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May 2008 news

27 May, 2008 Navarra's goverment has acorded to give all 14 climbers, who were in rescue team on Annapurna and to Inaki Ochoa the Gold Medal to the Sport Merit, he most important honor in the region sport. The climbers are Romanians Horia Colibasanu, Alex Gavan and Mihnea Radulescu; Swiss Ueli Steck and Simon Anthamatten; Russians Alexey Bolotov and Serguey Bogomolov; Kazakh Denis Urubko; Canadian Don Bowie; Polish Robert Szymczak and five Sherpas: Pemba Ongchu Sherpa, Ongchu Sherpa, Wangchu Sherpa and Chhiring Finjo Sherpa.

26 May, 2008 Everest. Bahadur Sherchan, 76 (Nepal) reached the top. He is about 77 already. He's broken the previous age record on Everest, set by Katsusuke Yanagisawa last year.

26 May, 2008 Annapurna. Alexey Bolotov summited Main top May, 19.

It is about impossible to personally express our gratitude to all those who helped us at overcoming our pain of loosing Inaki, we would like to tell that through the words of so many cheer messages, through the vital cooperation and the work developed along those intense days of personal efforts at fighting his deadly disappearing, have been an important medicine to sooth our pain.

The disappearance of someone as healthy and stable, so bright and joyful as Inaki has awaken a social solidarity movement with his way of walking through life and mountains, far above expectations. By noticing the help you all wanted to bring him right in front of death, you allow us to believe and feel that there are reasons not to forget his joy, and to hope that his style helps others to build their own love for freedom.

Father, Mother and Brothers of Inaki Ochoa de Olza Seguin, May 23, 2008

All climbers descended to BC May, 24, Four Sherpas descended May, 25. The heli is waited this morning.

Serguey Bogomolov called May, 23 on 16-00 from C2. There were he, Alexey, 4 Sherpas and one Romanian. All are OK. In C3 are Denis and Don. Denis didn't go to C4 because Ueli refused from his help and sayd that he's OK and will descend tomorrow morning by himself. So, Den and Don will descend from C3 in the morning too.

Alexey summited Annapurna I (8091) May, 19 on 12-30 local time. He returned to C5 on 19-00, there was tent, his sleeping bag, stove. Guys descended to C4 already. When Alex came there in 10-00 a.m. next day, he saw Inaki very ill, unconscious and with 4 frostbitten fingers already. Alex don't know where and how Inaki was frostbitten, because when he saw him last time Inaki was OK.

May, 19 early morning they started from C5, which stayed at the very edge of huge crack between East and Main tops. They had to descend 150 m and than to ascent again. Alex climbed first, and when he looked back (he climbed already opposite side of crack) he saw guys, who turned back - he doesn't know why. The weather was acceptable. Soon they couldn't see each other...

24 May, 2008 Annapurna. In spite of all efforts, Inaki couldnТt make it. Further pulmonary complications had worsened up his state, until he passed away at 12.30 pm, local time. Ueli Steck was with the sick Spaniard, trying to reanimate him until the end. Denis Urubko, on a desperate attempt against exhaustion and loads of fresh snow, was four hours away from C4.

Inaki Ochoa de OlzaSince he fell suddenly ill in c4, Inaki has never been alone. His mate Horia Colibasanu kept him alive until Swiss Ueli Steck, who had abandoned his previous plans to open a new route on Anna and jumped to the rescue instead, reached the tent and took care. In addition, two further back-up rescue teams were already in place.

Right now, priorities turn to those who are on the mountain. Denis is still on his way up to help and support Ueli. The Kazakh had stormed up from C2 at 2:00 am today, decided to reach Inaki as soon as possible in spite of loads of snow on the route. Alexey Bolotov (who had refused to go back down to BC and instead started up again loaded with O2 canisters for Inaki) and Don Bowie have retreated to C3, where they will wait for Denis and Ueli.

