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June - August 2010 news

26 August, 2010 Interview with Israfil Ashurly (President of Azerbaijan Alpinism Federation).

26 August, 2010 Artur Hajzer interview: I want to build the team for Himalaya Winter climbs.

24 August, 2010 VI International Elbrus Race: Girls will run for the first time in "Extreme" class!

23 August, 2010 Bhagirathi II (6512 m). Kazakhstan team has left for INdia today. Team members: Alexander Rudakov, Alexander Sofrygin, Ildar Gabbasov, Dmitry Honin, Mikhail Golovko.

16 August, 2010 Khan Tengri: Gleb Sokolov and Alexander Kirikov climbed the new route "Snake"

16 August, 2010 K2. Christian Stangle topped out Aug, 12 at 10-00 local time. He descended to BC. As for Kazakhstan team, that day Maxut Zhumayev decided to abort the expedition in spite of Vassily's point of view that the summit is available. Max decided not to risk in the "bottle neck", where a lot of climbers have the same feelings.

9 August, 2010 Korean climbers Jae-Soo Kim and Byung-Woo Son summited Gasherbrum I Aug, 5 at 13-15 local time. Info from Kyu Dam Lee.

9 August, 2010 Russians Oleg Koltunov and Vjacheslav Ivanov began to climb new route on K7 West (East Face)

9 August, 2010 Elbrus Race - the gate to the real altitude

7 August, 2010 Alexey Bolotov summited Gasherbrum II August, 5. Some days ago, July, 28 he summited Gasherbrum I with Don Bowie.

7 August, 2010 Sky-skier Fredrik Ericsson in fatal accident on K2. Fredrick and Gerlinde started early morning from C4. Fredrik fell in the beginning of "Bottle neck", possibly while placing an anchor. Looking for him in the whiteout, Gerlinde found only one of his skis, the bad visibility prevented more details. Gerlinde descended alone and met up with Darek Zaluski and Fabrizio Zangrilli at around 9 am, who had come up to help. Russian Yura Ermachek had descended off the shoulder toward camp III for a view of the ascent route. He spotted Fredrik's lifeless body and backpack about 400 meters above camp 3. Traversing to the body would be connected to extreme risk and Fredrik's dad decided 4 pm local time to leave his son there with his favorite view of the Chogolisa and Laila peaks. (

19 July, 2010 Broad peak traverse: Basques Alberto Inurrategi, Mikel Zabalza and Juan Vallejo reached the Central summit (8013m)via new route. It's the first Basques new 8000+ route. The trio was going to set the tent on the col between Central and Main tops and continue the traverse. ( Picture: Alberto Inurrategi on Broad peak traverse

19 July, 2010 Karakorum, Amin Brakk, Women expedition. Girls topped! Galina, Anna & Marina completed the route today!

14 July, 2010 Kazakhs Maxut Zhumayev and Vassily Pivtsov will leave Almaty July, 17 for Islamabad. Their goal is K2 again. It's the sixth attempt for Vaso and 5th for Max. Both have already climbed 13 8000ers

14 July, 2010 Karakorum, Amin Brakk, Women expedition. They are going up successfuly.

13 July, 2010 The very sad date....

Nick Shustrov: 20 years passed since impossible avalanche on peak Lenin killed 44 climbers from URSS, Israel, Czechoslovakia (now it is 2 different country), Switzerland and Spain... 23 of them were from my native city Leningrad. I remember nearly everybody of them by names, some of them were guys I used to climb together, some of them were Very Important People for Leningrad climbing society... we missed all of them...

i met them at achik-tash just 2 week before the avalanch. they always stay in my mind the same young, cheerful and full of life and energy...

Denis Urubko5 July, 2010 Kazakh Denis Urubko won the speed ascent on Noursultan peak (4376 m) near Almaty yesterday. Is there something what this animal doesn't win if plays? Of course, it's great training before September Elbrus Race competition, where Denis will take part again. Photo: (Denis is left)

5 July, 2010 Polish mountaineer Marcin Kaczkan summited Nanga Parbat July, 2 at 10 a.m. Congratulations! He's that Marcin, who was rescued from 7750 m on K2 in february 2003 by Denis Urubko. And after some years Mercin is in Karakorum again, and so successful!

30 June, 2010 Karakorum, Amin Brakk, Women expedition. Girls climbed 5 pitches and set the portaledge.

29 June, 2010 Tien Shan. Alexander Korobkov and Nickolay Smagin (both from Sverdlovsk region, Russia) will start tomorrow their expedition to Khan Tengri - they're going to climb the new route on South Face or on the center of the North Face

29 June, 2010 Karakorum. Don Bowie (Canada) and Alexey Bolotov (Russia) are going to climb some route(s) on Gasherbrums in Karakorum (GI, GII, GIII,GIV). Now they set their base camp and began the first acclimatizing push. Pics by Don Bowie (

Alex Bolotov

Don Bowie

25 June, 2010 Sivera supports VI International ELBRUS RACE.

23 June, 2010 Girls team are going to Amin Brakk. Two Ukrainians and one Russian girls reached BC yesterday. They aiming to Czech Express route on the West Face.

23 June, 2010 K2 - Broad peak Polish Expedition. Yuri Ermachek (Yekaterinburg, Russia) is a member of Polish expedition led by Boguslav Ogrodnik.

23 June, 2010 Nanga Parbat Polish Expedition. Artur Hajzer and Robert Szymczak summited Nanga Parbat yesterday at 1:30pm. They climbed 15 hours and then descended 10 hours to C4. (