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July 2007 news

30 July 2007 K2 NW ridge Kazakhstan expedition. The team set CAmp 2 and fixed 500 m above it.

K2 West Face30 July 2007 K2 West Face expedition. The bastion has been climbed, but the West Face is continuing ...

26 July 2007 Nanga Parbat, Byelorussian expedition: July, 19 Anatoly Lutov, Vladislav Kagan, Serguey Statsevich and Mikhail Melnikov reached the summit.

25 July 2007 Krasnoyarsk Trango - Broad Peak - expedition. After two great Trango routes the team begins their first 8000 climb. Today all team (11 climbers) will spent night at 6200. By the way, other Krasnoyarsk team became the All-Russia Champion in Rock class two days ago - the Champioship took place on Caucasus, in Tsey region.

25 July 2007 K2 West Face expedition. Camp 5 has been set, but the bad weather put the breakes on the climb

24 July 200 Denis Urubko and four members of his team summited Khan Tengri yesterday and descended to BC today.

24 July 2007 Broad peak. Two members of International (Russian-Latvian) expedition - Vladimir Belousov and Serguey Duganov summited BP July, 20 on 2 p.m. Other members were planning summit bid next day, but were turned back by bad weather.

20 July 200 K2 - Broad peak Kuban expedition: 6 p.m. radio comm: all four climbers are back in C4, in their snow cave. Yesterday, when they reached C4, they didn't find their tent... Had to dig the snow cave.Whenhave dug, found the tent under the snow - it was absolutely broken, but all equipment inside was ok.

The first Russian duo reached K2 summit via normal route on 3-03 p.m. local time. The second duo summited after them. Climbers' names: Nickolay Kadoshnikov, Victor Afanasjev, Roman Gubanov and Alexander Eliseev. Congratulations!

Nickolay Kadoshnikov
Victor Afanasjev
Roman Gubanov
Alexander Eliseev

18 July 2007 Caucasus, Dzhangi Tau East. The experienced Czech climber Karel Pilh fell to his death from the altitude about 4700 when descended from the top. His wife Pavla Pilhova witnesed all. Russian climbers who went down behind the Czech pair, helped Pavla to descend to BC.

18 July 2007 Lenin peak (7134). July, 13 1990 the huge avalanche caught 43 climbers in camp at 5300, when they're sleeping... Most of them were from Leningrad (Saint Petersburg) The long search didn't give results - all were lost... And today the member of the team of Central Sport Club of Kazakhstan Army Alexander Chechulin, who climbs Lenin peak now, called and said that at 4200 large numbers of bodies of that avalanche victims appeared on the surface in the result of glacier move down and melting...

18 July 2007 K2 West Face expedition. Rescue from 7500.

16 July 2007 Double success on Trango! Two routes climbed by Krasnoyarsk team! The second team, led by OLeg Khvostenko (+ Vladimir Arkhipov, Yuri Glazyrin, Denis Prokofief, Serguey Cherezov ana Alexander Yanushevich), climbed in very bad weather, but they reached the summit today on 11-00 local time. On 13-00 they descended to their bivy and continued to went down. Now guys spend night on the small ledge. The young Krasnoarsk team is preparing for future wall climbs on 8000-ers. This's their first visit to Karakorum. More pictures

K2 West Face15 July 2007 K2 West Face expedition. Climb diary July, 8-14.Some ropes more - and climbers would see the top of their dream - they can't see it from the bastion yet.As Nickolay Totmjanin said by phone, icy-covered rocks on the route above are also the very difficult barrier, and the climbers are under the altitude pressing already. But they can see also as the ridges from the left and right become closer ...I wrote the schematic route line on the Japanese photo - you can see the whole bastion and how long it remaines still to the top - E.L.

14 July 2007 K2 - Broad peak Kuban expedition:All the team rest in BC. Four-men group led by Nickolay Kadoshnikov, set Camp 4 at about 8000 m on the Shoulder. All team descended to BC.

