Alexander
Ruchkin
Born
Nov. 26 1963 in Kazakhstan
Started
mountaineering and climbing life in 1985. Has more than
300 climbs, including Winter climbs. More than 100 among
them 5b - 6b (Russian Grade) in party or team.
3
climbs to 7-thousanders of the former USSR
Winter
solo ascents in Russia and abroad (Alps)
Died in the August, 2015, on South Face Huangoy Sur, climbing the new route with Vjacheslav Ivanov |
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The
list of ascents:
2013 Kusum Kanguru (6367 m) SW Face the route "Falling into the void" summited Oct, 19 with Vijacheslav Ivanov the climb was awarded by Piolet D'Or Russia
2011 Shark Tooth/Àêóëèé Çóá/ 1555m
Greenland, Renland, summited 05.05.2011 â 18.30. First climb, with Mikhail Mikhailov
2009 Minya Konka massif, Sichuan 15.05.09 with Mikhail Mikhailov the climb was awarded by Piolet D'Or Russia
2007 Kyzyl Asker East Face, first climb, Sep, 13
2004
Jannu North Face (7710 m) May, 26 summited with Dmitry Pavlenko. the climb was awarded by Piolet D'Or 2005 and was one of the greatest climbs in 2004 in the rating by NG.
2003
Khan Tengri (6995 m)
2002
- Great Sail Peak, Baffin Island (Canada)
2001
- Svobodnaja Koreja, 4710 m, new route(2 days), solo
2000
Latok III attempt, to 4900-5850 m
2000.
Winter. Corona. Center of North Face of first tower. New route,
5B/Russian Grade, one day - January 22. Team: A.Ruchkin, Grekov,
Puchinin. "The route of mobiles"
1999 - Tien Shan. Corona, 1st pillar, N.Face, solo, new route
- 6A, Peak Beichechekey - 5A
1999, Winter, - French Alps. Grand Capucin, East Face,
new route
1998 - French Alps. Grand Joras, N.Face, "No Siesta".
Speed climb - 1,5 days, Petit Dru N.Face, new route
1998 - Tien Shan. Svobodnaja Korea, N.Face
Winter
1997 - Tien Shan. Svobodnaja Koreja, N.Face - new route
1997 - first climb up to Troll Wall in Norway - "Russian
route".
1996, Winter - The Alps "solo" p.Grandes Gorasses
- north face TD+ "Linceul", p.Domino "Messner"
Pamiro-Alai
AkSu peak north face - 15 pitches ED+sup (descent off weather)
1996 Ak Su north face - (new route)
1995
Pamir-Alai and Tien Shan , AkSu north face Tchaplinsky route ,
AkSu north face (Moshnikov's route) - speed ascent - 5 day long
route - 1700 m.
Corona
ED+
2 routes ED-, ED
1994
Pamiro-Alai and Tien Shan AkSu north face first ascent - ED+sup
(new route)
peak
4810 north face ED+sup
Slesov
("4240 Russian tower") ED+sup
Asan
ED
3850
m (Lambda) French route ED
3 routes ED-, ED
1993
Pamir-Alai Peak "Yellow Wall" ED-
Asan
west face ED+sup
Slesov
(4240 m "Russian tower")ED+sup
AkSu
north face ED+sup second climb
1992 Winter, Peak Lenina (7134 m) ED-Peak Russia (6888
m) ED+
Peak
Semionov-Tien-Shansky ED+
1992
Peak Talgar ED and ED+ Svobodnaja Koreja north face ED+
2 routes ED-
Winter
1991 (February) Tien Shan
Peak Bejchechekey ED-
Svobodnaja Koreja north face (2 routes) ED+
Peak Corona north face ED
1991
- Pamiro Alai, Pamir, Tien-Shan
AkSu north face ED+sup
Admiralteets north-east face ED+sup
S.Iskander and peak 4600 - 3 routes ED
peak Lenina (7134 m)ED-
Svobodnaja Koreja north face ED+sup
Tien
ShanPeak Talgar ED
Peak Bajlian Bashi ED
Winter
1990 - 3 routes of ED-, ED in Tien Shan
1990
- Tien Shan
Svobodnaja Koreja north face ED+
Peak Semenov Tien-Shansky ED
Peak Corona - 2 routes ED, 2 routes - ED-
1989 - 4 routes of ED,ED+sup rated
Married,
has a son and a daughter.
March,
2003
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