(7719 m) by the new route (North Face)- Saint Petersburg Expedition
August , 2004
route (left) - the single successful attempt to this Mount.
- new route.
was one successful expedition (Chris Bonington, 1981)
and 26 unsuccessful attempts. We heard about Japanese team, ho summited
in 1989, but it wasn't confirmed.
route isn't very difficult technically, but the mount is surrounded
by some belts of ... icefalls and steep slopes. This had stopped
previous expeditions - all routes are very avalanche dangerous,
avalanches fall down and cross your way some times every day. In
addition, the weather in the region are bad almost all season -
stream winds blow when the sky's clean too.
set our base camp (3500) July, 10.
11 - Camp 1 (4750)
12 - climbed till 5250 and went down to BC
14 - up to 4750.
15 - the weather was worsened, our camp met the first avalanche
- we lost only one snowstep. e bagan to seach of it and the second
avalanche set off our tent...with our gear, food, gaz etc. - all
it came to bergs and fallen down along slopes. Alexey has lost his
jacket where his passport and back ticket were. We went down to
17 Our friends Latvian climbers came to BC. Then Moscow
team arrived too, and due to help all teams, which were at the bottom
of the route (gear and food) we could to continue our expedition.
21 Up to 6500 and back to 6000
22 Descent to BC.
29 up to 6800 and down to 5300
30 Descent to BC
5 Together with Latvian climbers: 5300
9 We started at 8-30 a.m. The strong wind. Alexey felt
soon (after 150 m of ascent) he frozen too, and turned back. It
became very difficult after 7400 - very steep snow slope, , the
weather worsened....avalanche danger became too hard. At 3 p.m.
local time the team summited Kongur (plus two Latvian climbers -
Oleg Silin and Valdas), made pictures
10 We were back to BC in late evening. Moscow team met
us at the glacier. THanks to all teams who were in BC: Moscow (led
by Yuri Khokhlov), Krasnoyarsk (led by Nickolay Zakharov), and Andrey
Labedev's THey are on the Mount yet. Good luck fot them!
will be later.
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