Russian Serguey Bogomolov and Polish Doctor Robert Szymczak are wating for the four of them in C2. The third rescue team comprising Romanian Alex Gavan and Minhea Radulescu, together with a group of Sherpas, who might had departed BC earlier this morning, shall be on their way back down or already in BC.

Conditions on the mountain are currently rather rough. In addition to excess of snow, Bogomolov noted on his latest call today that the south face of Annapurna is wrapped in a thick fog, and visibility is poor.

The rescues at 8000 are not a Hollywood films about mountains... and not always have the happy end...

(Russianclimb together with ExWeb.com)

23 May, 2008 Annapurna. International Expedition. INCREDIBLE RESCUE.

Inaki Ochoa is very ill in C4 (7400) International rescue team try to help him.

7-00 I just spoke with Serguey Bogomolov. He and Robert (Poland) are in C2. Simon and Horia were picked up by heli from C2 Other rescuers are going up to C2. Serguey saw three climbers at 6500 - Denis, Don and... Alexey Bolotov. Alexey decided to join rescuers, and to help them to bring oxygen bottles to C3.
In that moment Denis turn on his radio, and I listened all the connection between him and Seguey: "Hello, Serguey Georgievich! We're OK, but very tired... very heavy snow... I think, we'll reach C3 in 2-3 hours... Let's have next connect in 10-00. Bye..." I listened as Denis breathing very hard, like on Elbrus speed ascent...Bolotov is incredible!

So, next news in 10-00 MSK. Lena. www.Russianclimb.com

22 May, 2008 Everest. Swiss mountain guide Uwe Gianni Goltz died May 21 shortly before Camp IV (7.900), due to physical exhaustion after an attempt to summit Everest without oxygen. The fatality has been confirmed by the Swiss climbing association, according to Agence France-Presse.(www.mounteverest.net)

22 May, 2008 Annapurna. International Expedition. INCREDIBLE RESCUE.

19-25 Serguey Bogomolov has just called from Pokhara. Alexey, Denis, Don and Sherpa (couldn't understand his name by phone - he's going up to bring high-altitude boots for Ueli) are in C2. Alexey os OK, tomorrow he'll descend to BC. Horia and Simon are in C3. Denis and Don went up today during many hours, very big altitude difference and too much snow. Tomorrow they hope to reach C4 with oxygen for Inaki. Heli pilots said that it's too much snow to land in C2, so it's more real to land between C1 and C2 - they'll see and will do their best. That's all. With hope, Lena
www.Russianclimb.com

Early morning today Denis Urubko and Don Bowie flyed by heli from POkhara, landed 4 km below BC, and started go up to C2, they have oxygen bottles for Inaki. Other rescue team wait acceptable weather in POkhara.

Inaki is in C4 with Ueli Steck, Horia descended to C3 - he's there with Simon.

18 May, 2008 Annapurna. International Expedition. Fresh news, forwarded by Jorge: "Three climbers are in Camp 5 (7.830 meters), below the east summit and have fixed 200 meters of rope in the final traverse. The weather was cold in the morning and snowfall in the afternoon, but I?aki thinks that they have a good chance if the weather respect them tomorrow morning. He said that maybe they will have to descend until 7.600 meters below a fracture that borns in the central summit. Tomorrow is the final push. The three of them (Inaki, Alex Bolotov and Horia Colibasanu) are ok and optmist".

17 May, 2008 Annapurna. International Expedition. Evening: "they are now in Camp 4 (7.500 meters) in the east ridge. The weather is ok and they are in good shape. Tomorrow they will climb until Camp 5 (7.900 meters) and on monday to the summit. It seems that tomorrow they will hace to fix 130 meters of rope between Camp 5 and the final traverse to the summit, but it`s uncertain still. Inaki said that the place is simply incredible"

Morning: Inaki Ochoa, Horia Kolibasanu and Alex Bolotov are climbing up above C3 (6900)

15 May, 2008 Manaslu. Germans Thomas Lammle and Casten Otto
summited May, 14 on 12.00 and Australian climber Michael Parker summited two hours later.

