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As a part of "7 Summits" project

Team thanks "Marmot" and "Alpine-Trade" companies for the discounts on climbing gear.

Members:

  • Alexander Abramov - leader (Moscow)
  • Vjacheslav Pashkov (Moscow)
  • Igor Tsarev (Irkutsk)
  • Serguey Larin (Tver)
  • Serguey Kaimachnikov (Moscow)
  • Dmitry Moskaljov (Moscow)
  • Yuri Soifer (Moscow)
  • Mikhail Litinsky (Moscow)
  • Alexander Sergueyev (Moscow)
  • Bidzina Gudzhabidze (Tbilisi, Georgia)
  • Vladimir Pushkarjov (Nojabrsk)
  • Vassily Elagin (Moscow)

Expedition chronicle:

29 May , 2003 Alexander Abramov reports:

"29 May. Today is 50 years from the first ascension to the summit of Everest. All the team gathered in the kitchen in the morning. Suddenly at 9.40 Sergey Larin reported very sprightly: "I am standing at the summit of Everest and setting the flag of our country". Our exertion was developed into general rejoicing. Our team celebrated the anniversary triumphal. The field day finished for us symbolically. Two months of hard and exhausting work have brought us victory. We are descending to the BC, where we are going to wait for Sergey Larin. After that all expedition is going to Katmandu. In Katmandu 30 best Russian climbers will meet us. This meeting will be wonderful. The team is full of enthusiasm and further plans of new summits.
It is the end of the message,
Bye"

"28 May. The team of Alpindustria is trying to storm the summit of Everest again. Sergey Larin is making desperate attempt of ascension. He is at 8300m now, Sergey reported about the attempt to reach the summit at night today. There are no climbers except him on the mountain. The wind is blowing dangerously. Sergey is an experienced climber and if the weather does not change he will not jeopardize his life. About 36 yaks have been gone to the ABC already. Elagin and Litinskiy descended to the ABC.
We wish Sergey Larin good luck!
It is the end of the message,
Bye"

28 May , 2003 Alexander Abramov reports:

"27 May. The banner of Alpindustria was set on the summit of Everest. Elagin and Gudjabidze ascended to the summit.

This success pertains to all the members of our expedition. Everest has proved us one more time how it is difficult and severe. Such bad weather has not been for many years. Gudjabidze descended to the ABC.
It is the end of the message,
Bye"

27 May , 2003 Alexander Abramov reports:

26 May. North, squally wind ruins all our hopes to subdue Everest. We are waiting for the news from the camp at 8300m. The tents are jumping in the ABC and we are afraid the tents can be blown away. At 12 o'clock was the connection with Sergeev. He reported the wind at 7700m was very cold and strong. It was impossible to climb up so he made the decision to descend. Sergey Larin was ascending from the North Col to the camp at 7500m. Sergeev met Larin and gave him portable radio transmitter because Larin had lost his. At 18.00 Larin was at 7700m and decided to spend the night there in the tent of Saint Petersburg expedition. The expedition of Saint Petersburg had left Everest already. At 22.00 the leader of Italian expedition visited Larin and informed he had seen the Russian climbers at 8300 and they were waiting for the good weather. We have been informed that Lakpa Gelu Sherpa held the new record yesterday. It had taken him only ten hours and forty minutes on the southward to get from the BC (5300m) to the summit.
It is the end of the message,
Bye"

26 May , 2003 Alexander Abramov reports:

25 May. 1 message. The weather has not become well, the wind is strong and none of expeditions are working there. Sherps are carrying all the things down. Tinkling of bells is heard all over there are a lot of yaks. The connection was at 10 o'clock in the morning. Gudjabidze, Elagin and Litinskiy ascended from 7500m to 7900m and they are ready to climb at 8300m tomorrow. I advised them to climb 8300m today and ascend the summit tomorrow. The Day of Independence of Georgia will be tomorrow and Bidzina dreamed to ascend the summit on this important day for him. The connection was at 12 o'clock. Sergeev and sherp ascended from 7000m to 7900m and they were valid to climb at 7900m but there were three persons already at 7900m. Sergeev is 67 years old and if he ascends the summit Sergeev will become the oldest person in the history of Everest. Sergey Larin gathered his rucksack and went to the North Col and wanted to ascend the summit alone.
Only our expedition "Alpindustria" is working on the mountain. Other expeditions refused to ascend the summit and went away.


2 message. Gudjabidze reported that they went to the camp at 8300m in the dark and they were trying to find the tent and oxygen cylinders. I explained them there to find all the necessary things. They are ascending to the summit at night today. God be with you! Abramov and Pushkarev are going to try the ascension to the summit tomorrow. We are planning, 26, May - 7500m, 27,May - 8300m, and if the weather is fine the ascension to the summit will be on the 28th of May. It is possible that will be problems with the messages. We ask you not to worry and hope for the best.

