August 2004 news
members of complex expedition of Moscow Mountaineering
Federation and Sports Club of Moscow Aviation Institute
(?AI) summited Kongur (7719m) yesterday via new route.
August, 2004 Valery Shamalo
and Kirill Korabelnikov summited Kongur (7719 m) (new
route from the North) August, 9. Bonington climbed
Kongur in 1981, then there were 26 failed attempts...
Saint Petersburg team did the second climb.
Birthday to Vladimir Suviga - the climber from Central
Sport Club of Kazakhstan Army. Snow Leopard, he reached
the tops Communism, Lenin, Korzhenevskaya, PObeda
and Khan Tengri peaks in one season. He climbed K2
this summer, Everest in 1997, Manaslu in 1995, Dhaulagiri
in 1991 and did a lot of climbs in Pamir and Tien
Stena (Marble Wall), Tien Shan: Denis Urubko,
Serguey Samoilov and Gennady Durov climbed the new
route (5B Russian Grade). They reached the summit
yesterday, than spent the night at 5200.
August, 2004 Karly-Tau (5450 m),
Tien-Shan: climbers from "Khan Tengri" mountaineering
club (Almaty) and combined team from Yekaterinburg (Russia)
summited Karly-Tau July, 23 - the difficult technical
Mramornaya Stena (Marble Wall), Tien
Shan: the team of Central Sport Club of Kazakhstan Army
reached the top on August, 7 . They spent the night at
6100, and descended to base camp the day after. (message
from Denis Urubko)
Kyrgyzstan, Khan-Tengri: Russian rescue team (Ministry
of Emergency) have found bodies of two climbers, who died
in avalanche August, 5 at South Inylchek glacier. The
rescue is continuing.
In huge avalanche on Khan Tengri (Kyrgyzstan) yesterday
at 6-30 a.m. five Cheh climbers (Duskova Pavla, Duskova
Ludmila, Riha Pavel, Spicka Martin, Voska Petr) and Russian
climber Alexey Khramtsov died. Mrna Ales (Cheh) and Nedoboiko
Mikhail (Russia) are in hospital. Russians: Martyn Irina,
Myravjov Maxym and Ukrainians: Alexander Mjasnikov, Vjacheslav
Virich and Serguey Moskovichenko are missing.
rescue is continuing.
sinsere condolences to families and friends of died climbers...
August, 2004 K2: rescue team
are ascending to Camp3 - Japanese climbers hope to find
Serguey and Davoud
K2: Magic Line climbers called that Alexander
Gubaev (Bishkek,Kyrgyzstan) was on the Bottleneck at 11
AM July,28 where he met Inaki Ochoa, who was descending
from the summit. Alexander continued up. That was the
last time anybody have seen or heard from Alexander. Meanwhile,
Sergey Sokolov from Russia and Davoud Khadem Asl (Iran)
were in Camp 4 (7600). They wanted to wait for Alexander
and hoped that conditions would improve. August 1 they
were leaving Camp 4 and would try to reach camp 3. The
only climbers still in the Abruzzi Base Camp are members
of the Japanese expedition. Sergei and Davoud are still
high up on the mountain in hurricane force winds.
The member of the best team on K2 - Catalonian team
- Manel de la Matte passed away while descent on Magic
line in Camp 1
Jordi Corominas summited yesterday
about 12-00 p.m. local time after 21 hours ascent
(he started at 4 a.m.) without supplementary oxygen,
via Magic line. Then he
was going down to Camp 4 at Abruzzi Spur, were Japanese
team was waiting him. He reached it at 5 a.m. It was
his third night above 8000 m. After a hour of rest he
continued the descent amd reached Camp 3 at 10 a.m.
Jordi Corominas is acsending K2 alone, sinked in fresh
snow up to his waist. Oscar Cadiach and Corominas left
their tent at 8100m this morning at 4:00 am, Oscar Cadiach
would soon decided to turn around. At 2:00 pm, local
time, there were only 100 vertical meters between Jordi
and the summit. The weather remains good. Dosanko
Japanese expedition have just reached the summit Cesen
route. Corominas could climb back down to BC
along with them
Catalonian climbers Oscar Cadiach, Jordi Corominas reached
8300m yesterday., Manel de la Matta has decided to remain
in the tent at 8100. THey are attempting the first repetition
of the Magic Line, considered the most
difficult route on K2. ‘Valen’ Giro and Gulam, a high
altitude porter plan to reach Camp 3 at the Abruzzi
Route, to wait for the climbers in case they decide
to descend via the Normal route. They will descend through
the Abruzzi Spur only if the visibility is perfect.
