library about Russian climbs:
by Vassily Litvinov, July 2003
varies in our life, everything grows from one form to another
and passes to a new step, by a spiral, we think. Yes, the
next coil will be at higher qualitative level. That's I'm
thinking about going somewhere to night. Eugeny and Svetlana
are going ahead, and lights from their headlamps jumps on
snowdrifts. The icy wind persistently blows to my face,
frosting my soul. The arrogant young sportsman and not less
arrogant girl, aspiring to prove in a life, – here they
are going ahead, and I 'm following them. " Why and
where are you going!? – something shouts inside me. – you
are the idiot! "
I have already done it. I have set up the record, won the competition.
And not once. What still I need now? Hm … Now I'm climbing Amangeldy,
want to spend the night near it's top for the acclimatization before
the race. And it seems I haven't become more clever for last five
Peak Amangeldy (3999 m) speed ascents were arranged during many
years. Legendary climbers competed here, like Boukreev, Hrishchaty,
Moiseyev. The route (about 7 kilometers) passes from a hydropost
«Gate Tujuk-Su» up to a rocky bastion of peak Amangeldy. Beginning
in a forest zone at height of 2450 meters above sea level, it finishes
at the mark about 3950 meters, and altitude difference reaches thus
one and a half kilometers. The route is very steep.
years ago sportsmen ran here in heavy double leather boots, later
in plastic boots, and in gym shoes, and in valenoks. They ran here
both in the winter, and in the summer. Many records were put here,
but all of them either have sunk into oblivion, or occupy shelfs
in the overlooked shabby archives, and it's difficult enough to
find the information about it. But new competitions, which five
years draw attention of Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan climbers,
are open to any look. Everyone can check up his abilities in fair
struggle on a limit of human opportunities.
The idea of
this official action has arisen on the basis of Anatoly Boukreev's
tremendous results. This climber always aspired to surpass itself,
and his death in Himalaya on slopes of Annapurna in the end December,
1997 deprived the World of the man, who was devoted to the Mountain
very much. Rinat Khaibullin became the initiator and organizer the
competitions in memory of his countryman. The first Amangeldy Speed
ascent was in 1999. Than the Competition became the part of usual
sport calendar in Kazakhstan.
2003 the Fifth Amangely Speed ascent devoted to memory of Anatoly
Boukreev was carried out. It was organized by the Central Sports
Club of Army of Kazakhstan (CSKA), headed by general-major Pavel
Novikov and the Rescue Service of Almaty (051) headed by Rinat Khaibullin.
Rescue Service provided safety and control the route along the ascent.
Their guys were also on duty at finish, near cold rocks of a summit
bastion, fixing the time of participants.
morning some people known in the climbing world have arrived to
start – P.Popov, J.Gorbunov, A.Gubaev. They are veterans. But the
youth also takes part in Amangeldy speed ascent with pleasure. It's
an opportunity to demonstate the sports ambitions, both chance to
become successful, and simply well organized action where you can
communicate to other sportsmen. This time 10 persons from Kyrgyzstan
has arrived, headed by A.Gubaev. There were some strong victory
pretendents among them. There were also guys from Russia. Many Kazakhstan
climbers from different sports clubs (CSKA, Rescue Service (051),
"Burevestnik", "Khan Tengri") and many other
fans of the mountains took part.
44 persons were
on the start, and it's evident that everyone wanted to surpass all
others. The wind blew, snow caps of snowdrifts were poured by blue
under the trees. The winter sun only has tought by gold the snow
tops on boards of gorge, but there was already populous at the end
of road among gloomy fur-trees, and that nervous cheerful pressure
reigned, which always presents before the heavy test. Many people
have come simply to support their friends and relatives.
according the tradition, has been given at 10.00 o'clock from the
Memorial of climbers, who dead in Mountain. When I saw an obviously
aggressive physiognomies around of me, I was displaced to the right.
Volodja Kovalchuk, who was 65 years old veteran, maraphone runner,
stayed there as samuraj, waiting the start command. I occupied the
place between him and the young robust fellow, and have prepared
for starting jerk. Already having jerked through start line, I have
heard a female voice "Andrjusha, good luck!" Oh, such
passions! I felt some psychological condition of internal struggle
in the morning. A lot of adrenaline has burned down in my blood,
so much, that it almost did not remain for the jerk in mountains.
Probably, many of participants have gone through the similar fiilings.
So, consequently, meters of a route so ruthlessly past flew away,
counting whether my future victory, whether defeat.
The route was
twisted by streamers. All competitors run on a track which is cutting
off the first zigzag, but I have noted their impulse by the edge
of an eye. I have preferred a long way, remembering that a route
is long, and the three-five seconds does not pay back for the sharp
just after the start.
Then it was
possible to me to hold slightly the common adjust for super-power
work: I "have hung on a tail" at Andrew Puchinin. Perhaps,
he was that "Andrjusha", to whom vomen's voice shouted
on start? And only under rock bastions of Tujuk-Su Gate I jerky
have come off from everybody, and have jumped out on operative open
way ran on the road up to meteorological station Mynzhilki (3017
m) and then the track abruptly soared up to Alpengrad (3450 m).
