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PERSONALITIES
Valery
Balezin
Born
14 June 1953 in Minusinsk
Master of Sports of International Level in mountaineering
Master of sports in International Level in rockclimbing
(The only one sportsman on the postUSSR territory, who has
this title of the Master of Sports of International Level
in both mountaineering and rockclimbing) |
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Began
rockclimbing in1970. Became Master of Sports in rockclimbing
in 1974 (third prize-winner in the USSR Championship in individual
climbing)
The title of Master of Sports of International Level he got in
1982 (Winner of the International Championship) This title was
established in 1982, and Balezin was the first who was awarded
it.
20-time Winner of the USSR Championships in the different kinds
of rockclimbing
Was the member of the combined team of USSR during 14 years
Has the first position in rating among the strongest climbers
of the country during 10 years.
5 time, one after the other, was the Winner of the largest International
Competitions, won 14 golden, 4 silver and 2 bronze medals. (The
Crimea, 1978, 1980, 1982, 1984 and 1986)
Besides of that, he was the Winner of International Cups in Bulgaria,
Czecho-Slovakia. Was multitime Winner of the large Regional and
All USSR Competitions, such as Abalakov Prize (Krasnoyarsk), Racek
Prize (Tashkent), the USSR Cup, All Russia Championship, Open
Championship of Kazakhstan, the Cup of Russia.
Began
mountaineering in 1972. Master of Sports - 1980, Master of Sports
of International level - 1984
7 time was the Winner of USSR Championship, later - All Russia Championship
and 5 times got second prize.
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1983 - Winner in rockclimbing class - the ascent to Kirpitch via
"Rhombus" (Manoilov) on the West Face, 6a (Caucasus,
Uzunkol)
- ascent to Dalar (North Face, Shopin) 6a (Caucasus, Uzunkol)
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1985 - Winner in rockclimbing class - the ascent to Zamin-Karror
Peak, North-West Face, 6a (Pamir Alay)
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1986 - Winner in high-altitude class - the first ascent to Moskovskoy
Pravdy Peak, North-East Face, 6a (South-West Pamir)
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1987 - Winner in tecknical class - the first ascent to Zamok Peak
via North Face of bastion, 6a ( Fanskye Mountains, Pamir Alay)
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1991 - The second prizer in winter class - the ascent to Svobodnoy
Korei Peak, triangle at the North Face, 5b(Bagaev), (Ala Archa,
Tien Shan)
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1992 - Winner in rockclimbing class - the ascent to Shurovskogo
Peak, North Face of bastion (Khergiany)5b (Caucasus)
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1994 - The second prizer in winter class - the first ascent to
Svobodnoi Korei Peak, North-West Face, 5b (Ala Archa, Tien Shan)
- 1995
- Winner in winter class - the ascent to Svobodnoi Korei Peak,
North Face, 6b(Semiletkin) (Ala Archa, Tien Shan)
- 1998
- The second prizer in winter class - the first ascent to Zvierzdny
Peak, North Face, 6a , (Ergaki)
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2000 - The second prizer in winter class - the first ascent to
Svobodnoi Korei Peak, left part of the North Face, 5b, (Ala Archa,
Tien Shan)
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2001 - Winner in winter class - the first ascent to Tsar's Throne,
South-East at West Face, 6a, (Kodar)
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2001 - The second prizer in rockclimbing class - the first ascent
to Zvierzdny Peak, North-West Ridge, 6a,
- the first ascent to Peak Zub Dracona (Dragon's Tooth), the center
of South-West Face, 6a, (Ergaki)
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2002 - The coach of the team, which became the Winner in winter
class - the first ascent to Troll Wall, Krasnoyarsk route (Norway)
11
April, 2002
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