Pobeda- 2003

MAK: Krasnoyarsk-Novosibirsk

15 August 2003. The combined team MAK: Krasnojarsk-Novosibirsk is already working at the route six day. Now they continue at mixed, rock-icy relief of the North Wall of Armenia Peak, where their new route to Pobeda lies . Climbers reached 6400 m. As they estimate, there will be 2-3 days before reaching Armenia- Pobeda Main ridge. The weather is stable fine. All are OK.

There were 3 climbs to Pobeda by normal route this season.

Mirab and Maria continue their descent from Pobeda with the help of other climbers, they are out of danger, but frostbites and exhaustion are perseptible.

Katherina Rerikh, August 14

The team has climbed the third of the new route to Pobeda: by the Armenia Wall and then traverse to the top. They climbed 5 pitches August 13. The weather's fine and all are OK.

But there are unpleasant events in the region of our climb: Georgian climber Mirab and his client Spanish girl Maria didn't find their tent when descended from the top of Pobeda (August 12, evening). They were forced to spent night without tent at the altitude about 7000 m. Lucky, they haven't got serious frostbites. But so long stay at such altitude, without water, caused deterioration. Maria couldn't move without help. August 13, morning, rescue was organized. Rescuers tried to throw down the tent, hot drink, oxygen, gas to place, where Mirab and Maria were, from helicopter, but Mirab could find only box with hot drink. Other helicopter delivered rescuers to Dykyi Pass (5000m) - they are planning to help Maria to descent.

At 6-00 (local time) we knew that climbers, who were on the route, reached MIrab and Maria, gave them the tent, gaz and medicines.

We hope, all would be OK. THis's the third Maria's attempt to Pobeda, and it's obvious, that to summit the top - not to mean the successful climb.

Katherina Rerikh, August 13