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June - July 2008 news

24 July, 2008 Nanga Parbat.Walter Nones and Simon Kehrer are safe and sound in BC! After 10 days on Nanga Parbat, of which two were spent blocked at 6600m due to bad weather, the two Italian mountaineers managed to ski down to 5700m where they were picked up by helicopter and flown to Base Camp. One must underline immediately that during this ugly adventure Nones and Kehrer acted extremely well, for what they chose to do and how they managed to escape from an truly difficult situation, both psychologically and physically. And one must also say that, during this moment of great happiness, the pain for the loss of Karl Unterkircher must surely remain at the forefront. (www.planetmountain.com)

23 July, 2008 Denis Urubko. Annapurna days.

21 July, 2008 Nanga Parbat - Karl Unterkircher lost. Unterkircher, Walter Nones and Simon Kehrer were opening a new route on Nangas Rakhiot face. Montagna.org. reported that Karl Unterkircher was breaking trail slightly above 6000m, when a snow ledge collapsed below him and he fell into a crevasse. Walter and Simon spent the entire night trying to save their buddy, all their efforts in vain. Climbing out of the serac area, the two climbers then proceeded up to 7000 meters, in order to exit the face. Silvio Mondinelli has been urgently airlifted from Italy and, together with Mauricio Gallo, is in BC to assist. Chris Warner and an Italian team are also holding to help from the Diamir side. (mounteverest.net)

20 July, 2008 Broad Peak. Valery Shamalo, Pavel Chochia and Elizabeth Revol (France) summited via normal route July, 17. Valery Babanov and Victor Afanasiev (France) summited via new route.

20 July, 2008 Nanga Parbat. 5 Iranian climbers - Hosein Abolhasani, Sahand Aghdai, Saman Nemati, Mohammad Norouzi and Ehsan Partoee.
summited Jily, 17 at 4 p.m. But the sixth member of the group, who turned back from 7800, haven't reached Camp 4 yet. The group began to try to find him. (www.mounteverest.net)

14 July, 2008 Broad peak. Only Dodo and French team had topped out, other climbers attempts weren't successful yet. Igor Svergun from Ukrainian Broad peak expedition SMS-ed today, that he and Serguey Bershov (2-persons team) did two attepts of the sturm (July 13 and 14), but were forced to wait the better conditions at 7200 (three night already), and Valery Babanov after 2 nights at 7600 decided to leave new route and to join to Ukrainians - together they have more chances to reach the summit in the deep snow. Today evening they have to decide if to go up or down... (alpclub.com.ua)

14 July, 2008 Nanga Parbat The German Amical Alpin Expedition. Rainer Pircher, Thomas Streng, Nardi Danelle, Mario Panzeri, Nisar Hussain and Ali Muhammad all summited Nanga on June 26.

Nisar completed all 8000 meter peaks in Pakistan. From the Sadpara Village near Skardu, Nisar Hussain was the first Baltistani to summit K2 in 2004. He is now the third Pakistani and second Baltistani mountaineer to have summited all the 8000+ peaks in Pakistan.

14 July, 2008 GII. Peter Hamor and Piotr Morawski reached the summit of Gasherbrum II, in alpine style, on July 6th. They did the traverse of GI and GII, the great achievement, 24 years after Messner and Kammerlander. "The main difference between the two parties is that the Italians started
on G2 and it took them 4 days from G2 top to the summit of G1 (and 7 days of total climbing). The Poles started on G1 and it took them 11 days from G1 top to the summit of G2 (and 20 days climbing)." "It is an incredible achievement for Poland, to revisit a very difficult conquest that remained unrepeated for 24 years," Rodrigo states.

GII also summited by Jorge Egocheaga and Martin Ramos (www.mounteverest.net)

30 June, 2008 Dodo Kopold's great success! 15th of June, Dodo Kopold and Vlado Plulik (both Slovakia) summited Gasherbrum I. They managed it from the saddle
between GI and GII in one push in 16 hours (up and down, north face). In 15 days from their arrival under the Gasherbrums they both climbed Gasherbrum I and Dodo climbed also the French pillar of
Gasherbrum II (alpine style, the 9th of June, when Vlado finished some 300m under the summit). June, 26 Dodo summited Broad peak. The 25th Dodo Kopold and Vlado Plulik started from Broad Peak BC. They arrived 300m below the summit in the afternoon, had some rest there and returned to 7200m, where they had left some gear. In the morning Vlado continued the normal route and probably didn?t summit. Dodo continued up, through a new variation of the route, and reached the top at about 9 pm (the 26th). He said this was his hardest climb yet in Himalaya. Conditions were really bad. He had to bivouac at
8000 meters on descent, without gear or a tent. He is now in BC

28 June, 2008 The presentation of the new Victor Kozlov's film about the climb of K2 West Face by Russian team was held in Moscow June, 26. The English version of the film will be prepared soon.