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April - May 2010 news

23 May, 2010 Makalu, Ukraine expedition Summit!!! Bublik, Venslavovsky and Roshko are on the Makalu top. Two climbers from other expedition (from normal route) reached top at the same time. Ukrainians decised to descend via normal route. Detailes will be tomorrow.

17 May, 2010 Shisha Pangma. Edurne Pasaban summited today at 11-30 local time. It's her 14th 8000-er! The second woman who 's completed the program 14Q. Asier Izaguirre, Alex Txicon, Nacho Orviz summited too. Italians Mario Panzieri, Michele Compagnoni and Alberto Magliano have summited as well, Montagna.tv reports. Congrats! (info: http://www.mounteverest.net)

Edurne Pasaban

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

17 May, 2010 Lhotse normal route: Kazakh team led by Maxut Zhumayev summited May, 16. It was 13th 8000-er for Maxut and Vassily Pivtsov. (detailes about the summiteers list will be soon)

Urubko route on LhotseLhotse new route! SMS from Denis Urubko (8-00 MSK): " May, 16 I climbed new route to Lhotse from South Col. I was alone. Started at 6-10, topped at 11-30, descended to C2 at 16-00. Congrats to Kazakhstan with new line at 8000"

14 May, 2010 Lhotse, Russian expedition. SMS from BC (11-30 MSK): "The team which'll bring Duganov's body down, reached only 7400. Alexey, Vladimir, Nickolay and Gennady will start for summit tomorrow. Only short weather window May, 16-17. Next after May, 23. Crossing fingers..."

12 May, 2010 Makalu, Ukraine expedition The team waits weather improving in BC. Karl Gabl from Austria, who provides the forecast for the expedition, recomends to wait till May, 23...

. . (), , 23 ...

11 May, 2010 Lhotse, Russian expedition. SMS from Alexey Bolotov: The team'll try to bring down Duganov's body to BC.

10 May, 2010 Lhotse-Everest. Denis Urubko has acclimatized at South Col. He spent night there May, 8 and May, 9 descended to BC in 5 hours.

10 May, 2010 Lhotse, Russian expedition. Five climbers were going up to Lhotse top May, 7: Alexey Bolotov, Gennady Kirievsky, Nickolay Totmjanin, Vladimir Belous and Serguey Duganov. Serguey Duganov died May, 7 at 7800 during the descent. THis info came from Maxut Zhumayev. No details, no official report from the expedition yet. Our sincere condolences to Serguey's family and friends...

6 May, 2010 Makalu, Ukraine expedition The team set the tent at 7750 m on the West ridge. They've already climb SW Face and now work at the ridge leads to the top. . . 7750

 

5 May, 2010 Lhotse-Everest. Simone Moro & Denis Urubko are again in EBC. THeir client Aldo became ill, and decided to abort his Everest climb, and left Nepal yesterday. Now he's in Italy already. Simone and Denis are going to climb up tomorrow for the acclimatizing push till 8000 m. What'll be further, they'll decide soon.

1 May, 2010 Lhotse-Everest. Simone Moro & Denis Urubko rest in KTM with the client Aldo, after they succesfully acclimatized till 7350 m. Next week they plan to climb Everest. We'll have a chance to see Denis in oxygen mask: he'd to save energy before next very important climb Lhotse-Everest. On the picture: Denis and Aldo at 6900 (simonemoro.wordpress.com)

1 May, 2010 Lhotse, Kazakhstan team descended from C2 to BC for the rest.

1 May, 2010 Lhotse, Russian expedition. Today the team began the summit bid. Some pictures from C3.

29 April, 2010 Annapurna.Tolo alafat lost at 7600. He couldn't descent to C4 in the summit day, and spent the night out. In the morning his Sherpa borought the sleeping bag, oxygen and food from C4, because Tolo couldn't move. Karlos and Juanito were frostbitten and snowblinded, spent two nights in C4 with Horia Kolibasanu, who helped them. Apr, 28 the rescue heli couldn't pick up Tolo from 7600, next morning recsue heli could fly, but Tolo has gone already... Karlos and Juanito were rescued by heli from C4. And Horia too.

27 April, 2010 Annapurna. Serguey Bogomolov and Eugeny Vinogradsky summited at about 16-00 local time. Now they're descending to C3.

27 April, 2010 Annapurna. Carlos Pauner, Juanito Oiarzabal and Tolo Calafat summited. Martin Ramos and Jorge Egocheaga summited at 10 am. Next was Peter Hamor and next Piotr Pustelnik and Kinga Baranovska reached summit too. Piotr has thus become the third Polish climber to complete the 14x8000ers, after Jerzy Kukuczka and Krzysztof Wielicki.

27 April, 2010 Korean lady-climber Oh Eun Sun - the first woman bags all 14 8000-ers. She's the 20th in the common list. Today at 18-15 (Seoul time, about 3 pm local time) she reached the summit of Annapurna (8091 m), after 13 hrs going up from C4, and 11 hrs going up from C2 to C4 the day before. Congratulations to Miss Oh!

Oh Eun Sun - the first lady bagged all 14 8000-ers of out planet

27 April, 2010 Romanian Horia Kolibasanu summited Annapurna today! Congratulations!

26 April, 2010 Dhaulagiri. In the 50th anniversary of Dhaulas first ascent by a Swiss/Austrian expedition, Irans national expedition topped out Dhaulagiri early this morning. They set C3 yesterday at 7250m and were the first summiteers of the mountain this season. (www.mountainzone.ir)

24 April , 2010 Makalu, Ukraine expedition

23 April , 2010 Makalu: Invite to Odessa

21 April, 2010 Women's Overland Himalaya Expedition, 1958!!! Three women - Eve Sims ( leader),
Anne Davies and Antonia Deacock - drove from England through some countries to Delhi and futher to HImalaya peaks... Look at the great video!

19 April , 2010 Makalu, Ukraine expedition The team reached 6900 m.

17 April, 2010 Annapurna: Edurne Pasaban on the summit!!! She bags her 13th 8000-er. And Joao Garsia completed 14Q program and became first Portuguese who summited all 14 8000-ers. Congratulations!

14 April , 2010 Denis Urubko arrived to Almaty today morning, and 5 hours later left for Kathmandu. He'll join to Simone Moro in Everest BC.

14 April , 2010 Lhotse, Russian expedition. The team set C2 (6400 m).

14 April , 2010 Makalu, Ukraine expedition Guys set the camp at 6650 m.

 

11 April , 2010 Piolet D'Or 2010. Winners are Americans Jed Brown and Kyle Dempster along with Scotsman Bruce Normand, who completed the North face of the Xuelian West (Chinese Tien Shan) - best technical climb; and Denis Urubko and Boris Dedeshko for Cho Oyu SE Face climb - best high-altitude climb. Reihold Messner was awarded PIolet D'Or for the lifetime achievement.

Messner- Bonatti

Photo: Pascal Tourmaire

Urubko - Dedeshko

 

9 April , 2010 Makalu, Ukraine expedition The team set ABC and visited Americans

9 April , 2010 Lhotse, Russian expedition. The team in Lobuche.

8 April , 2010 1-st Everest Sherpa wall climbing competition.

7 April , 2010 Makalu, Ukraine expedition has reached BC

3 April, 2010 New Route on Matterhorn. Father-and-son Barmasse, Italians mountain guides climbed line "Couloir dellEnjambee"