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PERSONALITIES

 

Alexander Ruchkin

Born Nov. 26 1963 in Kazakhstan

Started mountaineering and climbing life in 1985. Has more than 300 climbs, including Winter climbs. More than 100 among them 5b - 6b (Russian Grade) in party or team.

3 climbs to 7-thousanders of the former USSR

Winter solo ascents in Russia and abroad (Alps)

Died in the August, 2015, on South Face Huangoy Sur, climbing the new route with Vjacheslav Ivanov


The list of ascents:

2013 Kusum Kanguru (6367 m) SW Face the route "Falling into the void" summited Oct, 19 with Vijacheslav Ivanov the climb was awarded by Piolet D'Or Russia

2011 Shark Tooth/јкулий «уб/ 1555m
Greenland, Renland, summited 05.05.2011 в 18.30. First climb, with Mikhail Mikhailov

2009 Minya Konka massif, Sichuan 15.05.09 with Mikhail Mikhailov the climb was awarded by Piolet D'Or Russia

2007 Kyzyl Asker East Face, first climb, Sep, 13

2004 Jannu North Face (7710 m) May, 26 summited with Dmitry Pavlenko. the climb was awarded by Piolet D'Or 2005 and was one of the greatest climbs in 2004 in the rating by NG.

2003 Khan Tengri (6995 m)

2002 - Great Sail Peak, Baffin Island (Canada)

2001 - Svobodnaja Koreja, 4710 m, new route(2 days), solo

2000 Latok III attempt, to 4900-5850 m

2000. Winter. Corona. Center of North Face of first tower. New route, 5B/Russian Grade, one day - January 22. Team: A.Ruchkin, Grekov, Puchinin. "The route of mobiles"

1999 - Tien Shan. Corona, 1st pillar, N.Face, solo, new route - 6A, Peak Beichechekey - 5A

1999, Winter, - French Alps. Grand Capucin, East Face, new route

1998 - French Alps. Grand Joras, N.Face, "No Siesta". Speed climb - 1,5 days, Petit Dru N.Face, new route

1998 - Tien Shan. Svobodnaja Korea, N.Face

Winter 1997 - Tien Shan. Svobodnaja Koreja, N.Face - new route

1997 - first climb up to Troll Wall in Norway - "Russian route".

1996, Winter - The Alps "solo" p.Grandes Gorasses - north face TD+ "Linceul", p.Domino "Messner"

Pamiro-Alai AkSu peak north face - 15 pitches ED+sup (descent off weather)

1996 Ak Su north face - (new route)

1995 Pamir-Alai and Tien Shan , AkSu north face Tchaplinsky route , AkSu north face (Moshnikov's route) - speed ascent - 5 day long route - 1700 m.

Corona ED+
2 routes ED-, ED

1994 Pamiro-Alai and Tien Shan AkSu north face first ascent - ED+sup (new route)

peak 4810 north face ED+sup

Slesov ("4240 Russian tower") ED+sup

Asan ED

3850 m (Lambda) French route ED
3 routes ED-, ED

1993 Pamir-Alai Peak "Yellow Wall" ED-

Asan west face ED+sup

Slesov (4240 m "Russian tower")ED+sup

AkSu north face ED+sup second climb

1992 Winter, Peak Lenina (7134 m) ED-Peak Russia (6888 m) ED+

Peak Semionov-Tien-Shansky ED+

1992 Peak Talgar ED and ED+ Svobodnaja Koreja north face ED+
2 routes ED-

Winter 1991 (February) Tien Shan
Peak Bejchechekey ED-
Svobodnaja Koreja north face (2 routes) ED+
Peak Corona north face ED

1991 - Pamiro Alai, Pamir, Tien-Shan
AkSu north face ED+sup
Admiralteets north-east face ED+sup
S.Iskander and peak 4600 - 3 routes ED
peak Lenina (7134 m)ED-
Svobodnaja Koreja north face ED+sup

Tien ShanPeak Talgar ED
Peak Bajlian Bashi ED

Winter 1990 - 3 routes of ED-, ED in Tien Shan

1990 - Tien Shan
Svobodnaja Koreja north face ED+
Peak Semenov Tien-Shansky ED
Peak Corona - 2 routes ED, 2 routes - ED-
1989 - 4 routes of ED,ED+sup rated


Married, has a son and a daughter.

March, 2003

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