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August 2007 news

31 August 2007 K2 NW ridge Kazakhstan expedition.Radio contact 10.00 (Almaty time) Puchinin is descending, now he's about 7500 and feels well. Serfuey Bogomolov turned back at 8200 too. Pivtsov and Zhumayev are climbing further. Puchinin has to wait Bogomolov and then both will descend to the "Tooth"

Radio contact 8-00 (Almaty): We spent the night in C4. YEsterday we fixed 400 m uo alomg the rocks and appeared under the rock wall. We begin to climb it and to find the way. Angrew Puchinin turned back.

Ervand Iljinsky looks on climbers in binoculars from the Middle Camp and corrects the direction.(www.mountain.kz)

30 August 2007 K2 NW ridge Kazakhstan expedition. 12-00: Serguey Bogomolov radioed that the team climbed 3 ropes above C4. They decided to try to reach the summit over the rocks, because the original Japanese way is too avalanche-prone, the current conditions in qouloir are not good enough for the climbers. (www.mountain.kz)

29 August 2007 K2 NW ridge Kazakhstan expedition. Today the Kazakh team is ascending to Camp 4. The weather becames better (all the way to C3 they did in the very bad weather - snow blizzard, strong wind) They hope for the summit bid tomorrow or the day after.
4 p.m. radio contact with the team: they were about 100 m below C4. The main problem is to find the safe way from the ridge to the glacier. Last time they have found the couloir, but it was too dangerous. Now, after snowfalls, they hope that the couloir is safe enough, in other case they have to overcome via the rocks.

27 August 2007 K2 North Ridge. Denis and Serguey. SMS Aug 26, 15-15: Urubko and Samoilov have reaxhed BC with camels caravan, now they begin the acclimatization push in spite of bad weather.

27 August 2007 K2 NW ridge Kazakhstan expedition. The team began theit summit bid 2 days ago, but the weather's bad, so Serguey Brodsky and Alex Sofrygin are back in BC. Others are on the route above C1.

22 August 2007 K2 West Face expedition. 8 p.m. local time. All climbers are safe and sound. Shabalin and Tukhvatullin are in C1, Mariev and Popovich are in BC, others are in ABC.

22 August 2007 K2 West Face expedition.

15-00 Pavel Shabalin and Iljas Tukhvatullin are on the top!!!

12-50 Victor Volodin, Gennady Kirievsky and Vitaly Gorelik are on the top!!

11-50 Eugeny Vinogradsky on the top!!!

11-10 Gleb Sokolov is on the top!!!

10-45 Nickolay Totmjanin and Alexey Bolotov are on the top!!!

10-15 a.m. The ascent is continuing

8-15 a.m. 7 climbers are going up from C6. Pavel and Iljas are preparing to start up in C7.

21 August 2007 K2 West Face expedition.

6-15 p.m. Two summeteers are in C6. There're also 7 climbers. Shabalin and Tukhvatullin will spent the second night at 8400 without oxygen.

4-15 p.m.
Mariev and Popovich descended to C7, where Shabalin and Tukhvatullin are. Seven climbers are in C6. Penzov, Shamalo and Cherny are in ABC

Summit!!! 12-50 radio contact with Andrew Mariev and Vadim Popovich - they're on the top.

Andrew Mariev Vadim Popovich

20 August 2007 K2 West Face expedition.

6 p.m. Shabalin's group are in Camp 7 at 8400. 4 climbers are in C6 at 8150 m. Three climbers are in C5. Two climbers descended - Valery to ABC, Serguey to C3

4 p.m. Shabalin's group begins to set Camp 7 at 8400. 4 climbers will reach C6 soon. Three climbers are in C5. Two climbers are descending...

2 p.m. Shabalin - Mariev - Tukhvatullin - Popovich are ascending above Camp 6. Volodin - Penzov and Sokolov - Vinogradsky - Gorelik are ascending to C6 Valery Shamalo is descending, he is below C2 already

12-00 The visibility became better. Shabalin's group is heading up from C6. Bolotov-Totmjanin-Kirievsky reached C5. Sokolov-Vinogradsky-Gorelik-Penzov-Volodin are climbing to C6.

10-15 Shabalin - Mariev - Tukhvatullin - Popovich waiting in C6: too heavy K2mist, poor visibility. Totmjanin - Bolotov - Kirievsky are close to C5.

 

 

8-15 Shabalin - Mariev - Tukhvatullin - Popovich left C6 on 6 a.m., 2climbed more than a hour, but had to turn back to their tent - there's deep mist, and visibility is only 50 m, and wind impulses are too strong. They're waiting the weather improving in C6. Penzov - Volodin - Sokolov - Vinogradsky - Gorelik are leaving C5 for C6. Valery Shamalo begins the descent from C5 according to the recomendation of the doctor Vinogradsky. Totmjanin - Bolotov - Kirievsky left C4 for C5.

