PERSONALITIES

Nickolay Totmjanin Born Dec. 8, 1958 Mountain guide The first mountaineering experience - 1977 Master of Sports from 1987 Honoured Master of Sports from November, 2005

Snow Leopard - five times, in 1984, 97, 98, 99, 2002.

143 climbs: 5a/Russian Grade - 27 climbs, 5b - 19 climbs, 6 Grade - 14 climbs

First climbs (6 Grade):

• Ak Su North Face (1984)
• Sabah North Face (1986)
• Svobodnaja Korea North Face (1988)
• Lhotse South FAce (1990)

Winter climbs:

• Peak Shurovskogo (1984)
• Svobodnaja Korea North Face (1985)
• Peak Korzhenevskoi (1986)
• Krumkol North Ridge (1989)
• Eyger North Face (1997)
• Urrielju West Face (2001)

high-altitude climbs:

1982 -p. Lenin (7134)
1983 - p. Korgenevskaya (7105), p. Communism (7495)
1984 - p. Pobeda (7439)
1986 -p. Korgenevskaya (7105, first Winter climb)
1988 - p. Communism (7495)
1990 -p. Korgenevskaya(7105), p. Communism (7495), p. Communism (7495, 28 hours BC-BC), Lhotse (first climb by the South Face, till 8350)
1991 -p. Lenin (7134)
1993 - p. Korgenevskaya (till 7000), p.Khan Tengri (6995, three times)
1994 -p. Korgenevskaya(7105, two times), p. Communism (7495, two times)
1995 - p Khan Tengri (6995)
1996 -p. Korgenevskaya (7105, two times), p. Communism (7495)
1997 - p. Lenin (7134), p. Khan Tengri (6995, 14 hours 03 minutes BC - BC), p. Pobeda (7439)
1998 - p. Pobeda (7439)
1999 - p. Khan Tengri (6995, two times), p. Pobeda (7439)
2000 - p. Lenin (7134), p. Korgenevskaya (7105), p. Communism (7495)
2001 - p. Lenin (7134),p. Lenin (7134, 12 hours 46 minutes 4200 - 4200)
2002 -p. Khan Tengri (6995), p. Pobeda (7439)
2003 - Mt. Everest (8848 m) without oxygen

Main climbs:

• 1983 - Gaumysh North Face, Efimov route, 6a
• 1984 - Peak Shurovsky North Face, Khergiani route, 5b, Winter
• 1984 - Ak Su North Face, Moshnikov route, 6b
• 1984 - Peak Pobeda from Dikiy pass, 5b
• 1985 - Svobodnaja Korea, Popenko route, 6, Winter
• 1986 - Korzhenevskaya, Romanov route, Winter
• 1986 - Sabah, Moshnikov route, 6a
• 1990 - Lhotse, South Face, Bershov route
• 1997 - Eyger North FAce, Harlin route, 6a, Winter
• 2001 - Urrielju West Face, 6b, + Volodin, Kljonov, Moshnikov
• 2003 - Everest, normal route from Tibet, without oxygen
• 2004 - Jannu, North Face. Piolet D'Or 2004
• 2005 - Melungtse North Face, attempt