 

13 July 2007 K2 NW ridge Kazakhstan expedition. Serguey Brodsky, Serguey Bogomolov, Andrew Puchinin and Malik Ismetov set Camp 1 at 5700 yesterday

12 July 2007 Krasnoyarsk Broad Peak - Trango expedition. Today one Great Trango Tower NW Faceof the teams has summited Trango and completed the new route on NW Face. The coach Nickolay Zakharov called from BC late evening: "Four-men team - Mikhalicyn, Beljaev, Loginov and Komissarov - had in the morning received the forecast promised very bad weather,
left all their capming equipment, started to the summit and climbed the rest pitches very fast. They reached the top, and descended back to the camp. They're very tired, and I persisted they stayed there, but guys decided not to wait snowfalls and descended to BC in the darkness.

Great Trango Tower NW FaceThe other team led by Oleg Khvostenko, climbed today 4 ropes and we hope tomorrow they'll climb the rest difficult pitches. But all depends from the weather - now the sky's already covered by clouds".

10 July 2007 K2 - Broad peak Kuban expedition: Roman Gubanov and Alexander Eliseev set Camp 3 (7400) on K2 yesterday. Today they're going down, but next two groups led by Nickolay Kadoshnikov and Ivan Aristov, are going up - the want to set Camp 4.

10 July 2007 Denis Urubko - Serguey Samoilov: K2 new route from the North. The letter to the sponsor.

NW Face Great Trango Tower10 July 2007 Krasnoyarsk Broad Peak - Trango expedition NW Face of Great Trango Tower. Good weather! Yesterday Khvostenko's team (Ukraininan route) climbed 5 very hard ropes and descended to the portaledges. Today they took all equipment and climb further, and are planning to reach the "roof" of the first bastion. The second team, led by Mikhalitcyn (first climb) spent night on 21 rope under the first rock bastion. They have to climb three steep rock bastions with common height difference about 1000 m.

Trango Tower

July, 9. Ukraininan route. OLeg Khvostenko's leading

Trango Tower

July, 9. New route

K2 West Face bastion9 July 2007 K2 West Face expedition. Climb diary July, 1-8. The team set Camp 4 and climbed 7 ropes after it.

8 July 2007 K2 NW ridge Kazakhstan expedition. The team carried loads from BC (3900 m) to ABC (5000 m) by themselves, because porters wanted too much money for their help.

 

8 July 2007 Krasnoyarsk Broad Peak - Trango expedition. It was rain all the night, and the wind's strong. The guys decided only to prepare the route but to spend the night at the same place as yesterday. But the rain stopped in the morning, so the both teams took off their portaledges and began to climb. But on 9 a.m. they announced that this's the canjoning - climbers were ascending via narrow chimney under the real waterfall. They couldn't work after the midday and sat in the portaledge. Meantime Khvostenko's team (Ukraininan route) climbed successfully and set the portaledge after the 25th pitch. But the sun began to shine after 4 p.m. and climbers could to climb 3 ropes more.

7 July 2007 Krasnoyarsk Broad Peak - Trango expedition. The second team - A. Mikhalitcyn, E. Beljaev, I. Loginov and A. Komissarov - began climb the new route on NW Face Great Trango. Today they climbed 11 pitches, spent night on 7th.

Khovstenko's team climbed 15 pitches yestarday and set the portaledge on the end of 14th. Today they climbed 4 pitches moe (the weather's very bad)

6 July 2007 Krasnoyarsk Broad Peak - Trango expedition The team Oleg Khostenko, Vladimir Arkhipov, a. Litvinov? Y/ Glazyrin, S. Cherezov and A. Yanyshevitch began theich climb via Ukraininan (2003) route on Great Trango Tower NW Face.

5 July 2007 K2 - Broad peak Kuban expedition: the team set Camp 2 on 6750 m On photo: Kuban climber above Camp 2. There's chest-deep snow above C3 - all teams needof the cooperation their forces to climb the upper part of K2 in such snow conditions.

