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Normal route, Tibet

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Expedition chronicle:


7 May , 2003 Alexander Abramov reports:

"2,May. Take counsel with your pillow; sleep on it! We were able to discuss and solve all the problems with sherps in the morning. We promised them to add some tips and they signed the agreement. They will go working to ABC tomorrow. There are many talks about new illness. The border China and Nepal has been closed. We do not know exactly how to return home. According to the weather forecast a storm is expected at a height of 7000 and 8000m. We decided to have a rest in a village for three days at a height of 4000m, so we are going to move there tomorrow. I suppose we need to wash, sleep in warm place and eat fresh meat. During the whole month we are eating dried meat of yaks, not washing, not shaving and leading natural way of living.

6 May , 2003 Alexander Abramov reports:

"1,May. The situation is difficult. The sherps went down. Our activity is stopped. I communicated with the cook Passanga. He said that the problem was evident sherps wanted to raise their bonuses. I knew from another expeditions that our bonuses were quite normal and some expeditions paid less than we did. I decided not to climb 7900m for acclimatization. We moved down to the BC where our sherps were. Pashkov, Larin, Kaimanchikov, Gudjabidze helped to organize the negotiations with the sherps. At first the sherps were offended and asserted that they were not the yaks and the matter of their strike were not bonuses, after that they blamed the leader. There were the moments when we wanted to dismiss all of them but we had to continue the expedition. Some days were lost because of their strike.

2 May , 2003 Alexander Abramov reports from ABC:

"30,April. I like Sherpas and Nepal very much. But very likely I will become racist soon. We were planning the third ascent to the North Col. I gave sherps oxygen cylinders, 18kg (five oxygen cylinders) per man. It was an agreement that they should carry the load of 20kg to the North Col but suddenly sherps began to shake their heads. They did not want to carry 18kg per man only 11kg(three oxygen cylinders). It exasperated not only me but also another members of our expeditions. It was the matter of principle either the sherps would work or go back to Katmandu.
Probably I indulged them paying bonuses every week. Usually bonuses are paid at the end of the expedition.
I would like to report the names of "bad" sherps: Dzankby, Torgeeken and Tshuldim. If you do not want to have problems during your expedition never take these sherps. During the whole month sherps worked only five days at 7000m and asserted that the given work was beyond their strength. As a result they left the expedition and went back to Katmandu.
We connected with the firm Asian Trekking and they promised to provide us with following information next day: either to return money at about 3000$ per sherp or send another. As to the defaulters the firm promised to leave them without salary.
And now without sherps we decided to install the camp 7900m by own strength.

30 April, 2003 Alexander Abramov reports from ABC:

April 29. It has been snowing all night through - justifying weather forecasts. This morning at 10 a.m. we were informed over the radio that Sergey Larin and Slava Pashkov had left for Camp 7500 to spend a night there. Three more members of our expedition - Moskalev, Soifer, Litinsky - are going for an acclimatization hike to 7500 today as well.
It started snowing even more heavily. We are sitting in the dining-tent playing preference for oxygen bottles. Our kitchen boy came with hot water. We've been playing for 6 hours and it is still snowing.
Last time we haven't fulfilled our plan: we haven't set Camp 7900m. Now we have a new plan: tomorrow Abramov, Gudzhabidze, and Pushkarev are going together with Sherpas to install Camp 7900m. It will take about three days. The snow is still falling, I am afraid that the pitches between 7000m and 7500m can be avalanche-prone.
Today Vasya Elagin arrived in ABC. He said that the group of Yuriy Koshelenko arrived in BC.
The snow is still falling. It looks like Christmas Eve. I nearly failed to find my tent in the dark. So tomorrow we'll make an attempt.