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Nanga Parbat (8126 m), Broad Peak (8046 m) and K2 (8611 m) Kazakhstan Expedition
Summer 2003

 

June 6, 2003 Serguey Lavrov from the BC:

June 01 - we reached the Base Camp on 4100, set tents. Doing our camp more comfortable. We couldn't send the information immediately, because charged the big accumulator.

June 02 - Early morning Baglan came down with one guide and one porter. Italians, Spaniards and American stands near us.

June 03 - We went to Camp 1(4700) by two groups. Set one tent under the rock. One group (Urubko, Zhumayev, Pivtsov and Chumakov) stayed in Camp1, other group came down to the BC.

June 4

June 4, 2003 News from Simone Moro:

The route till camp 2 is going well and we are still fixing rope. In spite of we are here in the base camp 4 days only, the work of fixing ropes and high-altitude camp are going very well. We make daily rotation of team of 4 climbers. Tomorrow will be the last day of work for the kazakh team and then we will continue that work.

Our plan is to fix Camp 2 within 2 days and continue as higher as we can. We want to use these days of good weather and good phisical conditions.

Ciao

Simone, June 4 14-17 pm

Simone and Denis in Camp 1

 

June 2, 2003 News from Simone Moro:

The map from www.barrabes.com

Hello friends! Everything is going well - thanks the good weather and our good physical condition. I told many times that I never had a so strong team... The day after our arrival to the base camp (4100 mt) we went directly to C1 at 4900 carring tends, food and climbing equipment. We went up in oly 2 hours and back in 30 minutes. Today we went to camp 1 again and we established 3 tents and fixed also 320 meters of the ropes above the Camp 1. So we reached over 5000 meters.
We came back in 25 minutes and we ?run in 1 hours 30 minutes up in the morning. I write you our time of climbing because it's very unusual to be so fast without acclimatization. Now we'll rest for next 2 days. In the meantime 8 Kazakh climbers will work on fixing ropes.

Ciao. Simone, June 2


Camp 1(4900)

June 1, 2003 News from Simone Moro:

Base Camp. Photo - Simone Moro

Finally we arrived in base camp at 4170 meters of altitude. It is a nice place and there is a little snow. Today we put our tents on the dry place we found and now everything it looks Ok. Today afternoon we had a hearthquake and from Mazano ridge very big avalanches came down. From the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat it cames down anything and we supposed that it means that the conditions on the face should be good.

Tomorrow we will go to fix the deposit camp and we will be back in the same day. In the meantime 8 climber of Kazakhstan should arrive here in base camp and our team will be quite complete. Only JC Lafaille will arrive after 4 days. So follow us on the web and I hope to give you good news...

Ciao
Simone