February, 2003 news 28 February, 2003 NETIA K2 POLISH WINTER EXPEDITION: The expedition is over - this decision was accepted by Wielicki yesterday evening. The letter from Denis Urubko - details of the rescue action. Yesterday Marcin descended to ABC (5100) and felt good. 27 February, 2003 NETIA K2 POLISH WINTER EXPEDITION: In morning Feb. 26 after the hard night (the tempetature in Camp3 was -40C at night) Marcin felt very bad, Denis began rescue. Krzysztof went up and met them on 7450. He brought hot drink and medicines. Other party began to ascend from Camp1 with the oxygen for Marcin. At 7 p.m. in the darkness all were in Camp1. Denis and Krzysztof descended to ABC. Marcin stayed in Camp1 with Natkanski and Zelinski - he felt better. Today the team continues the rescue. 26 February, 2003 NETIA K2 POLISH WINTER EXPEDITION: Camp4 was blown away (the tent and all equipment) Denis and Marcin spent night there in the small empty tent, which they brought. Krzysztof spent very difficult night in Camp3. The temperature was - 36C there. How much it was in Camp4 - who knows? 25 February, 2003 NETIA K2 POLISH WINTER EXPEDITION: Denis and Marcin reached Camp3 on Monday, Krzysztof - Camp2. (today information) 25 February, 2003 NETIA K2 POLISH WINTER EXPEDITION: Krzysztof reached Camp 1, Denis and Marcin - Camp2 (information from evening Feb. 23) 25 February, 2003 Winter Peak Pobeda Climb (7439m) - the team was obliged to refuse from the climb. Hard avalanche danger. A lot of snow in region. Now they are descending from the BC (4050 m) 23 February, 2003 Broad Peak Winter Expedition and K2 Winter expedition exchanged by greetings with the help of EverestNews.com 22 February, 2003 NETIA K2 POLISH WINTER EXPEDITION:The team begins summit bid today! Duo Denis- Marcin start today, they will install the rest of the fixed ropes on 7750- 7900. Krzysztof will start tomorrow, join duo and then they will do summit push together (information from Denis Urubko's letter) 21
February, 2003 JUBELEE EXPEDITION "EVEREST 2003"
In late March 2003 a unique team will start from St. Petersburg
to Mount Everest, the highest summit of the planet Earth. The ascension
is dedicated to two anniversaries of 2003: St. Petersburg tercentennial
and the 50th anniversary of the first ascension on the highest mountain
of 21 February, 2003 NETIA K2 POLISH WINTER EXPEDITION: Krzysztof wants to use all chances in the expedition. The small group - he, Marcin and Denis - is going to try the summit push, if the weather will permit. The other small group is preparing to the reconnaissance and preparing camps... "Krzysztof and Marcin hadn't acclimatized, but they would be able to summit with oxygen," - wrote Denis Urubko. 19 February, 2003 NETIA K2 POLISH WINTER EXPEDITION: The team has received the weather forecast from Pakistan: the strong storm - the strongest in the past 4 years - will continue till the end of February... It seems like a sentense. 19 February, 2003 Winter Peak Pobeda Climb (7439m) After the rest in BC the team's beginning the climb. Now they are on 4200. There is big avalanche danger on the route after the recent snowfalls. All members are OK. 19 February, 2003 Alpclub "Odessa" (Ukraine) organizes Hidden Peak Expedition in July-August 2003 as a part of "All 8-thousanders of the World" program. Hidden may become 13-th 8000-peak for Vladislav Terzyul. 18 February, 2003 NETIA K2 POLISH WINTER EXPEDITION: The wind today is 184km/h on 7800. Some members of the expedition won't go back to the BC on 5100. Only three persons can really try the summit push - Urubko, Kaczkan and Wielicki - if upper camps are not blown away. 17 February, 2003 NETIA K2 POLISH WINTER EXPEDITION: Very strong winds were predicted this days on the Mount. All members descended to the BC on 3900 for the rest 16 February, 2003 NETIA K2 POLISH WINTER EXPEDITION: Denis Urubko wrote from the BC: Our Camp 4 really stays on 7750 m (GPS). The route has been prepared. We can attempt the summit bid, but I haven't the partner now - Poitr has problems with his fingers. Other members - the same and they haven't the acclimatization enough. I won't climb solo. I wait 4-5 days, and then will go up, if will have some partners. 15 February, 2003 NETIA K2 POLISH WINTER EXPEDITION: Wielicki is on the route alone. He wants to reach Camp4 and to spend a night there for the acclimatization. Urubko and Moravski have descended to the BC. Other members who tried to climb and to bring equipment to upper camps, have returned back. Very strong wind. Very bad weather forecast. 15
February, 2003 JUBELEE EXPEDITION "EVEREST 2003"
(Saint Petersburg) -The training period is finished and the
Expedition Organizing Committee announced the participants of the
expedition. 14 February, 2003 NETIA K2 POLISH WINTER EXPEDITION: the letter from Denis Urubko. 14 February, 2003 Winter Peak Pobeda Climb (7439m) The team is on the ridge of Abalakov route (5500m) The weather is normal, t-42C Feb.14 Chervonenko, Krynin and Nasuh Mahruki are planning acclimatization climb to 6000 today. The temperature was -50C this hight in the BC on South Inylchek glacier. 13 February, 2003 Winter Peak Pobeda Climb (7439m) The team is on Abalakov route, on 5250 now. The weather is normal, t -37C. All members are OK 13 February, 2003 NETIA K2 POLISH WINTER EXPEDITION: Denis Urubko and Piotr Moravski Feb. 12 have set the Camp 4 on 7630 m 12 February, 2003 NETIA K2 POLISH WINTER EXPEDITION: Denis, Marcin and Piotr have installed 400m of fixed ropes above Camp3. 12 February, 2003 Winter Peak Pobeda Climb (7439m) The team is on about 4640m now. The weather is normal, t -23C, a lot of snow. All members are OK 10 February, 2003 Winter Peak Pobeda Climb (7439m) The team works at Zvjozdochka glacier. Now is at 4400m. t-25C. All's OK. History:
This is the second Winter climb of Pobeda Peak. The first was in
1990. It was included in the book "Great climbs" by Chris
Bonington. The strongest team of the USSR tried to climb.
