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Nanga Parbat (8126 m), Broad Peak (8046 m) and K2 (8611 m) Kazakhstan Expedition
Summer 2003

June 13, 2003 Ervand Iljinsky:

June 6 the first group (Zhumayev, Pivtsov, Chumakov, Urubko) came to Camp 1 (5100 m)

June 7 the same group set the Camp 2 on 6100 m.

June 8 The first group in very bad weather conditions fixed 550 m of ropes and set the Camp 3 (intermediate) on 6500 m. The further work on the route would be too dangerous in such conditions.

June 9 The first group came back to BC (4100 m) for the rest. The second group (Lavrov, Litvinov, Molgachev, Raspopov and Bogomolov) went up to the intermediate Camp 3 (6500 m)

Jine 10 the trio Lavrov, Litvinov and Bogomolov began to climb above the Camp 3 with the task to fix ropes and moving the Camp 3 higher. They fixed 250 m of ropes, and came back to Camp 3, because haven't find the good place for the Camp. It appeared that it needs apparently 500-600 m of ropes for the further establishing the route.

June 11 the second group came back to the BC (4100) for the rest. The same day joined group of climbers from Italy, Spain, USA and France, leading by Simone Moro, went up for the further establishing the route. They brought 500 m of ropes.


June 12, 15-23 pm

Intermediate Camp 3

Vassily Pivtsov coming to Camp 2

The descent to Camp 2 after the snowfall

Rock Walls at 6000

Simone Moro:

Yesterday all the team went to camp 2 at 6100 meters carring equipment in havy and big packs- We started at 4 a.m. and we spent 8 hours climbing the 2000 meters of face including the last 100 meters of Kinshofer wall. Our plans was to sleep in camp 2 and the day after to go to camp 3 and than on 7000 meters fixing the ?last 500 meters of ropes. Unfortunately we get some bad news after our arrival in camp 2.

Franco Nicolini get serious frosbite in 2 big toes and he decided to go back to BC. Oscar Gogorza in the evening time get celebral edema so I and Inaki Ochoa rescued him in the night and stormy weather till the B.C. .... hard and danger job...

Today also Mirco, Ed and JC Lafaille went back to B.C. because there was bad weather ad snowfall.

So tomorrow we will lose 3 members: Franco, Oscar and Mirco. They will return back at home to recover. We will remain 4 members + 9 Kazakh climbers. The team will continue to attempt the mountain hoping to see again the nice weather we got at the beginning.

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Simone Moro, June 12, 13-19 pm


JK Lafaille: Under a "technical" point of view, the ascent between camp 1 and camp 2 by the way "Kinshofer" (Diamir slope) is rather stiff. A corridor of snow inclined at 55 leads to the foot of an "outstanding" obstacle for the Himalaya. It is a vertical wall in rock of a hundred meter height! 50 meters after the exit of this wall, camp 2 is set.