November-December 2003 news
traditional speed ascent to peak Amangeldy (3999 m)
near Almaty was organized by Central Sport Army Club
of Kazakhstan Republic and Rescue Center of Almaty.
This event on December 28, was devoted to the memory
of Anatoly Boukreev, the famous high-altitude climber
from Kazakhstan, who died December 25 1997 in avalanche
on Annapurna. The winner of
speed ascent became Denis Urubko. Congratulations
to Denis and all participants.
Valery Babanov and Yuri Koshelenko (Nuptse East climb)
- nominees of Piolet d'Or 2003.
December, 2003 The expedition of Russian team to the
Everest North Face will start in the
middle of February 2004. The best high-altitude climbers
(national combined team) will participate in this project.
It'll be the next big Russian project at Everest after
South-West Face Everest climb in 1982, which was the first
8000 climb for soviet climbers. In February- March athletes
are going to do two acclimatization climbs in Nepal, and
then move to Tibet for Everest climb. The expedition will
last 3,5 months. The head of the expedition - Victor Kozlov
(he organized the Middle Lhotse Expedition in 2001)
Volkov from Togliatti became the President
of Russian Mountaineering Federation.
November, 2003 Russian Adventure team: program
November, 2003 Nuptse
East: the third attempt Koshelenko
and Babanov summited
Nuptse East November, 2 and descended to the Base Camp
November, 4. Congratulations!
Aconcagua's peak conqured along a new route
Tomaz Humar and Ales Kozelj climbed new
route in the south face of Aconcagua.
December, 2003 Tomaz Humar: No Impossible
November, 2003 Thomas and Alex Huber
on Zodiac route, El Capitan (October,
Aconcagua's peak conqured along a new route Tomaz
Humar and Ales Kozelj climbed approximately 2.500 m high new
route in the south face of Aconcagua. They labeled it the most
difficult climbed route in the before mentioned face up to date.
The ascent took five days, another day was spent crossing the
peak and descending to the valley. They returned to Base camp
on December 23. “Of all my ascents, this was one of the most
difficult,” says Tomaz. “It has been six years since I’ve last
climbed roped up. The last person on the other end of my rope
was Johan (Janez Jeglic, Humar’s co-climber during the Nuptse
expedition, comm.) All I can say about Ales is this – a new
kitten with well sharpened claws is born.” (www.humar.com)
December, 2003 Tomaz Humar: No Impossible Ways
monographic edition of 208 pages and 209 photographs brings
descriptions of Humar's most important mountaineering ascents.
to the book were written by Reinhold Messner and Carlos Carsolio,
two of Humar's great friends and admirers.
a successful acclimatization ascent, Tomaz Humar and Ales Kozelj
find themselves standing beneath Aconcagua, the Andes' highest
peak. They are currently waiting for the appropriate weather
conditions, which would allow them
to start their ascent of Aconcagua's south face. (www.humar.com)