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Nanga Parbat (8126 m), Broad Peak (8046 m) and K2 (8611 m) Kazakhstan Expedition
Summer 2003

 

June 27, 2003 Baglan Zhunusov, the head of the expedition:

The first step of the expedition is finished. It was the hardest part, I think, of our expedition. We have a wonderful start. And this was the hard part, because there were a lot of doubts about the possibility of the organization of such expedition. The team was great experienced, and their resourses are enough for the further steps of the project. We wish the good rest before the next summits for our guys.

Now the team is going to Skardu from Chilas. There is a beautiful place near Skardu, on the bank of the lake - the team will spend about a week there. Than they'll go to the K2 BC. We have discussed in the Nanga Parbat BC, where Broad Peak BC will be, and Iljinsky proposed to place it under K2, and to climb Broad Peak from there.

Baglan Zhunusov, June 26

Simone Moro from BC:

Today Ed Viesturs and JC Lafaille came back to BC after summited Nanga Parbat. They came from C4 and they took all the camps during the descent, which they fixed the weeks before. They was in a good shape and happy for the climb.

Tomorrow 3 italian climbers will start from BC to the summit. I will start after tomorrow going directly to C2 and than with them to the summit. The weather report said that we will have stable weather all the week.... and we hope it will be true.

Ciao

Simone Moro June 24, 19-31


Serguey Bogomolov: Moro and Lafaille climbed the new route till 7000 m, which was proposed to them by Iljinsky, the coach of the team.

Lafaille and Viesturs (photo Simone Moro)

 

June 23, 2003 Simone Moro from BC:

A very important personal result came! After only 20 days expedition I and JC Lafaille opened a new route, in alpine style on the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat. 2100 meters of new route meet at 7000/7050 meters of altitude the ?classic Kinshofer route above C3 (red points on the photo - see dispatch June 19). On the route we met rock and ice at 65 and many mix climb. After climbed the new route we met Ed Viesturs on the classic route and the day after we went to 7500 m., at camp 4. I stopped at 7400 meters because my acclimatisation is not finished and I decided to came back to BC. to regenerate. I will try summit after 4-5 days.

Lafaille and Ed Viesturs are now at 150 mt near the summit making track in a very deep snow. Inshallah.....The conditions on the mountain are going every day worse because of the daily snowfall.

Simone. June 23, 11-43

June 22, 2003 Photos from Karakorum:

Ervand Iljinsky is following after the first group, which is about 6500

Damir Molgachev

Serguey Lavrov

Serguey Bogomolov

Vassily Litvinov

Alexey Raspopov