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Nanga Parbat (8126 m), Broad Peak (8046 m) and K2 (8611 m) Kazakhstan Expedition
Summer 2003


June 19, 2003 Ervand Iljinsky:

Yesterday, June 18, the second group (Serguey Lavrov, Alexey Raspopov, Vassily Litvinov and Serguey Bogomolov) summited Nanga Parbat at 1-00 pm. CONGRATULATIONS!!!

Damir Molgachev is in Camp 4 and hopes to summit today, with the international party.
All are OK and ready to realize next steps of the project.
The team send their gratitude to sponsors and the head of CSKA (Central Sport Army Club) of Kazakhstan Republic general-major Pavel Novikov, and greets all, who supported the expedition, with the successful finish of the first step.

Special congratulations to Serguey Bogomolov (Russian member of this international expedition) - this summit is the 10-th 8000-er for him! The list of his climbs:

Sergey Bogomolov
- born in 1951, "snow leopard" 4 times, lives in Saratov
- high-altitude climbs including:
Kangchenjunga, 8586 m (1989, new route)
Cho Oyu, 8201 m (1991, new route)
Dhaulagiri, 8167 m (1993, new route)
Ama Dablam, 6812 m (1994, new route)
Everest, 8848 m (1995)
Makalu, 8463 m (1996)
Lhotse, 8516 m (1997)
Gasherbrum I, 8068 m (2001)
Gasherbrum II, 8035 m (2001)
Shisha Pangma, 8012m (2002)

Simone Moro:

Others 4 Climbers summited Nanga Parbat!!! The Kazakh team (Alexey Raspopov, Serguey Lavrov, Vassiliy Litvinov) and Serguey Bogomolov (Russian) reached Nanga Parbat summit at 12,00 with cloudy weather. Damir Molgachev returned at C4 without summit for cold problems. He will try again in this night, together with Inaki Ochoa and Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (Austrian climber who is just after the Italian Kangchenjunga expedition, she's well-acclimatized and wants to try Nanga too - ed. note).

Today also Simone Moro, JC Lafaille and Ed Viesturs will start from BC for the summit. Simone and Lafaille will try to open in alpine style a new route (red point of the photo) and Ed will climb Kinshofer route. They will meet at Camp 3 and they will continue together to the summit....

We hope that the weather report will be good

Simone, June 19, 10-09

the new route