RUSSIAN ADVENTURE TEAM
April, 2003 Alexander Abramov reports from
Camp I (7000, North Col) :
28. 8:00 a.m. Radio conversation North Col (7000) - Camp II(7500). Abramov - Gudzhabidze.
Abramov: "Good morning. How's the team? What are your plans?"
"The weather at 7500 is crap. We can't even peep out of the tent."
"Next connection is at 9:00 a.m."
Meanwhile negotiations with altitude
sherpas are going in full swing. They are saying that all sherpas are heading
down, the forecast for the three nearest days is bad. It's snowing heavily, the
wind is raging.
9:00 a.m. Radio conversation North Col (7000) - Camp II(7500).
Abramov - Gudzhabidze.
Abramov: "The weather is bad. All sherpas are
going down. They refuse point black to go and set Camp III"
"Then we are going down too."
There is a snowstorm above the Col.
Several climbers made an attempt to get to 7500m. We have no further information
So, "Alpindustria Adventure Team" is among the first
expeditions to have set Camp II at 7500m. That is a good result.
and Litinskiy will spend this night on the Col. By 12:00 they were already in
Camp I. Everyone is OK"
April, 2003 Alexander Abramov reports:
25. I am lying in a cold tent writing my diary. The night was very cold, the gas
lamp didn-t warm two-person BASK tent at all. I was having nightmares about expedition
matters. I had some problems with Sherpas. It all started on April 19. Leaving
ABC for BC I told Sherpas to come down to BC with us. Only one of them obeyed.
The rest neglected leader-s (my) words. I came to ABC on April 24, and decided
to settle the situation, explain to them who is the leader and threaten to leave
them partially without bonuses.
point is that staying alone in ABC altitude Sherpas start working for other expeditions
(for money, of course). And when the time comes to work for their own expedition,
they fall ill. As a result of our conversation, Sherpas are addressing me now
?leader¦ or ?Mr. Alex¦. Tomorrow they are going to work on the North Col and higher.
won-t believe it, but Mikhail Litinsky has returned. He had some rest in Old Tingry
and felt better. So this morning Moskalev, Soifer and Litinski took off from BC.¦
Today 4 sportsmen: Kaimachnokov, Gugzhabidze, Tsarev, Pushkarev and three altitude
Sherpas took off for the North Col. They will spend a night there, and tomorrow
all seven will proceed further and pitch a tent at 7500 with all the necessary
supplies: four sleeping bags, food, gas, foam pads. The Sherpas will descend to
same day the other party of four: Abramov, Larin, Pashkov and Sergeev v will climb
to the North Col. The ultimate task of this push: to set Camp 7900m by April 30,
and spend a night there.
first party of four started today at 11 a.m. for the Col. The rest engaged themselves
in struggling with our expedition oxygen bottles. We put all 48 bottles on the
moraine and supplied each bottle with the sticks of our main sponsors v BASK and
KANT v and our media sponsors v ?Vertikalniy Mir¦ and ?Mountain.RU¦. Here on the
mountain all expeditions have the same oxygen bottles v orange, of Russian company
?Poisk¦. They can be easily stolen, and oxygen is not cheap at all.
the afternoon the weather abruptly changed to worse. Now it-s v15C in ABC with
heavy snowfall and piercing wind. The toilet tent was taken away by a gust with
all its contents.
guys are already drinking tea on the Col and asking over the radio about weather
forecast for tomorrow. We-ll try to find it out for them.
April, 2003 Alexander Abramov reports:
24. Today we made a heroic climb from BC to ABC. It is about 1300m of vertical
gain and 20km overall. As it was expected, our two tents in Middle Camp were searched
through, but as there they were empty, all the quick-draws had been stolen. Sergei
Kaimachnikov was the first to arrive at ABC, he was followed by Igor Tsarev. Abramov
was wise enough to go in the middle. The rest came soon after. A lot of short
steep slopes on the way to ABC can drive one crazy. You think that after that
hill you'll see a camp - but, oops, there is another stone-strewn field. In ABC
we met Vasya Elagin. He climbed to the North Col yesterday and tomorrow is going
down to BC.
The weather according to forecasts we receive from www.mounteverest.net
will stay bad till May 4. Very strong wind is tearing the tents. The empty tents
fly into the air. But we are grateful to www.mounteverest.net for the weather
We plan to climb to 7000m first, then to 7500m and, if we are lucky,
to pitch a camp at 7900m and spend a night there. But under such weather conditions
we don't stand big chances.
Bye to everybody."