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Nanga
Parbat (8126 m), Broad Peak (8046 m) and K2 (8611 m) Kazakhstan Expedition
Summer 2003 June
17, 2003 NANGA PARPAT SUMMITED!!! 
Maxut
Zhumayev and Vassily Pivtsov on the summit of Nanga Parbat | SUMMIT,
SUMMIT, SUMMIT !!!!! After
16 days only, the first group of 4 climbers from Kazakhstan national team, Denis
Urubko, Dima Chumakov, Maksut Zhumayev, and Vassilly Pivtsov arrived at 8,30 a.m.
at 8125 meters of Nanga Parbat summit. They optimized the team spirit
of all international group that all together fixed more than 3000 meters of fix
rope in only 15 days. Tomorrow a second group of Kazakhstan climbers will attempt
the summit and in the evening time I and JC Lafaille will start to open a new
route. Following us on the Kinshofer route. Also Inachi Ochoa, Ed Viesturs will
attempt the summit starting tomorrow. So
follow us for the next news. Inshallah.... Simone
Moro, June 17, 8-56 am |
Denis
Urubko. Photo Simone Moro | 
Denis
Urubko on the summit of Nanga Parbat |
Dmitry
Chumakov Simone
Moro: | Hallo
Guys. There are only 16 days we are here but we are really near to the first summit
attempt. This night Denis Urubko and 3 other members of his team will start from
camp 4 at 7400 mt to attempt the summit. (they get training in Ipobaric chamber
for 2 months before coming here). I and Ed spent night at 6900 meters of camp
3 and today we climbed down 3000 meters of face to arrive in Base camp to do the
last rest period before our attempt. Also JC today went to camp 3 and came back. Now
the plan for me and JC Lafaille is to try to open a new route on a virgin pillar
on the left side of the face. Ed and Inaki will also start next Friday to attempt
the summit. So
follow us Simone.
June 16, 19-57 pm | 
Camp
3 |
June
16, 2003 Ervand Iljinsky: The
first group of Kazakhstan climbers (Zhumayev, Pivtsov, Chumakov, Urubko) are climbing
to the attack Camp now. There will be the summit bid tomorrow. The second group
is in the Camp 3.
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