(8463 м) (Paragot
West Buttress ("Paragot ridge"- after the leader of the
successful French expedition in 1971, Robert Paragot).
The first ascenders were Bernard Mellet and Yannick
Seigneur in 1971. The first time without supplementary
oxygen was with John Roskelley (US) in 1980. The last time it was
climbed was by Loretan and Troillet (both Swiss) Manu Badiola and
Carles Valles (both Spain) in 1991. All of these last ascents were
without supplementary oxygen.
May, 2004 Today
at 1 a.m. Damir Molgachev and Artjom Rychkov began the summit bid
but because of strong wind and
worsening weather have been compelled to turn back. Now
they're already in Camp 3 and and tomorrow will be in base. The
temperature continues to fall.
May, 2004 The
party Molgachev-Rychkov is in Camp 4 and they will attempt their
summit bid tomorrow. The weather's fine. Serguey Brodsky and Alex
Rudakov are setting off CAmp 2 and going down to BC.
Terzyul is missing after he summited Makalu together with Jay Sieger.
мая, 2004 Погода
плохая, снег идет в базовом лагере.
May, 2004 The party Vassily Pivtsov-Maksut
Zhumayev summited Makalu via Paragot ridge May, 20 at 9-50 local
time in pure visibility contitions. Congratulations!
descending they have found the body of American climber Jay Sieger
- he died at 8300 m.
the second group Molgachev- Brodsky- Rychkov and Rudakov left base
camp and began their summit bid. The first party descended to Camp
2 and will be at Base Camp soon.
days ago three-men team - Molgachev, Brodsky, Rychkov set Camp 4
at 7700-7800 m. The wall (key part of the route at Paragot ridge)
has been already climbed, the team reached the "roof"
and attempted the summit, but was failed because of strong winds
and hard work in previuos day (including a pendulum at height of
7600 m), could not summited, and now they go down for rest in base
camp. They'll undertake an summit attempt after the rest. Pivtsov
and Zhumayev are going up to camp 4. Vladislav
Terzyul (Ukraine)and Jay Sieger (US)
go up now by the ready fixed ropes.
May, 2004 E.T.
Iljinsky from the BC: In two last days Vassily Pivtsov, Maxut Zhumayev
and Alexander Rudakov have fixed 300 m of the very difficult route
and reached 7700 m. It's only 30 m to the place where the team is
planning to set Camp 4, but the day has ended and the darkness began.
Guys are descending now, and other group - Molgachev, Brodsky and
Rychkov - are going apwards to fix theese 30 m and to set Camp 4
May, 2004 E.T. Iljinsky from the BC: the team is working
now between 7500-7800 m, at the key part of the Paragot ridge. All
are OK. (May, 10)
May, 2004 Camp 3 has been set at 7400. The group, which
did it, descend to the BC, and other group ascend to set CAmp 4.
a picture of Makalu, made by Simone Moro on May,4 from Baruntse
- look from the space
can see Himalaya in view, unable from the Earth. The astronavts
from the International Space Station made theese pictures - the
view from Tibet plateau to South. You can see Makalu (left) and
Everest (right), the North Face. Photo Credit: NASA. Zoom picture
And also Himalayan panorama is there.
April, 2004 Camp 3 hasn't set yet, the group 's working
on the route. It was snowing after 11 a.m. and it lasted till the
Alexey Bolotov from Jannu sends greetings to Kazakhstan guys and
wishes good weather and success.
April, 2004 Camp 1 and Camp 2 have been set. The first
group are climbing up now to set Camp 3.
first group climbed up to set CAmp 1. The group 2 will go upward
tomorrow - to carry loads and set Camp 2. (info from April, 20)
team arrived to the Makalu Base Camp (4800 m) by helicopter - two
days later than planned because of the strong wind April 14,15.
there are two Services expeditions at the bottom of Makalu: Central
Army Sport Club of Kazakhstan and British Servisces.
from BC:BRITISH SERVICES MAKALU EXPEDITION 2004
April, 2004 The team flew to Lukla.
April, 2004 Kathmandu, the briefing in Tourism Ministry
April, 2004 The team left for Nepal.
coach of the team - Ervand Iljinsky.
Terzyul (Ukraine) will climb togerther with the team
Novikov gives the CSKA flag to Ervand Iljinsky
Ervand Iljinsky and Generale Novikov
Brodsky gives the interview
Pivtsov, Alex Rudakov and Max Zhumayevв
Rychkov, Serguey Brodsky and Damir Molgachev