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Fall 2012 news

 

9 October, 2012 Annapurna. Gleb Sokolov called on 19-10 Moscow time: the search is over... there're megatonns of ice, it's impossible to dig ... we checked the large part of the slope, and a lot of crevasses. now we descended to BC, and the rest 6 climbers are in C1, they'll descend soon. The expedition is over... On the photo - ILjas Tukhvatullin (the pic by Vladimir Kuptsov, from K2 winter expedition)

9 October, 2012 Annapurna. Yesterday Gleb called that the heli did the search flight, but discovered nobody... 8 climbers from Russian and Uzbek teams are working at the place, where the climbers h caave been ught by the avalanche. WE're waiting the next report...

8 October, 2012 Annapurna. The avalanche...ILjas Tukhvatullin group was climbing from C1 to C2 yesterday, when the huge avalanche headed down... It happened on 3 p.m. Iljas and Ivan Lobanov have been burried, only one climber was not caught. He tried to find his friends, but it was impossible... He ascended the rest 150 m to C2 - there was the safety place, the air wave only broke the tent... Then he descended to C1 and radioed to BC. Today Gleb Sokolov and his group are asceding from BC to the tragedy place to try to find somebody... It was not the serac crash, the whole icy slope fell down, perhaps as a result of earthquake...

5 October, 2012 Lhotse. The Polish team led by Artur Haizer reached C4 yet. They fixed the route till C4, and did the depo with gear and food there. Now the climbers are going to Dingboche village to rest before the summit bid. Andrzej Bargiel finally will attempt to speed climb Lhotse from BC to summit below 16 hours. Andrzej set the Elbrus Race record in 2010 (3 hrs 23 min) from Azau to the top.

5 October, 2012 Annapurna. Only two teams are on the North Face of Anna: Uzbek (led by Iljas Tukhvatullin) and Russian (led by Gleb Sokolov. Uzbeks are going normal route, while Russians hope to climb the new line near it (they will climb together till C3). Yesterday I received the news from Iljas: We're in BC now. It's heavy snowing. Gleb's group didn't reach C2, spend night at 5600 m. The rest climbers ascended to C1, lifted loads and returned back to BC. Today Gleb called on 6-40 p.m.: "We set C2, and descended to BC. After the some days of rest we'll climb further from C2"

12 September, 2012 VII International Elbrus Race. Results and photogallery from the summit and award ceremony. Boris Korshunov: 77th Elbrus climb in 77th birthday! Anton Proshenko set new Elbrus Race record on Classic route. Competition participants rescued Fillipine climber.

 

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