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Nanga
Parbat (8126 m), Broad Peak (8046 m) and K2 (8611 m) Kazakhstan Expedition
June 27, 2003 Baglan Zhunusov, the head of the expedition: The first step of the expedition is finished. It was the hardest part, I think, of our expedition. We have a wonderful start. And this was the hard part, because there were a lot of doubts about the possibility of the organization of such expedition. The team was great experienced, and their resourses are enough for the further steps of the project. We wish the good rest before the next summits for our guys. Now
the team is going to Skardu from Chilas. There is a beautiful place near Skardu,
on the bank of the lake - the team will spend about a week there. Than they'll
go to the K2 BC. We have discussed in the Nanga Parbat BC, where Broad Peak BC
will be, and Iljinsky proposed to place it under K2, and to climb Broad Peak from
there. Baglan Zhunusov, June 26 Simone Moro from BC:
June 23, 2003 Simone Moro from BC: A very important personal result came! After only 20 days expedition I and JC Lafaille opened a new route, in alpine style on the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat. 2100 meters of new route meet at 7000/7050 meters of altitude the ?classic¦ Kinshofer route above C3 (red points on the photo - see dispatch June 19). On the route we met rock and ice at 65¦ and many mix climb. After climbed the new route we met Ed Viesturs on the classic route and the day after we went to 7500 m., at camp 4. I stopped at 7400 meters because my acclimatisation is not finished and I decided to came back to BC. to regenerate. I will try summit after 4-5 days. Lafaille and Ed Viesturs are now at 150 mt near the summit making track in a very deep snow. Inshallah.....The conditions on the mountain are going every day worse because of the daily snowfall. Simone.
June 23, 11-43 June 22, 2003 Photos from Karakorum:
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