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August - December 2008 news

9 October, 2008 Manaslu. Oct, 5 Edurne Pasaban with Al Filo team summited at 9-00. She climbed without supplementary oxygen. Manaslu became her 11-th 8000-er! Alex Chicón, Asier Izaguirre, Mikel Zabalza, Ester Sabadel, Ferran Latorre and Juanjo Garra also reached the top. They began sturm in 3-30 a.m. and the wind was very strong. Now Edurne is planning Shisha Pangma climb.

Edurne Pasaban

And the day earlier, Oct, 4, at 10-00 Nives Meroi together with Romano Benet and Luca Vuerich reached the same summit. It also became her 11-th 8000-er! They used the help of Sherpas from the commercial group - to break the trail until the presummit.

Nives Meroi

9 October, 2008 Manaslu. Vassily Pivtsov (Kazakhstan) reached the top Oct, 3.

24 September, 2008 IV International Elbrus Race. Press release. Roman Gubanov is the Winner in Extreme class, Serguey Fursov - the Winner in Classic route, Anna Petrova - the Winner among women.


3 September, 2008 Alex Huber recently completed three bold accomplishments in Europe:
a 400-meter free solo—climbing unroped both up and down—of the Swiss Route (5.10c) on the Grand Capucin, and two new ground-up 5.14a routes in the Tyrolean Alps. Ropeless, Huber ascended and descended the Swiss Route, which involves 300 vertical meters
of rock climbing, up to 5.10c, and 100 vertical meters of couloirs. Huber also established two difficult sport climbs in Tyrol, Sansara (5.14a) and Feuertaufe (5.14a).
Of the latter, Huber said, “This seven-pitch climb is really wild. The crux move is some 7 meters
above the bolt and therefore this route could be well the most challenging sport climb in the Alps.” (www.alpinist.com)

28 August, 2008 Tien Shan. Denis Urubko, Boris Dedeshko and Gennady Urubko's new route on 8womenclimbers peakDurov had climbed the new route on Eight women-climbers Peak (6110 m) in alpine style, 6A Russian Grade, 33 pitches. This peak was topped only once in 1974 via South ridge. Nobody tryed it during 34 years. Before this climb the team "trained" on two other new routes - Bayankol (5A Russian Grade) and Peak Kazakhstan (4B Russian Gradt). It was the real exploration in wild Central Tien Shan. Mountaineers usually arrive there for Khan-Tengry normal route only, and nobody try to broad opinions for the different routes or mountains. Meanwhile, Central Tien Shan is a great mountain country with very bad climate conditions - a bad weather and strong high-altitude difficulties. Bottoms of mountains are lokated at 4000 m, tops - at 6000-7000 m.






28 August, 2008 Muztag Tower. After having raised the alarm Dejan Miskovic began the difficult descent down the French route. Despite bad weather and total lack of equipment (tent, sleeping bag, food, drink, stove etc) Miskovic survived three bivvies and managed to descend to 5400m, where he was finally rescued by helicopter and flown to safety.

28 August, 2008 Edurne Pasaban are going to Manaslu this fall. It may became her 11th 8000-er. In Al Filo team are also Mikel Zabalza, Alex Txicón, Esther Sabadell o Asier Izaguirre (www.desnivel.com)

26 August, 2008 Slovenian alpinist Pavle Kozjek has been reported missing on the striking and seldom-climbed Muztagh Tower (7284m) in Pakistan's Karakoram range. Kozjek, Dejan Miskovic and Gregor Kresal had traveled to Pakistan to attempt a new route on the unclimbed 2200-meter north face in alpine style. On Monday, August 25, Miskovic phoned friends in Slovenia that he and Kozjek had set up a bivy tent somewhere on the mountain near a cornice. Kozjek had emerged from the tent and approached the cornice when he fell down the face. The exact details of the incident are unclear, and there remains hope that in the morning, a rescue attempt will be made.

25 August, 2008 Mont Blanc. Eight climbers - five Austrian and three Swiss - are feared dead on Mont Blanc du Tacul after a serac fell on the ascent route 3.00 am on Sunday. Mont Blanc du Tacul (4.248m), easily reachable from l’Aguille du Midi cable car and the Cosmiques refuge, is a popular climb by itself, and the first stage on one of the most visited routes to Mont Blanc – the tallest peak in Western Europe at 4,810m.

Tacul climb’s main obstacles are large seracs rising right above the route, and a number of crevasses. Therefore, danger and difficulty varies from one day to the next, depending on conditions. Higher average temperatures in later years have increased the objective risks on MB du Tacul: Crevasses are larger, snow bridges weaker, and seracs more unstable. An early departure is therefore mandatory but, as facts have sadly proved (www.mounteverest.net)