Japanese climbers Yano Toshiaki (51), Seino Yoshiki
(42), Mochizuki Yasuhiko (44), and Kawashima Takashi
(44) along with Phura Chhere Sherpa (34) and Tika Ram
Gurung (29) reached the summit of K2 on Saturday August
07, at approximately 11:00 am, local time
August, 2004 Catalonian team continues to
climb Magic line at K2.
climbers and a sherpa from Kondo Kazuyoshi’s Japanese expedition
have reached C2 up the Abruzzi route on K2 to search for Davoud
and Sergey. Climbers Yano Toshiaki, Seino Yoshiki, Mochizuki
Yasuhiko and Kawashima Takashi, along with Phura Chhere Sherpa
are right now spending the night at Camp 2, after a difficult
battle with heavy snowfall and high winds on the way up.
rescue climbers plan to reach Camp 3 tomorrow or the day after,
but they will postpone the decision depending on weather and
snow conditions. After 10 days of precipitations, K2 is overloaded
with snow and risk of avalanche is very high: in the last hours
several avalanches have hit the Cessen route, Angelus Peak and
Broad Peak North slopes.
are going up tomorrow to gather tents and gear left there by
the climbers. One of the Balti porters will go to Camp 2, while
the other two intend to climb all the way up to Camp 3, if conditions
learning about the stranded climbers Sunday, the Japanese and
Magic Line Catalonian team never gave up hope on them. The climbers
radioed down to BC reporting that they were leaving Camp 4 and
would try descend to Camp3.
Magic Line and Japanese expedition attempted a rescue the same
day, but were forced back by a storm. Yesterday the wind seemed
to receed slightly, and they waited no more. They know however,
that the conditions are far from right and they are involved
in a very risky operation to save the missing climbers.
forecasts show a decrease in the wind for tomorrow morning,
as the jet stream is moving away from the K2 area. A ridge moves
in from Afghanistan giving mainly dry conditions over K2 during
a couple of trough will pass eastwards with probably quite a
lot of showers. In other words, condition may be slightly better
for a rescue attempt tomorrow, but the situation will deteoriate
again soon after.
the rescuers make it to camp 3, they will be able to check if
the missing climbers managed to get there. Possibilities are
scarce, though. Acording to the Magic Line team, weather conditions
have been really tough since Juy 28th, with 100km/h winds. The
route from Camp 4 to camp 3 is complicated. Climbers can easily
get lost in low visivility, as – according to Edurne Pasaban
- there are twists and turns and no fixed ropes - only bamboo
sticks likely been blown away by the wind.
K2: Catalonian team Oscar Cadiach, Jordi Corominas, Jordi Tosas,
Manel de la Matta and Valen Giro are attempting the first repetition
of the Magic Line, once described as suicidal by Reinhold Messner,
and considered the most difficult route on K2. They’ve made
it as high as C3, at 7500m, and now are in BC waiting for a
weather window to launch their summit bid. The Magic Boys were
celebrating the K2 anniversary - and focused their homage in
particular to a character of the story that, although he played
a fundamental role in K2's conquest, is rarely mentioned these
days: No other than Walter Bonatti is the center of their tribute.
ambitious Bonatti, an Alpine legend, stands out in the controversy
about the obscure events that took place during the night before
K2's summit was reached for the very first time.
was 24 when he joined Ardito Desio’s National Italian team to
K2. Not only the summit was on stake, but the pride of a whole
country struggling to find a first-line place in the history
of alpine adventures.
Aquille Compagnioni and Lino Lacedelli left their highest camp
on their summit bid, young Walter and Madhi, the only Balti
porter still capable of climbing high, was ordered to get them
some O2 bottles. Problem was that the high camp was not where
it was supposed to be, but slightly higher.
and Madhi arrived in the middle of the night and couldn’t see
the tents, and called out their mate’s names. A reply came;
to leave the bottles on the spot and return to lower camps.
they didn’t. According to Bonatti, since they were too exhausted
to move, the spent the night out in the snow. They survived
the night at 8000m, Madhi losing all his fingers to frostbite.
time after the expedition, the press accused Bonatti of trying
to steal the Oxygen to attempt the summit himself; he instead
accused Achille and Lino: “They left us out there to die.” Bonnati
was isolated for years, and his name is still somewhat of a
taboo when it comes to the -54 italian K2 expedition.
Bonatti kept on climbing, and became a living legend to several
generations of climbers around the world. Solo climbs, first
ascents, new technical routes all over the world, elegance in
the itineraries and methods, Bonatti proved without a shadow
of doubt that he was one of the best climbers of his time, if
not in all of climbing history.
the Magic Line team in their last dispatch: “Bonatti represents
the true spirit of Alpinism: Commitment, exposure, tenacity,
courage and self discipline. Those are precisely the values
that brought us to the Magic Line”.
the void from the mountains to find myself...”; those Bonatti’s
words have a special meaning to us now, after living face to
face with K2 for two months.”