home

"The fourth girl" (Siguniang)

Siguniang route 2009

Siguniang means "The fourth girl" on Chineese.

Russians climbed new route on Siguniang, 6250 m, the highest point of Sichuan Province. Denis Sushko, Andrew Murashev, Valery Shamalo and Vladimir Molodozhen climbed a beautiful line

"Fourth girl" became famous in 2002, when Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden climbed the steep icy goulotte, North Couloir. They're awarded by Piolet d'Or 2003.
Russian's route lies to the right, through the wall, and meets with Fowler-Ramsden's route in upper part. Style: capsule
5-21 Oct, descent 2 days (returned to BC Oct, 23)

The team began the climb Oct, 5. Then the storm began, and guys waited the weather improving in the portaledge Oct, 7-8. Next day, Oct, 9 stey stated up 10 a.m., and Valery Shamalo was injured by the falling stone. The wall became very steep. Andrew was injured soon too, but both still continued to work on the route.

Oct 16-18 the team climbed very difficult hunging part of the wall.

Oct, 18 they reached the point when met Fawler's route.

Oct, 20 they hoped to reach the top, but Denis felt to 15 m, so the team desided to return to the portaledge, which was much lower (8 pitches, including hunging part). They were too tired....

Next day they divided to two-persons parties, began to ascend, and on 7 a.m. Vladimir Molodozhen and Valery Shamalo topped out. THey desended to the portaledge at midnight. Oct, 22 Andrew Muryshev and Sushko reached the summit on 3 p.m. and returned back to the portaledge in the night.

home