16 May, 2008 Makalu. Romanian Alex Gavan reached summit on May 12.

16 May, 2008 Annapurna. International Expedition. News came today from Jorge (Inaki Ochoa's web team): Inaki Ochoa de Olza, from the Lorpen-Diario de Navarra expedition, the Romanian Horia Colibasanu and the Russian Alexey Bolotov were yesterday in C2 (6.200m), in a new summit push for Annapurna Main Summit. The ascent plan is today in C3 at 6.900m, on Saturday around 7.400m, Sunday at 7.900 meters below the East summit and, on Monday, go to the top of main summit.

15 May, 2008 Manaslu. Maxut Zhumayev summited on 10-00 local time - it's his 12th 8000-er and the first Manaslu ascent this season.

13 May, 2008 Makalu. Denis Urubko team: All the team descended to BC! Congratulations! It's the second Svetlana's and Eugeny's 8000-er w/o, and the thirteenth for Denis. They have just called and said they're happy. Tomorrow the team will leave BC, porters are already there. Svetlana: "We started from 7900 on 4 a.m. It was very hard climb for me, especially above 8000. The route is by rocks, I climbed without oxygen... We topped out on 12 a.m. And I was weakened on the descent, couldn't go down at 7900, I've lost all my energy, so we had to stay for the night there. Denis descended to 7400, for three of us could sleep more comfortable ..."

12 May, 2008 Makalu. Denis Urubko team: Denis, Eugeny Shutov, Boris Dedeshko and Svetlana Sharipova summited today. It's Denis' 13th 8000-er.

11 May, 2008 Makalu. Denis Urubko team, 17-00 MSK: "We're at 7900. About ten climbers from other teams have already summited today. We are going to start to the top on 3-4 a.m."

10 May, 2008 Makalu. Denis Urubko team, SMS 7-47 MSK: "I'm in the tent at 7400, boiling water for teammates. There're nobody in Camp 3. It looks like about 15 persons had gone up to 7800 early today. Many climbers were descending from 7400 today morning".

9 May, 2008 Manaslu. Maxut Zhumayev: "Yesterday I was forced to turn back after fixing 150 m of ropes along the icefall above C4. Descended to C3. Today I'm in BC, resting. Tomorrow I'll go up again, the caravan back to KTM is ordered to May, 17".

9 May, 2008 Makalu. Denis Urubko team, SMS today, 15-15 MSK: "Holiday wishes to you! Great Day forever! We're at 6700. All is OK". Summit bid is on.

8 May, 2008 Manaslu. Maxut Zhumayev: "We started on 8 a.m. Set Camp 4 at 7250 m. The snowfall lasted all the day".

8 May, 2008 Annapurna. Serguey Bogomolov: Yesterday the team began the summit bid (Annapurna East, 8020 m). But the weather has worsened during the sturm - the wind 40 km/h and -20C. Only Alexey Bolotov has reached the top. He devoted his ascent to President Dmitry Medvedev's inauguration. Now all the team is in C5 at 7300.

8 May, 2008 Everest. Chinese team has reached the top with Olympic torch today on 9-10 local time.

6 May, 2008 Makalu. May, 5 at 17:30h we received the news that Percy (Flight Lieutenant Jonathon Percival) and Dawa had reached the Summit of Makalu,Ф reported the British Navy expedition

6 May, 2008 Dhaulagiri. Rafael Guillen died on the mountain last weekend, he fell to his death while helping down team mate Jesus Morales. Rafael had turned around during the team's summit bid on May 1, while Jesus pushed on and eventually summited together with an Argentinean climber. On descent, Jesus showed symptoms of frostbite/hypothermia, so Rafael ran to meet him and help him down, while sending an SOS call to another team mate, David Ferrer, who was at a lower camp after having renounced to attempt the summit. (www.mounteverest.net)

6 May, 2008 Annapurna. Serguey Bogomolov: May, 2 The second day of our third push. We work by 4-persons team. We're in C2. Snow and wind, as predicted. May, 3: Third day of the third push. It was very difficult, because we hadn't found our deposit. We stay under the serak in the crevasse. We were very cold† We're in C4. May, 4:Today Alexey and Alexander fixed ropes above Camp 4. Me and Dmitry†have found our deposit and have dug it†out of†1,5 m of snow. We were lucky. Inaki, Horia and Don are in C2.