19 August 2007 K2 West Face expedition. The summit push is on! all are going up.

19 August 2007 K2 North Ridge. Denis and Serguey. Urubko and Samoilov are in Ilik (China) and begin thei way to K2 BC by camels.

18 August 2007 K2 NW ridge Kazakhstan expedition. Serguey Bogomolov called from BC: all the team is here. we rest and wait next weather window.

15 August 2007 K2 NW ridge Kazakhstan expedition. SMS from Serguey Bogomolov: Today the team sat in Camp 4 all the day. There was no visibility, and the wind was strong. Climbers will decide tomorrow what to do further.

Yesterday the team set Camp 4 at 7800. Then reached 8050 m. Chest-deep snow. Avalanche danger. Serguey Bogomolov has just written: we're sitting at 7800. The weather is zero... There're no perspective...

14 August 2007 K2 West Face expedition. Victor Kozlov called from BC today evening: Sokolov's group retreated from C5 to ABC, Shabalin's group is in C1. Volodin - Shamalo-Penzov asended to ABC. Strong wind.

14 August 2007 The only way of finding the limits of the possible is by K2 North RIdgegoing beyond them into the impossible. Arthur C. Clarke

K2 North Ridge. Denis and Serguey. Urubko and Samoilov departed tomorrow morning from Almaty to Bishkek. THen they'll go to China border.

14 August 2007 K2 West Face expedition. Victor Kozlov called from BC today morning: Sokolov's group is in C5, Shabalin's group is in C1. Strong wind.

13 August 2007 K2 NW ridge Kazakhstan expedition. Both groups are working on the route. Aug, 12 they reached 7500-7600 m and set the tent, but hope to set C4 at about 7750. Yesterday they continued to climb (no news yet)

12 August 2007 K2 West Face expedition. Totmjanin - Kirievsky - Bolotov are in BC. Sokolov - Gorelik - Vinogradsky are in C5.

11 August 2007 K2 West Face expedition. Totmjanin - Kirievsky - Bolotov are in ABC.

10 August 2007 K2 West Face expedition. Difficult rock became the barrier only 100 m below the summit. Exhausted climbers began to descend. All are in C6 already.

Frontline trio left C6 on 5 a.m. and goes toward the summit through the very deep snow

9 August 2007 K2 West Face expedition.Hard work in the deep snow. The trio Alexey Bolotov, Gennady Kirievsky and Nickolay Totmjanin are heading to K2 summit.

In morning: No news from the route. Today morning Denis Urubko wrote from Almaty: "I'm worried about Russians. The upper part of the West Face seems not so long, but nevertheless they may need three days to climb it..."

8 August 2007 Krasnoyarsk Trango - Broad Peak - expedition. Aug, 5 the team set camp at 7100. Three days after that guys waited when the snowfall and storm wind stop, but both continued last night too. The slope heading to the col at 7800 is too avalanche dangerous. The team has to abort their work on the Broad peak - porters will come Aug, 10.

K2 NW ridge8 August 2007 K2 NW ridge Kazakhstan expedition. After the rest in BC the half of the team started yesterday to climb the route. Now the weather's bad yet, but they hope for the true forecast for next days. THey need to set Camp 4. More pictures

7 August 2007 K2 West Face expedition. They're still in C5. THe weather's too bad - snowfall and hard wind.

6 August 2007 K2 West Face expedition. Three climbers are in C5

5 August 2007 K2 West Face expedition. Alexander Korobkov has been evacuated from BC

K2 West Face3 August 2007 K2 West Face expedition. So, it'a a time for the finish push. It's the very hard wind at high altitude now, but the duo Alexey Bolotov and Gennady Kirievsky is ascending from C1 and the trio Nickolay Totmjanin - Valery Shamalo - Victor Volodin is ascending from ABC. They hope to reach C5 and then begin their summit bid as soon as the weather improves.

3 August 2007 K2 NW ridge Kazakhstan expedition. The storm on the Mount. The first trio descended to BC yesterday in 12 hours. The trio Brodsky, Bogomolov and Puchinin reached yesterday C3 (7100), brought 700 m of ropes for the way to C4. At night the storm began. The avalanche hited the tent and broke it but nobody was injured. All are descending.

2 August 2007 K2 NW ridge Kazakhstan expedition. The team set Camp 3 at 7100 yesterday.

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8 August 2007 K2 West Face. Kopold's team announced about changing plans: they decided to try Chesen route, because the weather don't give chance for West Face climb.

8 August 2007 K6 (6934 m), new route. 25-y.o. son of Piotr Pustelnik - Adam - opened new route with his Belgian mates Sean Villanueva, and Nicolas and Olivier Favresse. The new route, named "Ledgeway to Heaven" diff. up to 7b+, 1300 m, 28 pitches. The climb lasted 28 hours, 39 with the descent. (www.mounteverest.net)