Juri Koshelenko and Iljas Tukhvatullin: Gaurishankar or Menlungtse North Face

Juri Koshelenko and Iljas Tuhvatullin plan to make an attempt of climb in the Alpine style one of Northern walls Gaurishankar and Menlungtse in Tibet. Rough dates of expedition - from the beginning of April to the end of May 2005.

Today, when, apparently all is known already about everything, there are some mountains in the world densely covered by a secret. There are few remote tops: Gaurishankar (7134i), Menlungtse (7181i) are in one list with Nuptse, Jannu, Chomolontso, Masherbrum, Ogre. The climbs of any of these mountains always become important event in the world of mountaneering; climber's successes on these mountains are extremely rare, they are very difficult and significant.

The area of Gaurishankar and Menlungtse in Nepal is Rolualing, and in Tibet - Rongshar (comparing to the next area Solo - Khumbu, it is strongly closed territory without appreciable traces of presence of modern influences of a civilization).

" Northern, Tibetan walls of both tops, according to the famous British mountaneer Chris Bonington, are now delicate problems of the Himalayas. It means, that walls are not conquered, and an attempt to climb them is the complex problem combining set of unknown factors. Especially serious can be the climb in the pure Alpine style, as modern standard of quality in mountaneering ", - explained the ideological leader of the project Jury Koshelenko.

Gjaurishankar, before topographical seach of Everest, was considered as the mount number one in the world. Long time the authority of Nepal did not permit climbs on this mountain, sacred for Buddhists and induists. Only in 1979 American John Roskelli and Nepalese Dordzhe Sherpa for the first time have climbed Gaurishankar Southwest Face.

The first ascent on Menlungtse Main - 1992 by Slovenians Andrej Stremfelj and Marco Prezlj. South-East Face. An attempt of the North Face by - Karlos Buhler in 1999: reached 5800.

The goal of the project: the expedition to Gaurishankar and Menlungtse area (from Tibet, gorge Rongshar and Menlung), research of area and Northern walls of both tops, and climb attempt of one of them in Alpine style by the small group. The length of both walls of the highest grade of difficulty is 2500 - 3000 m.

Iljas Tukhvatullin: the Intrigue that we'll climb together, the North Face which nobody saw. It's wild area, open to Nepal - only Yeti wander there; urgently we search for a phrase book for the speaking with them :-)

Juri Koshelenko: the idea of this project for the first time has visited me in June last year. In one of the book-stores in Kathmandu I have seen a card with a picture of Gaurishankar South Face (contrary to Elizabeth Hawley's statistics, it has been climbed in 1984 by the Slovenian team in obsidional Himalaya style). * North Face of mountain was not seen by anybody. There are very few unclimbed walls in the world, and someone should climb it.

General sponsor of the project: Industrial Union " Novoje Sodruzhestvo"
Gear sponsor: BASK.
Expedition requires the support of other sponsors.



*Eberhard Jurgalski (www.ardventurestats.com): I think, Yuri Koshelenko made a mistake concerning the Himalayan chronicles of Miss Hawley. The then-Yugoslavian team, led by Slavko Cankar, climbed a part of the South Face of Gaurishankar, then joined the first ascent route of the South-Peak on SW ridge and finished at the South Peak (6983 m), but were not traversing to the Main-Peak. This is known and not contrary to Miss Hawley and the few other Himalayan chroniclers since a long time. Moreover it was in 1983, not 1984!