The most difficult psychological moment here was. Because sportsmen
who run after me, can "touch" me when I began to run up
a steep slope, and reduced rate. It was necessary having to convince
myself squeezzing teeth, that it's only fleeting illusion. And really,
hazardously pressing contenders, having wagged on a slope, vanished
from the field of vision, and worked for a long time outside the
distance which I consider "at my tail ".
Rychkov, Denis Grinevich , Andrew Puchinin and the Bishkek team
competed for the superiority. Worked, breathing in a back of each
other. And only me, who was above the world, was lonely. But that
was only illision too, of course. If I slightly reduced the rate,
I would bypass without any "please" and "thanks"
by contenders, who would run like rockets to the depth of the close
Near the finish
the track appeared bad. Sliding on on a slope steps, I forced down
my breath, and found a consolation only in the understanding other
sportsmen will have such difficults too. They already for a long
time were not visible on stony slopes below. The sun warmed so,
that I have risked to throw off warm jacket. I have left it on stones
little bit above a rock tooth, and chilly shrinking, run in shaded
qouloir before the top. It was good, that wind didn't blow.
Failing in a
knee-deep snow, I am torn last meters upwards the top. Sometimes
traces deduce to firn, and I slide on a rigid surface. I fall on
knees, I am beaten by elbows or fingers on firn, I see blood on
my hands. Breath already bubbles in bronchial tubes, I hear it in
this closed space. Every such speed ascent is as a section of the
nerves on sweat and a pain. Each step is equal to eternity, and
all distance is shorter than an instant. Like the dream seems sometimes
the month, but in fact lasts few minutes. It seems like the Einstein's
space-time. And the person exists separately from other universe.
Than was the
descent towards to the sun. It heated almost as in spring below,
on slopes of peak Amangeldy . Our company run to a valley, like
crazy boys, meeting many familiar persons on a way. Everybody congratulated
me with the victory, wished happy New Year and good luck. I know
everybody there, and it would be desirable to talk with them, share
with everyone my happiness of success and the work, which has been
And later rewarding
of the participants of the speed ascent has taken place. Certainly,
I, as well as the majority of sportsmen, didn't interesting, what
will award, because the most important was to become a winner. Ambition
- here the main engine of such actions. You can't work so hard only
for money, because it is Sports. On behalf of Rescue Service and
CSKA we were congratulated by Ahmet Turatauov, the Chief of Rescue
team, and by the coach Sergey
Samoilov. And certainly, it was very pleasant, that director of
sports shop "LIMPOPO" A.Krasnoborodkin has presented coupons
for the equipment for the significant sum, which together with diplomas
were awarded to winners of the race.
In a result the top part of the table of results looks so:
1 place Denis Urubko – 1 hour of 15 minutes of 44 seconds
2 place Artem Rychkov – 1 hour 21 minute of 35 seconds
3 place Denis Grinevich – 1 hour 21 minute of 38 seconds
As you can see,
first three placeswere borrowed by climbers of CSKA of Kazakhstan.
14 place (1 hour of 37 minutes 37 seconds) was borrowed by Kovalchuk
Vladimir Vasilevich, the veteran of the similar actions, who have
removed back many young arrogant sportsmen, and he has been especially
marked on rewarding.
1 place Svetlana Sharipova (CSKA of Kazakhstan) - 1 hour 58 minutes
28 seconds. On last site of a way the intrigue of female competition
has reached apogee when Svetlana and Natalia Aristova from Kyrgyzstan,
who has taken the second place, bypassed each other by turns.
will to a victory" was awarded to Sharipova and Urubko – one
for two, as is usual to sportsmen from one club. I want to note,
that, unfortunately, climbers of the CSKA Combined team did not
take part in the race. It is a pity, because they could borrow the
first places in this competition, and show young climbers the level
of physical shape, to which it is necessary to aspire.
The idea what
moved me at this competition, was issued later. The most simple
comes to mind in the latest turn. I do not warrant for all others,
but about myself, as the ensign of CSKA of Kazakhstan, I can tell
so. Probably, it was the struggle with myself and the my doubts.
It was necessary to prove to myself, that all is OK, how it would
be desirable to think. That despite of all my traumas I am strong
enough to ascend on high tops. I'm strong enough to maintain similar
competitions on a limit of abilities. It was like returning on five
years ago when I yet did not summit Everest, when rescue on Lhotze
and K2 were ahead yet, like as Gasherbrum 2 speed ascent. In general,
it was an aspiration to let me know to myself, that the most important
events only begin. And it's much to do ahead... Beautiful and sports
want to wish Happy New Year to all climbers and fans of mountains!
Be healthy and successful, my friends, be happy. Well … and welcome
to our competitions.
Sports Club of Army of Kazakhstan (CSKA), SALICE, La’sportiva, BASK,