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November 2004 news

26 November, 2004 The All-Russia Mountaineering Championship. High-altitude-Tech class. Results.

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30 November. 2004 Jannu East Face^ Tomaz Humar's attempt.

22 November, 2004 On 13/11/2004 at 21.00 Italians Ermanno Salvaterra, Alessandro Beltrami and Giacomo Rossetti reached the top of Cerro Torre via a new direct route up the East Face (a great new 1200m line). Salvaterra had attempted the line
in 2001 together with Mauro Giovanazzi, Paolo Calza and Walter Gobbi.

This new route is a great achievement, like Burke and Proctor's 1981 "East Diedre" (6c/A4) which climbs the large
overhanging corner for 300m before moving onto the North Face, and the"Directisima del Infierno", first ascended in 1986 by Karo, Knez, Jegli, Podgornik, Kozjek and Fistravec their route joins on the final 150 m Cesare Maestri's "Compressor route" up the East Ridge, and is graded ED+ 8+/A3, 90°.

18 November, 2004 Shisha Pangma Winter: Simone Moro and his team will fly to Kathmandu November, 29.

11 November, 2004 Cerro Torre West Face 30th anniversary.

10 November, 2004 Forgotten Polish film takes Grand Prize at Banff Mountain Film Festival
A film made 35 years ago (Jerzy Surdel). Odwròt (Retreat) recreates an anonymous climber’s epic solo descent in the wake of a mountaineering accident. Filmed in black and white in the Tatra Mountains, Odwròt follows the climber’s desperate retreat to find help for his injured partner.
The sole copy of Odwròt was rescued from obscurity by Alex Bertulis.

26 November 2004 The All-Russia Mountaineering Championship
HIgh-altitude Tech class. Results

1. "Russian Extreme Project" team, Moscow
Rozov (leader), Dorfman, Kovaljov, Lastochkin, Serjogin
Karakorum, Amin Brakk (5850 m) WEst Face, variant of "Cheh express", 6 (Russian grade )
June, 28- July, 19

2 Sverdlovsk region team
Korobkov (leader), Smagin, Chernjavsky, Shabunin.
Coac:^ Mikhailov
Central Tien Shan, Gorkogo peak (6010 m) (left part of the North-WEst Face) first climb, 6A (Russian grade)
August 15-16, 17-24

3 Saint Peterburg team
Shamalo (leader), Korabelnikov, Purins, Silin
China, Kongur (7719 m) North-West Face and North ridge, 6A (Russian grade) first climb
August, 5-9

4 Krasnoyarsk region team
Arkhipov (leader), Mikhalicyn, Filatov
Coach: Zakharov
China, Kongur (7719), North ridge, 6A (Russian grade) second climb
August, 18-23

18 November 2004 Shisha Pangma Winter Expedition:

Simone Moro: Everything is working well here in preparing the expedition. Monday will flight to Kathmandu our cargo with equipment and food we will use during the 2month expedition. I and my friends planned to go in Khumbu valley for a trekking to Everest base camp and easy climbs for acclimatisation in the areas. After that we will start by road to Kodhari- Zangmu and Nyalam and from that village we will trek till the Shisha Pangma south face base camp. Only at base camp we will decide the route we will attempt. We want to see directly the snow condition of the face and the weather forecast we will have from Innsbruck from my personal friend Karl Gabl. Herewith I'm sending you the postcard I prepared for our expedition. I dind't received yet the cable but I took free all next week to realize all the procedure and training with iPAQ and Contact 3.0.

It is the same people as last time: Piotr, Darek, Jan, Jazek and I.

11 November 2004

13 January 1974 Two parties (Mario Conti - Casimiro Ferrari and Daniele Chiappa - Pino Negri) reach the summit of Cerro Torre. This is the first time that the mythical, difficult and beautiful West Face has been breached. Their success crowns the efforts of the 12-man Italian Ragni della Grignetta expedition. 57 pitches, almost all on ice, graded ED+, with some 85° ice sections and a crux of VI and A2. The route and summit closes a circle initiated by the Lecco Ragni: on 02/02/1958 Carlo Mauri and Walter who first reached Colle della Speranza (perched between Cerro Torre and Cordon Adela Nord), and then pushed their highpoint a further 120m. Another Ragni expedition, with expedition members Casimiro Ferrari and Piero Rava, came to within 250m from the summit, which was then reached in 1974.

The 2nd ascent was carried out in 1977 by the Americans John Brag, Dave Carman and Jay Wilson, the 3rd ascent in 1986 by Michael Bearzi and Eric Winkelmann, and the 4th ascent b Dan Cauthorn and John Krakauer.

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