4 July 2007 Krasnoyarsk Broad Peak - Trango expedition after acclimatization at 4600 and 5500 m have choosen routes on NW Face Trango Tower. One team decided to climb the Ukraininan route (2003), other team - to do the first climb. They will start July, 6.

4 July 2007 Broad peak. The team of "Romantic Chiefs" (Russian-Latvian International team) set Camp 2 and descended to BC

4 July 2007 K2 - Broad peak Kuban expedition: the team set camp 1 on Abruzzi ridge.

4 July 2007 K2 NW ridge Kazakhstan expedition. The team reached BC at 3900 m after 15 time crossing Shaksgam river by camels.

1 July 2007 The team of "Romantic Chiefs" from Saint Petersburg reached Broad peak BC. They hope to climb this Karakorum giant. Today they have visited Russian K2 West Face expedition. Photo you can see at the official site www.k2-8611.ru

Mountaineering
World's news

30 July 2007 Claude Rey, french mountain guide died yesterday after falling in a crevasse on the Aletsch glacier, Switzerland. This 63 years old guide from Savoie, was the former president of UIAGM
(International Union of Mountain Guide Associations)

20 July 2007 K2: American climbers (Sharedsummits team) summited on 4-36 local time via normal route - Chris Warner, Bruce Normand and Don Bowie. Also one Korean woman and two Sherpas, one Korean man, Iranian Kazem Faridian, Daniele Nardi from Italy, Joao Garcia from Portugal and Czech Libor Uher have summited as well.

18 July 2007 Nanga Parbat. Two Chilean teams, Kinga Baranovska from Poland, Roberto 'Gorri' Rojo and Martin Gablik with Tono Sochy summited today!

15 July 2007 Nanga Parbat. Dodo Kopold, Peter Hamor and Piotr Morawski were on the summit at 13h38 and it was blowing hard. Weather forecasts were changing and they were starving because of the lack of food. On Friday Dodo had just one slice of salami. They decided to wait untill Sunday though. 20cm of snow fell down that day but Saturday was already sunny, no snowfall. They had a
rest, ate what they had had and started their attempt during the night. Now guys are back in C4, tomorrow they'll go to BC.

13 July 2007 Hidden peak. 7 Chinese/Tibetan and 3 Pakistan climbers have summited Gasherbrum 1 (Hidden Peak). Among the summiteers is JiJi - Rena's widow.

12 July 2007 Nanga Parbat. Dodo Kopold, Peter Hamor and Piotr Morawski climbed to C4 today and are going for the summit bid this night.

12 July 2007 Broad peak. Today on 12-30 Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Edurne Pasaban, Ivan Vallejo, Ralf Dujmovits, Fabio Iacchini, Carlos Pauner and Silvio Mondinelli summited Broad. Silvio became the 13th man in the World and the third Italian who has completed "14 8000-ers" program, without oxygen. Congratulations, Gnaro!

10 July 2007 November last year, American Christine Boskoff and Charlie Fowler went missing in China. Charlie was found in avalanche debris at the base of a 6,204m peak belonging to Genyen massif, Sichuan Province. With the onset of winter, recovery efforts for Christine were suspended until now, when her body was found on the peak along with her passport and camera late last week.

Boskoff was covered with stones on Monday and will be brought down later by Chinese climbers, AP reports. Christine climbed 6 8000-ers and mantled the Himalayan commercial outfit Mountain Madness after founder Scott Fisher vanished on Everest in 1996. (www.mounteverest.net)

9 July 2007 Nanga Parbat. Dodo Kopold, Peter Hamor and Piotr Morawski reached 3 on July, 4

1 July 2007 Dodo Kopold, Peter Hamor and Piotr Morawski reached Nanga Parbat BC June, 26 and set Camp 1 June, 27.

1 July 2007 Broad peak. The first climb of the Karakorum season made by Austrians Andreas Bucher, Julia Walser and Reinhard Kofler, German Ernst-Robert Zauner
already June, 24. Though they ascended behind Kuban team, saving their energy while Russians broke the deep trail from the bottom of Broad peak till 7800 m