Sport Club of Kazakhstan Army
team of The Kazakhstan are conquering
the highest tops in the world
Septembert, 2005 The
team left BC. They retreated C1 and C2 (lucky, they had two pairs
of spare crampons in BC) SMS from Sept,. 1: "
Greetings! It's the third day of our way back to Skardu. Tomorrow
will be last day of our trekking."
August, 2005 In юбя guys have found out, that
someone has stolen all their equipment, including crampons. They
decide that Maxut and Vassily will remove camps. The climb won't
August, 2005 The team has rested and began the second
attempt of the summit bid. SMS from BC: "We start today to
ABC, then to higher camps . The weather's stable. Greetings!"
team's problem with Thuraya's battery - it's very hard charged
because the adapter on the solar battery has broken. Therefore they
had to buy the same from the Polish team, but here's the NOTE: Kazakhs's charged device
doesn't approach to this battery. So guys won't be able to charge
battery after it dies.
hope two batteries will be enough for the connection during the climb
and in BC after it.
Zhymayev from BC: "We started for the summit at
midnight, as planned. There were four of us - not three. There was
too much snow on the mountain though. All of us made turns to open
a trail. Finally, we turned back at about 7 p.m., at 8500m. The
next day (Tuesday) the weather was very bad, so we only managed
to get to Camp 3. Our phone's battery were dead, thus we couldn't
communicate with anybody. Now we're resting in BC. The Hungarian
expedition has left for home, and the Polish will depart the day
after tomorrow. We'll rest a few days and then we'll decide what
to do... We all feel fine."
August, 2005 The team returned to BC on 9-30 p.m. local
time. They reached the altitude about 8500 m, then descended to
CAmp 3. The batteries died in their phone, so climbers couldn't
August, 2005 the
team began to climb up from Camp 4. The sky is full of stars!
sms (11:24 p.m., local time): We're going up at midnight.
sms (5:20 p.m., local time): We're in Camp 4
August, 2005 sms
(6:17p.m., local time): We're resting in Camp 3. The weather's normal,
the wind stays below us.
(5-58 a.m. local time): The sun shines somewhere ahead... We're
going to Camp 3,
August, 2005 SMS
(9-33 a.m. local time): We're in Camp 2, set the tent, cooking the
dinner. It's warm, but the strong wind. Polish climbers are coming
here, tomorrow we'll climb to C3 together.
(2-32 a.m. local time): We're going to Camp 2. The weather's acceptable
August, 2005 Summit bid begins!
Climbers are now in Camp1 (reached 12-30 local time).
It's more cold today than during the last push The
summer is ending...
the team's recovering after the very hard acclimatization
push and preparing to the summit bid. They decided not to be full
oriented to the weather forecasts, but to act as planned. The weather
seems to be more stable now. There are few climbers in BC: American
guide with the Australian client, Hungary expedition, the rest of
Polish expedition. All climb the classic route.
August, 2005 SMS (10:40 local time):
The team descended to the Base Camp. All are fine.
August, 2005 SMS
(10:40 local time): the
team set Camp 3 at 7500 m, where the place for the tent is very
comfortable and safe.
the team is climbing up to Camp 3. "We're
sitting in the clouds...Wind. Snow. We're going to C3. Our way is
along the rocky ridge. The way to C2 (6350) was easy. The other
team reached C1 today and two Japan climbers came to C2.
August, 2005 the
team has reached Camp 2 (Maxut's message at 2 p.m. (Moscow time)
02:36 a.m. local time. Fine weather! The sun shined yesterday and
there's no winds. The night was warm. Avalanches felt down from
Broad peak slopes. We are at the ridge, so out of danger. Going
to climb to the Camp 2
August, 2005 SMS 2-27
p.m. local time. We reached Camp 1 (5850 m) Our tent is only one
there. The weather's acceptable.
a.m. local time: Two and a half hours took us to reach ABC. We went
through the dangerous icefall. Hope that in 5 hours work on the
snow slope - and we'll come to Camp 1.
August, 2005 According to statistics, there were K2 climbs
1982, Aug 14 and 15 - Japan climbers
Aug, 20 - Americans
Aug, 15 - French climbers
Aug, 13 - British and American climbers
Aug, 9 - ...
August , 2005 the
team after a lot of problems with getting permit (three members
were waitiing in Skardu during 12 days together with Gia Tortladze)
set K2 Base Camp and going to begin the work at the route tomorrow.
Maxut Zhumayev: Yesterday
Vassily Pivtsov, Serguey Brodsky and Damir Molgachev arrived to
Skardu. Their leader Maxut Zhumayev stays in Islamabad - he's waiting
July, 2005 Hi
from Islamabad! The team today is going to Skardu, where Gia Tortladze
will join them.
team's flying to Islamabad today.
July, 2005 The
Chief has ordered: "To K2!" and the expedition is
organizing in the one week - nobody prepared to this Mount in such
short period. But Kazakhstan Army is always ready, and the team
- Maxut Zhumayev (leader), Damir Molgachev, Serguey Brodsky and
Vassily Pivtsov with the coach Ervand Iljinsky will fly from
Almaty to Islamabad July,11. K2 classic route is their goal.