24 May. Our team (Abramov, Pushkarev, Tzarev and Kaimachnikov) worked rapidly and operated such unbelievable work content that many other climbers were surprised. 21 May. Our two sherps have become ill. The weather is rather bad. We have installed the camp at 7900m. We ascended from 7500m to 7900m with oxygen cylinders, found the area for our camp and installed the camp. It is 17.00; because of the shortage of water we have sore throat and the oxygen dry it. According to the forecast the weather today at night and tomorrow will be fine. We made the decision to go further and install the camp at 8300m. It needs usually one day. We have four hours and a half before the darkness. We started at 17.15 and began to use three liters oxygen in a minute. It was too difficult to go and our team ascended the camp at 8300m in the dark. This mountainside has the rake of 25degree. All suitable area for the tents was occupied. We were gasping for a drink, but there was no shelter to boil the water and find protection from the shrill wind. We had to rake the frozen stones with the help of our hands. Suddenly the oxygen cylinder passed us very closely. At about 100 climbers gathered there.
We tried to make the stone platform for the tents at about one hour and a half. It was - 30C of frost. It was 1 o'clock at night when we fell into the tent. The sleeping begs were not taken we hoped to spend night burning gas-jets and melting water. But all the members fell asleep in the tent. We got up at 3 o'clock, melted the water about 200gr per man and were ready at 5 o'clock in the morning to ascend the summit.
The lights of climbers were seen throughout the rout. The dawn caught us at the height of 8500m. Our team climbed the crest at 8600m. The rout was traced with ropes and ready to ascension. The first barrier was the wall and 20 climbers on it we had to wait for our turn at about one hour. Suddenly the weather changed, snow began to fall down and the strong wind became stronger. We came up to the second step at 8700m there were 30 climbers ascending very slowly. The summit was not seen because of the snow. I remembered the ascension in 1996 only 11 persons were able to stay there because of the weather worsening. I am responsible for the people it was a pity but I had to turn my team back. We started to climb down and some other expeditions ascended down with us. The probability of death and ascension were equal this day. All the members of our team got huge experience this day in spite of slight chilblain. We reached the height of 8700m. 24 May. Moskalev, Soipher, Litinskiy, Elagin and Gudjabize are expecting the good weather. Larin and Pashkov are in the ABC.
It is the end of the message,
Bye"

21 May , 2003 Alexander Abramov reports:

20 May. According to the weather forecast the strong wind blows from the morning. The crowd of people is ascending slowly for five, six steps in a minute it is too difficult to breath in. The passage to 7500m is complicated and long enough. It is cold and strong wind is blowing. We have met our sherps, they could not install the camp at 8300m again. So we have to ask the other expeditions for the tents at 8300m. Sherps from the other expeditions have been carrying oxygen cylinders and tracing ropes all week. The workmanship of our sherps is poor. Three persons from Japan, three sherps and one Englishman have ascended to the summit today. Abramov, Pushkarev, Tzraev and Kaimachnikov are at 7500m now. Moskalev, Soipher, Elagin and Gudjabidze have gone from the ABC to the North Col. They are following us.
It is the end of the message,
Bye

20 May , 2003 Alexander Abramov reports:

"19, May. Abramov, Pushkarev, Tzarev and Kaimachnikov went from the ABC at about 12 o'clock. It took them three hours and a half to get to the North Col. The weather is perfect, the wind is not strong but with gusts. At about 100 people have ascended to the North Col. We are planning the ascension to the summit on the 22nd of May. We feel good and have keen appetite. The great passage is planned tomorrow.

"18 May. There was strong wind yesterday. The sherps refuse flatly to ascend. We have decided to ascend on the 22nd of May. We are planning, 20, May - 7500m, 21, May - 8300m and 22, May - the summit. The sherps are installing 8300m. The whole expedition was gathered together in the evening. There was the meeting in the ABC and we made the decision that Abramov, Tzarev, Pushkarev and Kaimachnikov would ascend the first. Moskalev, Soipher and Latinskiy would follow, 20, May - the North Col, 21, May - 7500m, 22, May - 7900m, 23, May - 8300m, 24, May - the summit. Larin, Pashkov, Elagin, Sergeev would ascend, 22, May - the North Col, 23, May - 7500m, 24, May - 7900m, 25, May - 8300m, 26, May - the summit.
The period of expectation will be finished tomorrow.

"17, May. Some members from the expedition of Baltic States came to our camp in the morning. We have been playing cards all day and waiting for the better weather. Igor Tzarev wanted to dry his sleeping bag and it was flown away towards the neighbor camp. Most of the expeditions are planning the ascension on the 22nd of May. Yura Soipher and Dima Moskalev came to the ABC in the evening. It is snowing hardly in the ABC. We were invited to celebrate the birthday in the expedition from Saint Petersburg. There were a lot of friendly speeches and the self-made cake. It was an agreement that we would communicate with them during ascension using portable radio transmitter. The wind has dropped and the snow has begun. Our prospects of climbing are perfect.

"16 May. Have you ever seen the film "Groundhog Day"? I get up and notice that every day is the same. We have been at the height of 6500m for nine days already. We are looking forward to the good weather. The height is very injurious for health, energy and brain especially. The expeditions postpone the time of ascension. The problem is that above 8300m there are no railing ropes. Sherps are not able to ascend because of the wind. We have known about the deaths of the climbers in CHO-OIU. Misha Latinskiy went to the ABC at 6 o'clock; the full moon helped him to find the way. We are planning to go out tomorrow or the day after tomorrow.
It is the end of the message,
Bye"

 

News archives

17 May , 2003

15 May , 2003

14 May , 2003

13 May , 2003

12 May , 2003

8 May , 2003

7 May , 2003

6 May , 2003

2 May , 2003

30 April, 2003

29 April, 2003

26 April, 2003

25 April, 2003

24 April, 2003

23 April, 2003

22 April, 2003

21 April, 2003

20 April, 2003

19 April, 2003

18 April, 2003

17 April, 2003

16 April, 2003

14 April, 2003

13 April, 2003

12 April, 2003

10 April, 2003

9 April, 2003

7 April, 2003

6 April, 2003

5 April, 2003

3 April, 2003

2 April, 2003