There were four groups of climbers in that expedition. Only one
was successful (Valery Khrishaty, Serguey Ovcharenko, Gennady Mikhailov,
Serguey Bogomolov and Gennady Bogomolov). Other groups were failed,
in spite of there were such legends as Boukreev, Balyberdin, Suviga,
Studenin. The temperature during the climb was about 10 February, 2003 NETIA K2 POLISH WINTER EXPEDITION: Denis, Marcin and Piotr are in Camp 3 (they climbed there on Feb. 9. Camp 3 is on 7150m (GPS). t-35-40C The external tent have been torn. This morning they are going to install fixed ropes upper Camp 3 if the weather permit. They need help - somebody, who bring necessary equipment, repair the tent and change their group. But it seems - nobody can climb this morning. 9 February, 2003 Winter Peak Pobeda Climb (7439m) The team reached BC (4050) Feb. 7. THe temperature is -16C. Chervonenko and Samoilov began the reconnaissance of the Zvjozdochka glacier. 9 February, 2003 NETIA K2 POLISH WINTER EXPEDITION: Very strong wind (119km/h at 7900 and 144 km/h at the top - 8 Feb.). Trio Jerzy Natkanski - Maciej Pawlikowski - Dariusz Zaluski have brought equipment to Camp3 and began to descent to BC on Feb. 6. Denis Urubko, Marcin Kaczkan and Piotr Morawski climbed Feb. 7 - they have to set Camp 4 at 7900. 7 February, 2003 Winter Peak Pobeda Climb (7439m) The team came to 3600 Feb. 5. The weather is good, temperature -23C. All members are fine. Today they are planning to reach BC "Asia Tourism" at the South Inylchek glacier. There is already some stock of gaz, food, etc. The team will rest there 2-3 days after setting BC. Probably, the weather will be worse - there is snow in Almaty today. 7 February, 2003 Antarctida - Russia 2003: Nikolay Zakharov, Gleb Sokolov, Piotr Kuznetsov and Oleg Khvostenko summited peak Schwartze by the wall route (appr. 6b/Russian grade) Feb. 5 Congratulations! Other team climbed two virgin peaks and entitled them - Vladimir and Gasar. 7 February, 2003 NETIA K2 POLISH WINTER EXPEDITION: the message from Urubko: three climbers (Denis, Marcin and Piotr) start today to set the Camp 4. 5 February, 2003 NETIA K2 POLISH WINTER EXPEDITION: Wielicki and Berbeka have set the Camp3 (7200) 4 February, 2003 Antarctida - Russia 2003: Eugeny Vinogradsky, Valery Pershin, Yuri Baikovsky and Georgy Gatagov summited virgin peak in Antarctida on the 1st of February and entitled it in honour of Saint Gleb and Saint Boris. 4 February, 2003 NETIA K2 POLISH WINTER EXPEDITION: the letter from Denis Urubko - together with Marcin Kaczkan they have fixed ropes up to 7100, then he has fixed next 100 m of ropes solo - so they were at 7200 on the 1st of February. 3 February, 2003 Winter Peak Pobeda Climb (7439m) begins - members Nickolay Chervonenko (the leader), Dmitry Muravjov, Serguey Samoilov, Alexander Krynin and Turk Ali Nasuh Mahruki are on the South Inylchek Glacier (3020 m) now, temperature is -18C. The weather is good, all Ok. 3 February, 2003 NETIA K2 POLISH WINTER EXPEDITION: already on the 1st of February Denis Urubko together with Marcin Kaczkan and Piotr Moravski have fixed 450 m of the ropes above the Camp2 (6780m). Now Wielicki and Berbeka are working on the route. The weather forecast is better. 1 February , 2003 NETIA K2 POLISH WINTER EXPEDITION:Camp2 stays again on the North Pillar - as the fortress now. Climbers are preparing the route to the Camp3, which has to be set on 7300. |