November-December 2003 news

29 December, 2003 The traditional speed ascent to peak Amangeldy (3999 m) near Almaty was organized by Central Sport Army Club of Kazakhstan Republic and Rescue Center of Almaty. This event on December 28, was devoted to the memory of Anatoly Boukreev, the famous high-altitude climber from Kazakhstan, who died December 25 1997 in avalanche on Annapurna. The winner of speed ascent became Denis Urubko. Congratulations to Denis and all participants. 24 December, 2003 Valery Babanov and Yuri Koshelenko (Nuptse East climb) - nominees of Piolet d'Or 2003. 9 December, 2003 The expedition of Russian team to the Everest North Face will start in the middle of February 2004. The best high-altitude climbers (national combined team) will participate in this project. It'll be the next big Russian project at Everest after South-West Face Everest climb in 1982, which was the first 8000 climb for soviet climbers. In February- March athletes are going to do two acclimatization climbs in Nepal, and then move to Tibet for Everest climb. The expedition will last 3,5 months. The head of the expedition - Victor Kozlov (he organized the Middle Lhotse Expedition in 2001) 9 December, 2003 Andrey Volkov from Togliatti became the President of Russian Mountaineering Federation. 17 November, 2003 Russian Adventure team: program "Everest 2004" 5 November, 2003 Nuptse East: the third attempt Koshelenko and Babanov summited Nuptse East November, 2 and descended to the Base Camp November, 4. Congratulations!

Mountaineering World's news 30 December, 2003 Aconcagua's peak conqured along a new route Tomaz Humar and Ales Kozelj climbed new route in the south face of Aconcagua. 24 December, 2003 Tomaz Humar: No Impossible Ways - new book 30 November, 2003 Thomas and Alex Huber on Zodiac route, El Capitan (October, 2003) Photogallery

30 December, 2003
Aconcagua's peak conqured along a new route Tomaz Humar and Ales Kozelj climbed approximately 2.500 m high new route in the south face of Aconcagua. They labeled it the most difficult climbed route in the before mentioned face up to date. The ascent took five days, another day was spent crossing the peak and descending to the valley. They returned to Base camp on December 23. “Of all my ascents, this was one of the most difficult,” says Tomaz. “It has been six years since I’ve last climbed roped up. The last person on the other end of my rope was Johan (Janez Jeglic, Humar’s co-climber during the Nuptse expedition, comm.) All I can say about Ales is this – a new kitten with well sharpened claws is born.” (www.humar.com)

24 December, 2003 Tomaz Humar: No Impossible Ways
This monographic edition of 208 pages and 209 photographs brings descriptions of Humar's most important mountaineering ascents. Introductions to the book were written by Reinhold Messner and Carlos Carsolio, two of Humar's great friends and admirers.

13. December 2003
Aconcagua. Following a successful acclimatization ascent, Tomaz Humar and Ales Kozelj find themselves standing beneath Aconcagua, the Andes' highest peak. They are currently waiting for the appropriate weather conditions, which would allow them
to start their ascent of Aconcagua's south face. (www.humar.com)