born on October, 11, 1946 in village Staroutkinsk of
Sverdlovsk area. Entered Sverdlovsk Medical Institute.
High experienced doctor. Married, has the daughter,
the son, 2 grandsons. Started in mountaneering since
member of trainer's counsil of Ural regional Mountaineering
and Rock-climbing Federation.
most titled climber of Ural region:
The 7-times Champion of the USSR in Mountaineering, "Snow
Leopard", the 4-times Champion of Russia. The Honoured
Master of sports of the USSR. five times summited Mt. Everest
(8848 m): in 1992, 1995, 1997, 1998, 2004. Was awarded with
an "Orden of Friendship between peoples" for traverse
four tops of Kangchenjunga (1989), a medal "In glory
of Ossetia" - for Everest climb (1995), medal "For
merits before Fatherland" - fot Lhotse Middle climb in
2001. He climbed Everest via the North Face this Spring.
first top - Sulahat (Caucasus).
- first winter climbs on Tien-Shan. Has received a rank of
the instructor of mountaneering.
- Peak Dream (Pamir-Alay). The first route of 5 grade of difficulty.
- traverse peak Kalinin - peak Communism. The first gold medal
of the USSR in mountaneering. Became the Master of sports.
- Peak Russia, the route is not repeated. 3 prizer in the
Championship of the USSR.
- Peak Zamin-Karor (Jagnob), the second gold medal of the
USSR on mountaneering.
- Peak 5100 (Gaumysh), the third gold medal of the USSR on
- Yarydag, the fourth gold medal of the USSR on mountaneering.
(and summited three 7000-ers of the USSR)
- Northern wall of peakEngels, the fifth gold medal of the
USSR on mountaneering
- peak Blok, the sixth gold medal of the USSR on mountaneering.
Became the Master of sports of the International class.
- Peak Svobodnaja Korea - the seventh gold medal of the USSR
(the internal championship).
- Peak Surajsha, 2 prizer in the Championship of the USSR.
The first winter climb in history of peak Communism (7495
- the Second Soviet Himalaya expedition. The leader of the
Russian group on traverse 4 tops of Kangchenjunga (8586 m.)
on April, 30. Has received a rank the Honoured Master of sports
of the USSR.
on October, 20 - an ascention in the Autumn on Cho-Ojju (8201
i) on East crest (a new route).
- on May, 14 summited Mt.Everest together with Fjodor Konjukhov.
- round-the-world expedition together with F.Konjukhov on
a yacht "Formosa - 56".
- Everest expedition. The ascention was not possible.
- in the Spring 1995 - Everest climb (Ossetic expedition).
the autumn 1995 - peak Baruntze (7220 m) via the Western wall,
a new route. It was recognized as the best climb of a season
in the Himalayas. The winner in the Championship of Russia,
a high-altitude class.
- spring - unsuccessful expedition on Annapurna (Bonington
route). Autumn 1996 for the first time in Russia is accomplished
a double: on September, 23 Cho-Ojju (8201 m) and on October,
10 Shisha-Pangma (8013m).
- in the spring Everest climb as a giude in the Indonesian
the autumn 1997 - Ama DAblam (6863 m), 2 prizer in the All-Russia
- in March, 1998 - Kilimandjuro, in May - Everest in honour
of the 275- anniversary of Yekaterinburg. - In autumn - Lhotse
Shar (8398 m),
- Mont Blanc (the maximum point of Europe).
on May, 21 - Lhotse Main (8511 m) as a member of the Russian-Georgian
expedition on Middle Lhotse.
(March - May) - expedition on Lhotsze Middle.
On May, 23, 2001 - the first climb!
nominee of "Piolet D'Or" for 2001. Awarded by "Golden
for the best Russian climb 2001.
(February) - expedition "Antarctica-Russia".
(September-October) - Angarsk expedition on Cho-Ojju (8201
m). On October, 5 with Oleg Naumov stood at this top for the
(on May, 31) - summited Mt. Everest via the new route - the
center of Northern wall! The member of Russian expedition.
total summited 10 (from all 26) 8000-ers in the World,
17 climbs above 8000 meters. (till May, 2004)
Leopard", 20 climbs of 7000-ers of the former USSR.
as the leader or the member in 16 Himalaya expeditions.
has absolute skill to communicate, wonderfull experience,
stability at high-altitude conditions, the high working
capacity, and he's a very good doctor.