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Nanga Parbat (8126 m), Broad Peak (8046 m) and K2 (8611 m) Kazakhstan Expedition
Summer 2003

June 29, 2003 Serguey Bogomolov:

SOME RESULTS. Sitting and suffering - from ache. My tooth have just been taken away. It was the decision of the coach council. Three days I tryed to be OK, but no results. And if I want to climb the next mount, and don't want to be a problem for the team, so...

June 23 we came down to Chilas. We went from Chilas to the BC in 4 days, but we went back in one day, in 12 hours, 3000 m off. Some of us had problems with our legs (mucsie), especially Iljinsky. We had problems with electrogenerator all time. And all letters which was writting just after the climb, was sent only on June 25.

We reached the BC on June 1, and Kazakhstan climbers summited already on June 17-18 - sure, this is now and will be in future an excellent result. My experience ( Himalaya expeditions and International Mountaineering Camps in Pamir) says that such result for the team - it's normal for the soviet climbers. Really, 3600 m of the ropes were fixed on the route, and 3150 m among them - fixed by nine climbers (8 Kazakhstan members and me), and more than a half from these 3150 m - by the first group ( Zhumayev, Urubko, Pivtsov and Chumakov). And our C4 was used by international team too. As for the speed of ascent, Urubko climbed from C4 (7400 m) to the summit in 3,5 hours. So, Iljinsky can be proud of his guys. But not all was OK. Damir Molgachev returned to C4 without summit, because of his previous frostbites, which he caught this winter. He tryed to repeat the attempt two days later, but... the altitude is very crafty. The organizm was broken. He felt worse, and thought about safety. He went down to BC 2 days instead of 1 - on the living force limit. Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and Inaci were with Damir these days. Sure, we'll hear about Gerlinde in future - she's an excellent high-altitude climber.


Serguey Bogomolov, June 26 (received June 28, 17-48 pm)

June 28, 2003 Simone Moro:

The Mountain wins! Also on my fifth attempt, the mountain refused me and any climber more. Yesterday at 7000 meters I fought with a terrible wind who took me and my tent many times trying to destroy both. I had been on rope all the night also inside my sleeping bag and this thing saved me. This morning I tried to go to 7500 m to C4 but the wind was stronger than me....

I accepted with the mountain and the destiny wanted and I came back to Base camp again. Tomorrow we will go to Chilas and than to Skardu. Now Broad Peak and K2 waiting for me.....

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Simone, June 28, 14-39 pm