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Nanga Parbat (8126 m), Broad Peak (8046 m) and K2 (8611 m) Kazakhstan Expedition
Summer 2003

June 10, 2003 Simone Moro from the BC:

The nice story about Nanga Parbat with the sun and blue sky finished... It should be wonderful if the sun will continue to shine but the reality in Himalaya and Karakorum is different.

Last nigh we get snowfall and wind and it continued also this morning. Only few hours the snofall stopped and clouds are covering Nanga Parbat and the valley. Our members of Kazakstan spent the night at 6500 meters and fixed rope till that place and they came back to BC. Tomorrow will be a rest day ( also with the good weather) so the sun will melt the snow and avalanches will come down from the diamir face. The next plan for us will be to reach camp 2 and than over 7000 meters and come back. After this step we will organize a strategy for the summit. We will see if our strategies will be the same of our future reality.....


Simone, June 9, 14-59

Oscar and Inaki in the BC

June 9, 2003 Serguey Lavrov from the BC:

We climbed till Camp1 and higher till 5700 m and have fixed ropes. Very big distance betweem Camp1 and Camp2. As written, the Camp2 has to be on 6100 m. The route is visible good enough from the BC in 60x monocular. Today the first group ( Urubko, Pivtsov, Zhumayev and Chumakov) will go up for fixing ropes and setting the Camp2. Next group (Raspopov, Lavrov, Litvinov, Molgachev and Bogomolov) are resting today and preparing for the tomorrow push.

Base Camp is "on the grass", so here are some animals. There are holes of marmots, we see them on mornings - they are very fat and big.

June 7 (

The letter from Oscar Gogorza:

There are certain things about Elite mountaineering that you just have to put up with. You walk to the foot of Nanga Parbat, expecting to spend a couple of months trekking up and down, fixing and equipping camps, carrying gear here and there, sweating... Yeah, that really is what you do, but at an amazing speed and with science-fiction proficiency. Inaki Ochoa de Olza, with the experience of over twenty expeditions and seven 8000m summits in his rucksack, breaths heavily and blows in despair. So does Simone, convinced that he has never has formed part of such a strong team. Numbers don't lie: in seven days since reaching Base Camp, they fixed 2500 mt. of rope, set and equipped Camp I and Camp II; Camp III, at 6800 m, could be ready in two days. The sun beats down, and we are taken by an insane rhythm of working turns: four of us climb, four carry gear, eight rest; and then we change roles. This is more like a relay-race, a time-trial in which each of us look greedily at the stopwatch to check our time. It seems nobody wants to upset their team-mates by not doing his absolute best.

Recently, Simone, Franco y Mirco suffered a sort of 'electric shock': they left Camp I at 5:30 a.m. and climbed, climbed, climbed till they ran out of strength and, luckily for us, out of rope. We were relieved when they were therefore forced to stop. If they'd had more rope, who knows, maybe they would have set up a hand-rail to the very top, and then apologized for it, arguing that they simply didn't notice what they were doing. They fixed ropes along the Kinshofer wall, including V+ pitches at 6.100 mt. high, in an hour and a half.

In a more discreet performance, Inaki, Ed (Viesturs) and I started at six in the morning, loaded with all the gear we needed to set up Camp II. We left our loads at 5.900 m. It was then when a 'missile' called Lafaille reached us, climbing the couloir leading to the Hinshofer wall as if he were shopping in Chamonix. That couloir, 70? steep in some places, commands a feeling of respect and is unsafe and uncomfortableto climb to say the least. Lafaille, on the other hand, seemed delighted with the route. I thought he might even want to savour the moment with a cup of coffee. The Kazakjs team was supposed to rest for a couple of days but, like the Italian trio, they were also affected by an inhuman charge energy. Following orders from their leader, the Russian ex-rock climber Illynsky, coordinates his eight men with rigid military discipline. During our descent, we crossed paths with four of the Kazakjs, the same climbers who have set up Camp II today, along side J.C:Lafaille and Ed VIesturs. Inaki makes calculations on a notepad: if the weather keeps up, on the 17th we could go for the summit. Farther beyond, Broad Peak and K2 are waiting. OSCAR GOGORZA. June 7

Translated from Spanish by Angela Benavides (

Camp 1


Simone Moro:

Kinshofer route

Details of the climbing route

It is really unbelievable good weather. Since our arrival at Base Camp the sun and blu sky are the meteo conditions of our days. In only 7 days we have set camp 1 and 2 and fixed nearly 2500 meters of ropes till 6400 meters ( over camp 2). Yesterday I, Franco and Mirco reached 6400 m fixing rope and studying the route above. Now the technical difficulties shouId be climbed and in the next 2-3 days also camp 3 and probably 7000 meters will be reached...

The Kazakhstan team and us are really a big-friendly group and for that reason we are doing so fast progress. We hope tho have so nice weather and good physical condition for the next 2 weeeks and something good will happen on Nanga Parbat...

Ciao. Simone, June 7