Story about Moldovan Mountaineering
say, the first alpinists appeared in Chisinau in the end of 60s
v they were graduates of Odessa institutes where alpinism organizations
already existed at that time. Those people organized their own section,
the first one, in the Polytechnic Institute of Chisinau. The Federation
of Odessa and Bleschunov Alexander, the head of it, helped a lot
to Moldovan mountaineering development.
gradually seized people and in other towns of Moldova: Belt, Benderi,
Tiraspol, Ribnitsa and Kagul.
Moldovan Federation of Mountaineering was organized in 1976. At
that very year there was the 1st National Championship of climbing
in Southern Bug. Later on, championships took place as in Moldova
(Butuceni, Kobani, Edinets, Tsipovo) so in Ukraine (Crimea, Carpathians).
National team of Moldova participated in the USSR championships
(Tsahkadzor v Armenia), All-Union competitions in Kislovodsk (3rd
place), international competitions in Bulgaria (Veliko Tirnovo).
was a system of the USSR trade unions alpine camps. Every summer
up to 180 people went to alpine camps in Caucasus. The pass cost
a symbolic price and every fourth pass was for free. The All- Union
School of Instructors in Caucasus trained instructors-trainers (the
course lasted for 40 days). There were trained about 30 instructors
1979 Moldovan alpinists for the first time ascended Peaks of Komsomol
and Mayakovsky (Tian-Shian) in winter time.
1982 till 1990 the National Championship of Mountaineering took
place. Usually, all teams came to one district of Pamiro- Alay or
Tian-Shian and ascended routes of 5-B category of difficulty.
31st of December 1986 A. Barchuk became Master of Sport, after the
Moldovan team had firstly climbed the route of the 6th category
of difficulty v North-West Face of Zamin-Karor (the route of S.
in 1987 the National team of Moldova for the first time had the
right to participate in the USSR Championships (at least one Master
of Sport had to be in the team). It was a technical class, height
up to 5250 meters.
v Castle/Tower on the North-East Face in Fany Mountains v 6th place
v (ice class) Baytor on ice couloir of the North Face in Tiani-Shani
(first ascent) v 4th place
v (ice class) Peak Karakolsky on the center of the North Face (first
ascent) v 7th place
v Begichi on the North-East Face (first ascent) v 3rd place (The
Championship of the USSR Armed Forces in Pamiro-Alay)
alpinists climbed in Crimea, Carpathians, Caucasus, Pamir, Tian-Shian,
Himalaya, Alps, USA, China, Rumania, Bulgaria to the peaks of Elbrus,
Kazbek, Ushba, Shkhara, Dalar, summits of Lenin, Korjenevskaya,
Communism, Pobeda (7 people became ?snow leopards¦), Khan-Tengri,
Djigit, Karakolsky, Blok, Kanchendjanga, Monblan, Matter horn, Mac-Kinley,
Kongur, and others.
are considered to be the most active years for mountaineering development
the beginning of 90s there were organized several expeditions together
with Rumanian alpinists to Pamir and Tian-Shian (Peak of Lenin,
Peak of Korjenevskaya - the seven-thousanders).
1988 our alpinists (15 people) very quickly arrived to Leninakan
(Armenia) to participate in the earthquake rescue. They received
State Awards of the USSR and Armenia.
the same time it should be mentioned people who were not in the
system of Federation, who went to the mountains by themselves, worked
in international alpine camps and rescue stations.
the beginning of 80s most Moldovan alpinists worked in rescue services
of Caucasus. Nowadays, Igor Cheresku is the head of the Shkhelda
Rescue Station (Elbrus Region).
90s, when the centralization started disappearing, people continued
to go to the mountains individually, in small groups or sometimes
cooperating with alpinists from other countries (Kanchendjanga,
Mac-Kinley, Kongur, Mustag-Ata, Caucasus, Crimea, Rumania (Demyanenko
Ruslan, Ditiuk Yurii, Kapralov Sergey, Kulikov Valerii, Tsurkan
Viktor and others).
After 2000 mountaineering in Moldova started ?awaking¦ again. New
young teams appeared. People go to Crimea, Rumania, Caucasus, Europe,
USA, Africa. 71 man-ascendings (each man participated in ascending
is counted) are fixed this year and it-s something. There are huge
plans to build qualitative indoor walls and may be to come back
to the system of alpine clubs. This year in February the first during
a long period of time meeting of alpinists, young and veterans,
took place. More than 100 people came. A sort of an unprecedented
event for Moldova.
one more, so to say unprecedented event, is that in the end of April
there took place the first during last 15 years Climbing Championship
of Moldova Republic (first stage). More than 100 children and adults
participated in the climbing competition (speed). The second one
(difficulty) is expected in the end of June.
digest is prepared by Coptina Tanya with the help and out
of words, papers and photos of Alexander Barciuc, as well as stories
and remembrances of other mountaineers.