....

Simone Moro, July 29, 4-42 p.m.

And Happy Birthday - again!

Today's the Birthday of Dmitry Chumakov - he's 25 today! The modest Candidate to Master of Sports, he's only doing his first steps in Himalaya Mountaineering, but what steps! Look: June 17- Nanga Parbat, July 16 - Broad Peak, now he's about the top of K2... Keep it up! I think, this is the first time, when climber has such beginning of his "Himalaya career". Dima, get our congratulations! We wish you final success in this Expedition and more - in further ones...

July 30, 2003

29 July, 2003 Today's Denis' Birthday!

Denis Urubko is thirty today. Greetings, Denis! Many happy returns of the day! We wish you to realize all your bold ideas, be always healthy and happy and full of energy, have a support of your friends and relatives. We wish you a lot of success in mountain, good partners and generous sponsors. You 'll reach all you want in your life. Because you are Urubko.

July 29, 2003


Ervand Iljinsky:

The first group left Camp 4 and reached 8300 m, but was obliged to return to Camp 4 - very bad weather, no visibility. Both groups are descending to Base Camp and will attempt the summit bid after the weather improvement. It's snowing in the Base Camp too.

Ervand Iljinsky, K2 Base Camp, July 28, 5-30 p.m. (Almaty time)

Simone Moro:

The weather had been exactly as the report said some days ago. The climber that didn't belived in that and who had been on Abruzzi Spur in the last 3 days, had been obliged to resist at the snowfall, wind and avalanche danger. The 2 Kazak team at 7800 m C4 and 7200 m C3 stopped for 2 nights on the camps and only the first team this morning tried to go to the summit with stormy weather and they stopped at 8200 for the high danger and crazy weather conditions. I personally think they took risks for nothing....!! I hate the illogic decision and heroism but it is only a personal opinion. K2 tragedy of 1986 and Everest 1996 probably didn't teach anything.

Now all the climbers on K2 are coming back but is not clear if they will be back to BC or they stopped in low camps on the route. I hope for me and for the the friends that I have in the Kazakhstan team that the weather will return to be nice and the condition of the mountain safe. In that case will be a pleasure to try K2, the king of the 8000.

Simone Moro July 28, 5-44 p.m.