5 May, 2008 Makalu. Denis Urubko team, SMS today: "We're in BC, rest after two nights at 7400. We decided to go to 4700 tomorrow, to recover on the grass. We plan to start to the summit bid May, 8. Eugeny announces the auction - he sells the oxygen bottle, used by the first summiteers of Makalu - the French team 1955. We have identified the bottle by photo. He has found it at 7800".

the call from May, 3: Denis and Boris have spent two days at 7400 m, today ascended to 7500, and tomorrow will descend to BC. Today Svetlana and Eugeny reached 7400 too and will spend two nights there, and then will return to BC. So, the acclimatization will be completed. All are brave, there's fun atmosphere in the team, with a lot of jokes. The further plan is to rest about 4 days and then start from BC to the summit (planned for May, 9) The weather's fine, all are health. Send greetings to all who support the team with SMSs, which climbers can't answer yet....

5 May, 2008 Annapurna. Serguey Bogomolov: May, 1: Greetings to all with Labour Day! We began our third push, started in four-persons team, only Russians. Now we're in Camp 1. Inaki and Horia desended to BC for the rest, and Don joined them. The forecast promised snowfall, and here it is.

2 May, 2008 Dhaulagiri. Valery Babanov and Nickolay Totmjanin summited yesterday via NE ridge.

2 May, 2008 Annapurna. Serguey Bogomolov: Apr, 29. All the week we have problems with Thuraya connections. We have some Thuraya phones, and all don't work as usual... We suppose, it deals with Olimpic torch... Alexey Bolotov, Dmitry Sinev, alexander Lutokhin, Don Bowie and me have set Camp 4 at 6800 and came back to BC. It's great, we weren't sure that were able to manage it, we were afraid the won't find good place for the tent. But we're lucky. Ilya Rozhkov, Arcady Ryzhenko and Dmitry Frolenko can't continue the climb and began their way home. We rest in BC three days now, then will go up. Inaki and Horia are in Camp 3 now.

Blue line on photo - team's rpute with Camps. The second photo - view from Camp 4.

 

2 May, 2008 Makalu. Denis Urubko: Yesterday the team climbed to 6700 and returned back to BC. Svetlana stayed in BC at 5600. Today all the team is giong up tp 6700, then plan to ascend to 7400 and 7800, and then, if the weather and power will be enough, they can try the summit.

2 May, 2008 After summiing of Dhaulagiri May, 1, Equadorian Ivan Ivan Vallejo Vallejo became the climber number 14 on the unique list of people in the world who have scaled all the world's tallest mountains - the fourteen 8000ers, also became only the seventh mountaineer in the world to have done them all without supplementary oxygen. Also DAvid Gotter and Radek Jaros summited. Congratulations! Photo chatting with ExWeb editor Angela Benavides.

2 May, 2008 Dhaulagiri. Yesterday Al Filo team members Ivan Vallejo (Ecuador), Ferran Latorre and Nacho Orviz (Spain) and Fernando Gonzalez-Rubio (Columbia) were the first to set foot on Dhaula summit. Edurne Pasaban (on her 10th 8000er), Asier izaguirre, Alex Txicon and Muptu Sherpa followed some 30 minutes later. All Al Filo summiteers made it safely back to C3. Also Spaniard Carlos Pauner topped out his 8th 8000er at 2:00 pm, Nepal time. Team mate Marta Alejandre reached the summit 90 minutes later. Carlos reported on fierce wind, thunder and lightning while he was on the summit. Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner also summited Dhaulagiri, so she has now 11 8000-ers