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PERSONALITIES

 

 

YURI KOSHELENKO

First difficult ascent - Aksu N., by East ridge,1988, Lailiak.

15 technical and rocky ascents of 5 (rus) rated in the Caucasus and Turkestan gorge, five of them - winter.

9 rocky ascent of 5 (rus) rated in the Crimea. Foreman of sport since 1994.

Since 1997 - International foreman of sport.

According to rating, Koshelenko is the best climber of Russia of 1998 year

 

Routes 6A (rus) rated

  • 1990, Dombay Main, by S.wall, Korotkov's route;
  • 1993, Bashkara by C. West face of N. wall, Livshits' route;
  • 1994, 4810 by E.wall, Vedernikov's route, 6A Winter ascentions 6a (rus).
  • 1994, Mt.Chatyn by N.wall, Myshliaev's route;
  • 1995, Mt.Shkhelda C. by Center of left pillar of N.wall. First climbing;
  • 1997, Mt.Shkhelda 2nd Western by black spot SSW wall through roofs. First ascent;

Routes 6B (rus) rated of Limit difficult

  • 1993, Mt. Ushba S.- Ushba N. by a column of SW wall, Kustovski's route;
  • 1994, 4240/p.Slesova by C. of N. wall, Moroz' route, Karavshin;
  • 1995, 4810 by C. of E. wall, New variant Klenov's route, Karavshin;
  • 1996, Aksu N., by couloir of N.wall, Moshnikov's route, Leilak;
  • 1997, Troll Wall, Norway. New route - "Russian route". Russian routes on Big walls of the world;
  • 1998, February. Petit Dru, right part of West Face. First climb;
  • 1998, October. Bhagirathi III (6454 m), on the center of West Face. First climb. "Russian route". Russian routes on Big walls of the world.
  • 1999, summer. Great Trango Tower, (unclibed wall) North-West Face - first climb - "Russian route".
  • 2000, February. Kyukyurtly west face, beginning of new route (400 m.)
  • 2000, Summer. Attempt of Latok III, (unclimbed wall) west face. Project " Open Caucasus

2001, Yanuary, Shkhelda 2E, N face - new route 5b(rus).
2001, February, Yerydag, N corner- new route 6a (rus).
2001, October, Fisht, new climbing area of
Western Caucasus, first ascent on Northern Tower of massif Fisht.

High Altitude Ascents (7000 m)

  • 1989, p. Lenina - normal;
  • 1990, p. E.Korzhenevskoy - normal;
  • 1992, p. Pobeda main - normal;
  • 1992, p.Khan-Tengri - SW by SSW rib 6B rated, Sviridenko's route;
  • 1993, p.Khan-Tengri by N. wall, 6B rated, first ascent;
  • 1996, p.Khan-Tengri by NE pillar of peak Chapaev, 5B rated;
  • 2001, Lhotse Middle (8414m.), N ridge and N-E face, Open peak.

National Competitions Winner:
  • 1992, high altitude class; 1993, high altitude class;
  • 1994, winter class;
  • 1997, rocky class;
  • 1998, winter class and high altitude class;
  • 1999, technical class;
  • 2001, high altitude class;
    2rd finisher: 2001, winter class;
    3rd finisher:
    1995, winter class;
    1995, technical class.


Contact address: Yuri Koshelenko

 

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