November 2004 news
November, 2004 The All-Russia Mountaineering
Championship. High-altitude-Tech class. Results.
November. 2004 Jannu East Face^ Tomaz
November, 2004 On
13/11/2004 at 21.00 Italians Ermanno Salvaterra, Alessandro
Beltrami and Giacomo Rossetti reached the top of Cerro
Torre via a new direct route up the East Face (a great
new 1200m line). Salvaterra had attempted the line
in 2001 together with Mauro Giovanazzi, Paolo Calza
and Walter Gobbi.
new route is a great achievement, like Burke and Proctor's
1981 "East Diedre" (6c/A4) which climbs the
overhanging corner for 300m before moving onto the North
Face, and the"Directisima del Infierno", first
ascended in 1986 by Karo, Knez, Jegli, Podgornik, Kozjek
and Fistravec their route joins on the final 150 m Cesare
Maestri's "Compressor route" up the East Ridge,
and is graded ED+ 8+/A3, 90°.
November, 2004 Shisha Pangma Winter: Simone
Moro and his team will fly to Kathmandu November, 29.
November, 2004 Cerro Torre West Face 30th
November, 2004 Forgotten Polish film takes
Grand Prize at Banff Mountain Film Festival
A film made 35 years ago (Jerzy Surdel). Odwròt (Retreat)
recreates an anonymous climber’s epic solo descent in
the wake of a mountaineering accident. Filmed in black
and white in the Tatra Mountains, Odwròt follows the
climber’s desperate retreat to find help for his injured
sole copy of Odwròt was rescued from obscurity by Alex
November 2004 The All-Russia Mountaineering Championship
HIgh-altitude Tech class. Results
"Russian Extreme Project" team, Moscow
Rozov (leader), Dorfman, Kovaljov, Lastochkin, Serjogin
Karakorum, Amin Brakk (5850 m) WEst Face, variant of "Cheh
express", 6 (Russian grade )
June, 28- July, 19
Sverdlovsk region team
Korobkov (leader), Smagin, Chernjavsky, Shabunin.
Central Tien Shan, Gorkogo peak (6010 m) (left part of the North-WEst
Face) first climb, 6A (Russian grade)
August 15-16, 17-24
Saint Peterburg team
Shamalo (leader), Korabelnikov, Purins, Silin
China, Kongur (7719 m) North-West Face and North ridge, 6A (Russian
grade) first climb
Krasnoyarsk region team
Arkhipov (leader), Mikhalicyn, Filatov
China, Kongur (7719), North ridge, 6A (Russian grade) second
November 2004 Shisha Pangma Winter Expedition:
Moro: Everything is working well here in preparing
the expedition. Monday will flight to Kathmandu our cargo with
equipment and food we will use during the 2month expedition.
I and my friends planned to go in Khumbu valley for a trekking
to Everest base camp and easy climbs for acclimatisation in
the areas. After that we will start by road to Kodhari- Zangmu
and Nyalam and from that village we will trek till the Shisha
Pangma south face base camp. Only at base camp we will decide
the route we will attempt. We want to see directly the snow
condition of the face and the weather forecast we will have
from Innsbruck from my personal friend Karl Gabl. Herewith I'm
sending you the postcard I prepared for our expedition. I dind't
received yet the cable but I took free all next week to realize
all the procedure and training with iPAQ and Contact 3.0.
is the same people as last time: Piotr, Darek, Jan, Jazek and
January 1974 Two parties (Mario Conti - Casimiro Ferrari and
Daniele Chiappa - Pino Negri) reach the summit of Cerro Torre.
This is the first time that the mythical, difficult and beautiful
West Face has been breached. Their success crowns the efforts
of the 12-man Italian Ragni della Grignetta expedition. 57 pitches,
almost all on ice, graded ED+, with some 85° ice sections and
a crux of VI and A2. The route and summit closes a circle initiated
by the Lecco Ragni: on 02/02/1958 Carlo Mauri and Walter who
first reached Colle della Speranza (perched between Cerro Torre
and Cordon Adela Nord), and then pushed their highpoint a further
120m. Another Ragni expedition, with expedition members Casimiro
Ferrari and Piero Rava, came to within 250m from the summit,
which was then reached in 1974.
2nd ascent was carried out in 1977 by the Americans John Brag,
Dave Carman and Jay Wilson, the 3rd ascent in 1986 by Michael
Bearzi and Eric Winkelmann, and the 4th ascent b Dan Cauthorn
and John Krakauer.