UIAA Youth Commission Youth
Leader Training Seminar for 2005.

Each Federation is invited to send up to 3 route setting experts toYekaterinburg in Russia on 6th to 19th June at the invitation of elite Russian alpinist Alex Klenov and Climbing Federation Russia. The seminar examines standards and techniques in route setting outdoors on local crags including safe route
setting, environmental cleaning of the rock, consideration of the ethics of equipment placement and
discussion on climbing style around the world. Seminar facilities will be provided for those bringing slide
presentations.

There are many local crags from bouldering to routes of 30-40m on granite or limestone. Further north there
are many big walls and Alex can help climbers organise a trip there. There is also a good climbing gym in the
city that you can have free use of during the seminar period.

Following the seminar there is a rock festival for young Russian climbers from around 10 cities in Russia
to learn and gain an appreciation of styles of climbing and route setting.

Please email Alex ASAP if you have federation representatives as it is hoped that some of the
World's best route setters will be able to attend. Please pass on this information to the appropriate
person in your federation and thanks for your assistance. Information in Russian can be found on
www.manaraga.ru including a report of the successful dry tooling
seminar which he organized.

Deadline for seminar registration is end April 2005

"Rocks Are For Everybody",
Alexander Klenov Believes.
Rock-climbing, being an offspring of mountain climbing, year by year is drifting further and further apart from its parent.The very idea of rock-climbing - delicately overcoming the most difficult walls in real conditions, using only the strength and agility of a trained body - is gradually disappearing. There is hardly a rock-climber not spending almost all of his time in a gym who is prepared to demonstrate his ability on real rocks in Russia, say nothing about those traditional routes without bolts. The term 'rock-climbing' gradually loses the right to contain the 'rock' root, since many athletes have never seen real rocks. There are virtually no more mountain climbers capable of free climbing, even under ideal conditions. We are losing traditions of our mountain climbing school of the Ural, which used to be different from many a team in the USSR by winning mostly on the account of high level of climbing practice of all team members. Mountain climbers, masters of rock-climbing, demonstrated phenomenal results on peaks of any class, from the walls of Crimea to Everest.
One of the reasons for the decrease in climbing level is a virtual absence of classified rock routes in the Ural. Those who climb rocks without trainers - the latter are not supposed to be provided for adults at all - cannot evaluate their level, don't know what to strive for, and simply lose an important motivation factor: 'catch up and surpass'.
Alexander Klenov decided to try and correct the situation. As of beginning of June we started a long, difficult, but very much needed program 'Rocks For Everybody'. The main direction of the project is to set new classified routes in the Ural for all styles of climbing. A constantly updated catalog of both existing and new routes will be created on www.manaraga.ru. Classic routes will be made, so that rock climbers who overcome these will be able to realistically evaluate other routes. A community of adherents to climbing on natural rocks will be established. And many, many other things-At the first stage of the program, new routes will be set on rocks in the Kourovka area under the guidance of Alexander Klenov, internationally certified route-setter. These routes are expected to be presented by holding a festival "ONSITE MARATHON".EVERYONE WILLING is invited. Those who have not overcome the routes during the festival will be able to get their own back from the rock later on, since, as different from a regular competition, the routes will be accessible for all any time available afterwards.

Seminar on route setting on natural rock for sports climbs considering local style and ethics
8.06.2005 - 19.06.2005
This seminar is intended to help local climbers to set routes on their crags and for international participants to share understanding of route setting and grading on different rocks and in different parts of the world. We will begin with sports climbing and progress to traditional climbing in future events. This is interesting for all climbers, particularly those who want to establish new routes.

Alexander Klenov I am an international route setter (ICC) for competition climbing and have developed many new routes throughout the world, both in sport climbing, big wall and the mountains.

1 day
Acquaintance and discussion about the essence and importance of preparation of routes on rocks and safety precautions.
Discussion of climbing styles and ethics in different countries - slide shows from participants
Climbing of the bolted lines on the cliff "Fat man" Kourovka.
Estimation of climbing level of meeting participants.
Practice in an estimating grades of the routes.

2 day
Training in self protection and fixing the static rope to the cliff face.
Skills of safe descent and ascent of fixed ropes
Forming of working groups for creating the new routes on the crag

3 day
Installation of fixed static ropes and self protection in working groups.
The general rules of safe work.
Cleaning of a rock - removing loose blocks sensitively and cleaning of vegetation, brushing.

4 day
End of preliminary cleaning.
Test-climbing of the line and identifying the best line and positions for the protection.

5 day
The principles of placing bolts - discussion and types, pros and cons of the different types in different rocks. Hand placing and with a drill.
Selecting positions of bolts.
Training the skills of using all of the equipment and rules of installation of anchors at the top of the climb.

6 day
Installation of bolts.
Discussion

7 day
Climbing on completed routes, the final cleaning and estimation of degree of difficulty.

8 day
Drawing of TOPOS. Route names.

9-10 day
Rest and consolidation of any techniques, further discussion.
Party, and departure.

Cost: 250Euros/person

See registration form for full contact information.

Russia Yekaterinburg, Moskovskay st. 28b Sport Climbing Olympic School, Alexander Klenov

Fax. 007 343 2624978   e- mail: vaklen_ru@yahoo.com

Association:.......................................................................................................................

Country:..............................................................................................................................

Participants:

1. Name, Surname:..............................................................................................................

Date of birth:........................................................................................................................

Address:................................................................................................................................

City:........................................................................................................................................

Country:..................................................................................................................................

Phone:.................................................................... mobile phone:.........................................

E-mail-Address:.......................................................................................................................

Route setting expertise including outdoor route and competition if applicable:

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We-ll arrive by:= car¨==== train¨=== =plane¨======= don-t know yet¨

=

Please photocopy for registration of additional participants.
Additional relevant information about participants such as any
useful medicalinformation, insurance details which federations
have for participnts should be sent with this form.NB All participants
should be over 18 years old and where applicable be qualified routesetters.

Equipment list

Clothing & foot ware

1) Clothes for warm and cold weather
2) Waterproofs
3) Cup, plate etc. (food provided)
4) Approach trainers
5) Swimming kit (optional)

Camping Equipment

1) Tent
2) Karri mat
3) Sleeping bag

Personal rock climbing & route setting equipment

1) Harness
2) Helmet
3) Jumars (1 or 2)
4) Gri-Gri and your belay device
5) Slings (3-4)
6) Other personal route setting equipment
7) Quick draws x 10
8) Leather gloves
9) 1x60m 10,5 leading rope (static ropes provided)

Other

1) Insect repellent
2) Individual medicine / first aid kit.

Logistics

T Bring examples of bolting kit from your Country
T Camera if you have picture of your climbing area, slides.
T A seminar room will be provided for discussion & showing of slides in Kourovka School (twenty minutes walk from the rock). Kourovka village is 80 km from Yekaterinburg, 1.5 hrs by train.
T Participants will be met at the airport and transport will be provided by bus.
T If you need an invitation for a VIZA please let us know. It is possible to nominate up to 3 people per federation.